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Evening Standard
Evening Standard
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Emma Magnus

Why I live in South Tottenham: chef James Cochran on why his diverse north London area rivals Peckham

I live in South Tottenham, just off West Green Road. We call it SoTo. Originally, I was a die-hard south-east Londoner until I met my fiancée, who converted me to Tottenham. We moved here in 2021 and I’m now looking to buy here.

I was wary about moving north because if I have kids, I want them to have a connection to their West Indian and African roots. But I kid you not: West Green Road is like Peckham before it got the Overground. I think it’s now the most desirable place to live in London.

There’s a sense of pride and a sense of community in the area. I’m close to my restaurants. And I’m close to Spurs.

Eating and drinking

Cochran’s boozer of choice (Adrian Lourie)

The Salisbury on Green Lanes is an absolute banger. It’s a huge 19th-century pub with lots of original parts. I’m actually thinking about getting married there.

The Palm on Philip Lane is owned by a local couple I’ve got friendly with. There’s a pub called the High Cross on the High Road, where they turned disused toilets into a craft beer shop. KK McCools on West Green Road is an old Irish proper boozer. For pizza, True Craft, on West Green Road, is quality.

There’s loads of African patty shops, bakeries, hard dough and restaurants on West Green Road. My mate Jack and I did a patty tour and we both came to the conclusion that Tottenham Town Bakery was the best patty shop in the area.

The best patty shop in the area, after extensive research (Andrei Cislariu)

Umut 2000 on Green Lanes is one of the best Turkish joints. It’s proper authentic, home-cooked food. On a Friday night when the missus finishes work, we’ll go to the Palm and Salisbury for a couple of pints, and then to Umut 2000. And then maybe back to the Salisbury.

Where I work out

I usually go for a long walk up the old railway line, the Parkland Walk, up to Highgate and through Alexandra Palace.

I go to Tottenham Green leisure centre on Philip Lane to swim, and there’s also tennis courts in Downhills Park.

To commune with nature

Downhills Park is great. At Tottenham Green, they ran a market on the second Sunday of every month. It’s nice to have the whole local community come in - it’s a melting pot, with the young professionals and the golden oldies drinking their K Cider. It’s a nice buzz.

Tottenham Green (Andrei Cislariu)

You can walk the River Lea to Walthamstow Wetlands. It feels like you’re not in London. You’ve got Hackney Marshes the opposite way. The Riverside Café is a proper community café. I like to go there, show up to the wetlands and do a loop.

Grocery shopping

We tend to shop as local as we can. I go to Green Lanes and West Green Road for my plantain, green bananas, cassava, scotch bonnet and breadfruit. I like to peel breadfruit back, fry it and have it with hot sauce, like a glorified chip. Tropical Foods on West Green Road is one of the best places to go.

There are loads of Turkish grocers, but Yasar Halim on Green Lanes is a favourite.

Yasar Halim grocery store on Green Lanes (Andrei Cislariu)

For a culture fix

There’s Omega Works warehouses on Hermitage Road that they’re trying to turn into housing. Book clubs, etc. aren’t really my vibe. I’m more out socialising with a drinking or eating aspect.

I’m a huge Spurs fan so it’s nice to be close to the stadium. I like to go to Rowans Bowl after a game, that’s our ritual. We can drown our sorrows if we lose.

“West Green Road is like Peckham before it got the Overground,” says Cochran (Andrei Cislariu)

Getting around

I cycle a lot, but the transport links are amazing. There’s a bus that goes one minute from my house and drops me outside my work. That’s insane.

Seven Sisters has the Victoria line, which gets you into central in 10 minutes, or you can get the Overground to Stoke Newington or Liverpool Street, which takes 15-20 minutes, or further north to Edmonton.

Dream street

Dongola Road, Cochran’s dream street (Andrei Cislariu)

Dongola Road. It’s got beautiful, old Victorian houses and is a 10-minute walk to everything you need. Five minutes the other way, you’re in Downhills Park.

Something you only see in South Tottenham

The diversity, it’s a melting pot of different cultures. You get that all over London, but I feel at home here and part of the community.

James Cochran at home with his dog (Daniel Hambury/Stella Pictures L)

What’s the catch?

We’re missing a decent fried chicken spot. There could be more on the food scene here, although I think that’s happening. I wouldn’t want to change it - I’d want to keep the authenticity.

In three words

Diverse. Raw. Educational.

Two-times Great British Menu winner James Cochran runs Around The Cluck, Valderrama’s and 12:51, where he is the head chef. He will appear alongside his signature fried chicken burger at the Margarita Rumble festival on July 22 in Hackney Wick (@chefjamescochran; londonmargaritarumble.com).

Schools

There are 20 primary schools in the area rated as good or outstanding, including Harris Primary Academy, Woodberry Down Community Primary School and The Willow Primary School.

For secondaries, The Grove, Park View and Skinners’ Academy are among the top choices nearby.

What it costs

Buying in South Tottenham

Average flat price: £383,790

Average house price: £713,780

Renting in South Tottenham

Average flat price, pcm: £1,660

Average house price, pcm: £2,710

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