White port, once considered a secret of the wine trade, has seen sales grow by 50% in a decade. At half the strength of gin, vodka, or rum, its appealing apple, vanilla, and honey flavours coalesce with classic mixers while keeping the drinker even of keel for longer. The associations of Portugal have played a part in its ascent. According to Charlotte Symington of Graham’s, “the popularity of Portugal as a holiday destination has driven appetite.”
Chelsea’s Volta do Mar restaurant has turned over its terrace to celebrate Graham’s Blend Nº5. Designed by chef-partner, Almeida Da Silva, the signature spritz in which the white port stars makes for an energetic collaborator with Ibérico croquetes and bacalhau. ‘But it’s more than just a spritz,’ says the venue’s co-founder, Simon Mullins. ‘In a large stemmed goblet garnished with juliennes of fresh ginger, we combine shaken Graham’s Blend Nº5, ginger infused lemon and elderflower, with Aplauso spumate from Bairrada and soda.’
Available at Bar Douro’s branches at London Bridge and the City, which are characterised by Biro-blue azulejo tiles and sleek dining counters, Churchill’s aged white port is deployed in a more classic port and tonic. Says Max Graham, co-owner of Bar Douro, and a scion of the Churchill’s port house: ‘Our white port has a rich, rounded style with depth, standing up against Fever-Tree.’
And if you wish to raise a ‘portonic’ in the direction of the Dourofrom the comfort of your home, simply combine 50ml of Graham’s Blend Nº5 (£28.99, waitrose.com) and your preferred tonic in a big-bowled, ice-filled glass, adding a wheel of lemon, orange or grapefruit, and a few sprigs of mint. Saúde!
