I’ve been writing about Cardiff and Wales’ hospitality industry for over a decade and in that time it’s fair to say that the independent restaurant scene has flourished.
As well as acclaimed destination restaurants, the range of more affordable neighbourhood eateries and street food venues continues to get better every year. Award-winning Korean street food , high end southern Indian cooking and Spanish grill houses have all made their mark in towns and cities across the country.
It especially feels like the pace of improvement has picked up in the last few years with a number of ambitious young chefs who’ve worked in some of the UK’s top kitchens taking the leap and opening their own restaurants.
Read more: The 50 best restaurants in Wales in 2022
In Aberystwyth, SY23 is headed up by Nathan Davies, a previous sous chef at Ynyshir, whilst in Conwy, Nick Rudge, who spent seven years working with Heston Blumenthal, has recently opened the Jackdaw. Back in Cardiff, Lee Skeet, Tommy Heaney and Tom Simmons, among others, have all had a big impact on the city’s restaurant scene over the last few years.
So, for Peter Harden, the co-founder of Harden’s Guide to say that “for a gastronomic treat, head for the countryside” in the announcement of their top 100 UK restaurants is more than a little bit unfair and in my opinion shows a lack of understanding of the hospitality scene in Wales.
Harden adds, “Ambitious city dining has never been a tradition here – partly because high-quality country-house alternatives are relatively close at hand.”
Whilst there may not have been a history of top urban-based restaurants in Wales, it’s most definitely not the case nowadays.
In Cardiff, Aberystwyth, Menai Bridge, Penarth, Hay-on-Wye, Abergavenny and Conwy, to name just a few towns and cities, some of the most exciting chefs in the country are cooking at the highest level.
I’m not the only one who thinks so as they've been recognised by national restaurant critics and recommended in that significantly more well-known restaurant publication, the Michelin Guide.
Peter Harden singles out Cardiff in particular for criticism, with no restaurants in their top 100, to inform us that “there’s nothing to stop a really talented young chef making a go of it in Cardiff".
I wonder what Cardiff’s crop of talented young chefs would make of this particular comment? Perhaps they should make more of a go of it?
Whilst this may well just be an ill-considered comment about the state of dining out in Wales’ urban areas, I think it does a disservice to the Welsh hospitality industry, which has had enough curve balls thrown at it over the last few years.
As a start, here are some of Wales’ ‘ambitious’ urban restaurants where I’d gladly head for a ‘gastronomic treat’ any day of the week.
Asador 44 - Cardiff
Owned by the highly regarded 44 Group, this Spanish restaurant specialises in sharing cuts of meat and whole fish cooked over charcoal. Daily Mail critic Tom Parker Bowles described his meal there as “a lunch drenched in love, lust and unfiltered Spanish succour. It could be my restaurant of the year”.
Sosban and the Old Butchers - Menai Bridge, Anglesey
Based in the Anglesey town of Menai Bridge, the Michelin-starred Sosban and the Old Butchers is situated in a former butcher's shop. It was one of three Welsh restaurants to be named among the world’s best in La Liste 2022.
Cora - Cardiff
Cora is the first permanent restaurant from Lee Skeet, a chef who trained under Gordon Ramsay and Marcus Wareing and who was previously head chef at the now closed Michelin-starred Hedone in London. Only open during the week, Lee cooks single-handedly and serves a seafood focused menu to just 12 guests each service
SY23 - Aberystwyth
Run by Nathan Davies, one of the stars of last year’s Great British Menu and a former sous chef at Ynyshir, SY23 serves locally sourced meat and fish cooked over charcoal.
Heaneys - Cardiff
Since opening in 2018, Heaney’s has established itself as one of Cardiff’s most highly regarded restaurants. A previous finalist on Great British Menu, Tommy Heaney’s pared back cooking focuses on precisely cooked fish and barbecued meat.
Bryn Williams at Porth Eirias - Colwyn Bay
Bryn Williams’ Colwyn Bay restaurant is one of only two in Wales to hold a Michelin Bib Gourmand. Located a stone's throw from the stunning beach of Porth Eirias, the menu is full of Welsh produce, sourced as locally as possible.
Thomas by Tom Simmons - Cardiff
Since opening in February 2020, Pembrokeshire-born Tom Simmons has made his mark as one of the best chefs in Cardiff at his eponymous restaurant Thomas by Tom Simmons. In 2021 it was named one of the best new openings in the UK by the Good Food Guide
The Gaff - Abergavenny
Located in the heart of Abergavenny, The Gaff serves creative small plates with influences drawn from across the globe. Chef owner Dan Saunders was a former head chef at the Michelin-starred Walnut Tree so he’s learnt from one of the country’s best.
Home by James Sommerin - Penarth
Home is the latest restaurant from the acclaimed chef James Sommerin and his family. Late last year it was added to the Michelin Guide just four months after opening.
The Jackdaw - Conwy
Located in the medieval town of Conwy, the Jackdaw is the debut restaurant from chef owner Nick Rudge, who worked alongside Heston Blumenthal at the three Michelin-starred Fat Duck for seven years.
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