We're joined for afternoon tea by a warthog munching on grass fewer than two metres from the patio of our double-storey cottage on the fringes of the Zambezi National Park in Zimbabwe. He lifts his head to glance, then carries on with his business. It's not the first time he's seen giddy tourists eager to capture the intimate encounter on their phones, and it won’t be the last.
Our week-long adventure to explore the waterfall from both sides of the border starts at Victoria Falls Safari Lodge, a locally owned eco-lodge overlooking a vast expanse of acacia trees and mopane woodlands that provides a safe space for elephants, impalas, buffaloes, and zebras to roam freely, uninterrupted by fences or barbed wires.
Africa Albida Tourism, the company that owns the lodge, was the first organisation to hire an environmental architect and built the entire property around existing trees rather than uproot them. Every structure is constructed using wood sourced locally and has thatched roofs to replicate traditional Zimbabwean homes – the idea is to blend into nature rather than stand out.
The main socialising area is a large treehouse-like building comprising four floors. It's home to MaKuwa-Kuwa, the largest restaurant on the property and the aptly named Buffalo Bar – both perfectly positioned in front of a large waterhole called Boma, a hub of activity, with herds of elephants and buffalo, all being scared away by two territorial crocodiles. This is African wildlife at its best – and we have front-row seats.
Scenes so lovely they must have been gazed upon by angels in their flight
The following morning, we drive a short distance to the entrance of Victoria Falls. Our guide refers to it by its traditional Lozi language name, Mosi-oa-Tunya, or 'the smoke that thunders', before explaining how David Livingstone came to name it after Queen Victoria in 1855. So impressed was Livingstone by what he saw, he described it in his journal as "scenes so lovely they must have been gazed upon by angels in their flight”.
Hunters, missionaries, and explorers were inspired by Livingstone's description of Victoria Falls and, by 1898, a small settlement of white pioneers had sprung up on the banks of the Zambezi. Today, the falls on the border between Zimbabwe and Zambia are one of the Seven Natural Wonders of the World and a bucket-list experience for travellers who contribute millions to the economy of both nations.
Street vendors, souvenir shop owners and traditional dancers are the first to greet excited tourists stepping off cars and buses holding raincoats and ponchos. Across the road, an unassuming entrance with a large rock saying 'Welcome to Mosi-oa-Tunya Victoria Falls' cements the point of arrival, along with a small ticket counter and one turnstile, the gateway to Victoria Falls National Park.
Once inside, a shaded paved path guides us to Devil's Cataract, the first of 16 viewing points on the Zimbabwean side, which owns 75 per cent of the falls. As we progress, we see glimpses of the 1,700-metre-wide spectacle in sections, some with rainbows over it, others covered in mist thrown back up from the gushing water.
When we visited in May, just after the rainy season, the water levels were at their highest. Such is the force of the falls that the spray from its longest drop of 108 metres can be seen 30km away in Zambia and 50km from Bulawayo Road in Zimbabwe.
As we reach the penultimate point, aptly called Danger Point for its slippery rocks, we are soaked to the bone and partially deaf from the thunder of the falls. The experience of walking along the edge of the cliff, coming face to face with the power of nature, is a remarkable once-in-a-lifetime experience that no picture can do justice to.
The birds turn into silhouettes that disappear with the setting sun
A less arduous way of enjoying the river is to take a cruise. The waters that flow along the Zambezi river pass five countries before meeting the Indian Ocean in Mozambique. While it's not possible to make the whole 2,200-mile journey, there are sections of the river that are soothing to the soul and offer an opportunity to observe wildlife at a pace alien to city dwellers.
On our relaxed evening excursion, we made ourselves comfortable on the top deck of our boat, enjoying the stillness of nature and witnessing the golden rays of the setting sun. Watered with our favourite tipple and fed, we drifted along the mighty river, photographing birds, kingdoms of hippos and elephants that came to the banks to cool off.
Every afternoon at 1pm, the lodge hosts a vulture culture show, to spread the word about the ecological importance of these endangered birds. Sitting inside a viewing gallery in the bush, we watch hundreds of white-headed, hooded, lappet-faced and white-backed vultures pounce on cuts of leftover meat. Some of them linger around well into the evening, gradually turning into silhouettes that disappear with the setting sun.
Our final day at Victoria Falls Safari Lodge is a leisurely one. The newly opened spa, with its hut-shaped treatment rooms, offers the perfect hideaway from large crowds. A welcoming reception area, with a small swimming pool and sun loungers, is a sanctuary of peace that we have all to ourselves.
After a sumptuous breakfast at the Members’ Club restaurant, it's time to bid farewell to Zimbabwe and head across the Victoria Falls Railway Bridge into Zambia. At the tiny immigration office, things move swiftly for tourists, locals seeking a day pass, and business owners transporting vegetables to their neighbours. We drive straight through the bustling town of Livingstone to Tongabezi, an intimate luxury camp 12km upstream from the falls.
It's impossible to talk about the story of Tongabezi without mentioning the love affair between Zambia and its two founders, Benjamin Parker and William Ruck Keene. The adventurous duo was canoeing from the falls when they saw a plot of land on the curve of the riverbank and thought it would be the perfect place to start their dream project in their favourite country. What began in 1990 as a few tents with bucket showers is today one of the finest safari lodges in the world.
A cheerful butler greets us, then guides us along the cliff to our unusual accommodation – there are no doors, windows, or walls. This is the Tree House, not as one might fear a glamper's refuge but a five-star suite with all the trimmings; there are sun loungers on a private deck, a breakfast area, an open shower, and a freestanding bathtub looking out to the most serene views. Three trunks of ebonies shoot out of the floor and up to its ceiling like a pillar holding the room in place.
