The picturesque beaches at Ahangama, Sri Lanka, are best reached by TukTuk
(Picture: Unsplash)Sri Lanka is well known for its spectacular inland hills, jungles, and tea plantations, but its south coast is also now teeming with up-and-coming places to visit, stay and dine at.
The trip along the coastline from Hiriketiya to Ahangama is well worth it for secret beaches, surfing and yoga spots, incredible wildlife and burning sunsets (best enjoyed with Arrack Attack cocktails).
Here’s what to eat, see and do on Sri Lanka’s south coast.
Stay
New to the scene, Mond is based in Hiriketiya. It’s a guest house where you can book to stay in comfortable and modern rooms, but it’s brunch that everyone heads here for. Be sure to try the Sri Lankan omelette served with pol roti and gotukola sambol washed down with excellent Lassis. From the terrace overlooking the ocean, keep an eye out for monkeys patrolling the telephone wires on the road leading up to the property.
Also new to the area is Palm, nestled within paddy fields near Ahangama, which boasts a small number of A-frame cabanas, as well as larger suite properties complete with outdoor showers and superior king-sized beds. Flanked by palm trees and strutting peacocks, the property is the place to stay, if you can nab a room.
Emily Dobbs (famed for her Weligama cookery book) has created the delicious food menu. Highlights include hoppers and egg curry for breakfast, chapatti morning roll, rotti with homemade passionfruit jam and juices which change daily. Be sure to try the crab curry and locally made salt and cashew ice cream for dinner.
For insane pools and jaw-dropping views, you can’t get much better than Cape Weligama, a luxury clifftop hotel which boasts one of the best locations on the coast. Enjoy sundowners from the hotel’s moon crescent-shaped infinity pool that looks over the coastline. Meanwhile, slightly inland from Weligama, Malabar Hills sits atop a mountain surrounded by paddy fields. Eight years in the making, the hotel has around 13 suites, each of which have their own pools (casual), but it’s the views across the jungle below that are truly magical.
Food & Drink
Sri Lanka has one of the most exquisite cuisines in the world and is renowned for its rich vegetable curries and exceptional use of coconut. While luxury hotels tend to cater more for western tastes, the best food is of course always found at local hot spots. Try The Garlic Café (Hiri), a charming outdoor restaurant that serves an all you can eat vegetarian buffet. Ask for a table where you can keep a close eye on the curries being restocked, everyone watches the buffet like hawks to load up on hot papadums, okra and sambal.
If you are further down the coast, be sure to try Mr Sunnils on the beach, open only during daytime hours – it’s brilliant for a curry breakfast (try the daily dahl). Nearby you also have Soul and Surf which has excellent drop-in yoga classes and serves plates that include loaded chick pea fries with fried curry leaves and jungle salads, all made from the day’s local greens from the market.
For vegans, do plan a trip to Kola on Lake Koggala (their cauliflower fritters are the best for miles). It’s the perfect pitstop for a refuel after doing a lake tour – look out for giant bats, water monitors and crocodiles while you’re at it.
The Lighthouse in Ahangama is everyone’s favourite for sunset views. Up your step count to reach the top and watch the sun go down over the ocean on one side and the jungle on the other. Utter bliss.
See & do
Sri Lanka is a mecca for surfers, but if swimming is more your thing head to Dikwella and Secret Beach (ask your TukTuk to take you to the Hotel Academy and walk down a canal until you hit the beach). Both are worth bringing a snorkel for as you’ll be swimming with huge shoals of fish. Remember your beach towel, water bottle and be aware of the currents which are strong – there are no lifeguards.
Dikwella has a few beach shacks that also serve fresh watermelon juice, king coconuts, and it’s usually the owners’ mothers who are cooking up lunch (try the local jumbo prawns with curry leaves).
Most visitors head straight for the beach or the hills, but culture vultures mustn’t miss the opportunity to learn about Sri Lanka’s rich history at the traditional museums in cities such as Galle and Colombo. For art and design fans meanwhile, pre-book visits to Lunuganga or Number 11, houses and gardens designed by the renowned architect Geoffrey Bawa — you can even book rooms to stay at some of the properties.
