WHERE TO DRINK
There’s certainly no shortage of watering holes across Belgium. Known for its long history of brewing, you can find a beer house on every corner — try Dulle Griet in Ghent for the biggest selection of beer in the city (also known as ‘the shoe bar’ as you have to leave one shoe as a deposit when ordering its famous yard of beer).
For an after-hours nightcap, wander along to Hotsy Totsy, where live jazz and a 5am closing time promise to sweeten your evening considerably. In Bruges, if sipping on an ale isn’t your thing, take to The Old Chocolate House for a velvety, make-your-own hot chocolate that will sit as great on your feed as it does on your taste buds.
WHERE TO SHOP
Ghent is a hub for cool, independent boutiques, but pay careful attention to their limited opening hours. Visit Helen B & Vrienden for an array of illustrated ceramics and prints, and bakery Alice for its candy-pink interior (a Wes Anderson fan’s paradise).
Take to the quiet side streets to find Shelter, which is less charity shop and more mecca for the streetwear aficionado. In Bruges, Dille & Kamille has the best homeware on offer — bring an extra suitcase to fill with its Labour and Wait-esque pieces.
WHERE TO STAY
Head to central Bruges for the Rococo-decorated Maison le Dragon, where old mingles with new. Its step-gabled façade houses 18th-century floor-to-ceiling murals, with rooms modern enough to be supremely cosy (hello, ensuite Jacuzzi).
Ghent’s 1898 The Post is where slick city-dweller meets Gothic antique fanatic, with spiral staircases leading to slick cocktail bars and white marble bathrooms. (maisonledragon.be; zannierhotels.com)
WHAT TO DO
Climb the thigh burn-inducing steps of the Belfry of Bruges to pay homage to Brendan Gleeson and Colin Farrell’s famous cinematic getaway (and to get the best view of the city). Rest weary limbs at the brewery Bourgogne des Flandres, where a tour ends with a canal-side frothy pint. Fill your culture boots with a visit to the renowned Adoration Of The Mystic Lamb in Ghent’s St Bavo’s Cathedral: 12 painted panels, one very famous sheep.
WHERE TO EAT
For a traditional Flemish feast, try for a table at Bruges’ Gran Caffee De Passage, where the portion sizes command both fear and respect. Head to That’s Toast in the morning for its resplendent brunch menu, then board a quick train to visit Ghent’s Frituur Bij Filip for some hole-in-the-wall frite goodness in the afternoon. Prep your stomach for evening beers with a trip to Otomat where experimental pizza toppings include a full plate of nachos and a chicken madras. Don’t knock it until you try it...