All of Tongabezi's 12 cottages and homes overlook its tranquil waters, and many come with pools. However, the Tree House has the edge over them all, not just in concept but also with its views. The absence of windows means guests can enjoy the Zambezi from every corner of the West Africa-inspired suite. A king-size bed, protected by a mosquito net, hugs a large basalt rock – a reminder of the room being in sync with its surroundings.
After a quick check-in, we head off for a romantic lunch aboard an electric dhow (sailing boat). The breeze is perfect, the sky clear, and there isn't another soul on this blissfully secluded part of the river. A three-course lunch follows, with a fresh garden salad, chicken skewers and a feature-light mousse. Most herbs, seasonal vegetables and fruits used in the kitchen come from their own garden, run by a dedicated team of farmers.
Guests living here are encouraged to learn about and visit the environmental and community initiatives supported by Tongabezi, including a visit to the school next door started by Parker's wife, Vanessa. Tujatane, which means "Let Us All Hold Hands Together", opened its doors in 1996 with 15 local children and today provides free education to more than 300, including the kids of employees of Tongabezi.
Around 25 minutes from the lodge, another community project, Mukuni Community Farm, encourages locals to be more financially independent by learning how to farm. The initiative is run jointly between the lodge and the community to promote food sustainability and educate locals on agricultural practices, including how to make natural fertilisers. The produce they grow is used to feed their households and can sold in markets to generate alternative means of income.
Like community spirit, adventure too runs deep in the DNA of Tongabezi. Businessmen Ben and Will took over an island perched on the edge of Mosi-oa-Tunya and called it Livingstone Island, because this is where the Scotsman first laid eyes on the falls. The tiny isle, with no inhabitants, is now the stopover point for Angel's and Devil's Pools, the most extreme infinity pools in the world, and both naturally eroded into the landscape.
A quick trip by speed boat with a safety briefing later, we are treading on slippery black rocks to the edge of Angel's Pool. Terrified but curious, we queue as the guide calls us one after another to lie on a flattish surface near the drop. One guide holds our legs tight while the other takes pictures – because, really, we are all here for the photos. Snap, snap, snap, the session lasts a few minutes then we move to a safer corner from where the waterfall with a rainbow looks more mystical than scary.
Back at the lodge, the pace couldn't be more different. Dressed for the evening, we are escorted for a romantic dinner on a floating pontoon away from the property. The stillness of the water, the hues of the sunset, the seclusion, and the star-studded skies; this is the definition of perfection.
The only way to see the sheer magnitude of Victoria Falls is from the air, so that's where we head the next day. While a helicopter ride over a natural wonder may seem like a novelty in most places, it's part of most itineraries in Zimbabwe and Zambia – to the point where the skies above Victoria Falls are rarely silent.
Our pilot flies us over the winding Zambezi before circling above the curtain of Mosi-oa-Tunya. The spray from the crashing water looks like a white cloud from the skies, making the sight even more magical. Also visible are the eight previous locations of the falls shaped in zigzags from the river working its way back upstream. But the real wow moment comes when we fly inside Batoka Gorge at stomach-turning speed, at times just metres away from the water – or, at least, it felt like it.
With our adventure quota well and truly used up, it's time to check into the Royal Livingstone, a historic luxury hotel a stone's throw from the falls. With period photographs, ironwork light fixtures, and wooden overhead fans, the open reception screams colonial. Every nook and cranny is designed to transport you to the Livingstone era, and it does so with great success.
The pool, which overlooks the spray, is at the heart of the property. Its turquoise water looks inviting from the verandas of every restaurant and bar on the property, of which there are many. Don't expect privacy, though, as zebras, impalas and giraffes all roam freely in the manicured lawns surrounding the pool.
Most of the 173 rooms are spread across various two-storey blocks that hug the riverbank. Our ground-floor suite is newly refurbished in a style that marries modern with old-age charm. Beautiful French doors open out to the garden – a view enjoyed from a random bathtub installed in between the bed and the living room.
There is a lot more to Livingstone than the falls, though. It's a city famed for its museums, markets and nightlife that would put London's 24-hour capital reputation to shame. In the heart of Old Town, Livingstone Museum is Zambia's oldest and largest museum. The Spanish American-inspired building, with a large clock tower, holds records of the history of Zambia, from its origins to the colonial era.
A short walk from the museum, Mukuni Park Curio Market is a space designed for local artisans to showcase their handicrafts. Intrepid travellers may want to explore the lesser-visited Railway & Gateway Jewish Museum, which offers an insight into Livingstone's trading past and a peek into the Jewish community who settled here in the 1890s after fleeing persecution from Lithuania.
Livingstone, like many colonial cities, was marred by segregation and racism. Maramba, one of the first African townships built for workers, is well worth a visit to experience true Zambian life. The market is a focal point that brings together buyers, sellers, and idlers. Among clothes, fruit, as well as curios and knick-knacks, we find herbalist stalls claiming to cure everything, from illness to infertility.
It's only fitting to end our adventure where we started so, on our final morning, we walk to the falls (Royal Livingstone guests get free access to the park) and enjoy it from the Zambian side. Soaked and partially deaf, we stare at the curtain in amazement, just like we did the first time a week ago.
Information:
Victoria Falls Safari Suites consist of 2 and three bedroom units. 2-bedroom suites cost £670 in green season and £750 in high season on a bed and breakfast basis.
An all-inclusive stay at the Tongabezi - Green Safari Tree House start from £1800 per night.
Livingstone Junior Suites at the Royal Livingstone by Anantara start from £850 per night, including breakfast.
For more information on what to see and do in Zambia, visit zambia.travel
