Say “Jagshemash” to Kazakhstan’s largest city, Almaty — the capital until it was usurped by Astana in 1997. What’s in a name? Older readers will remember this city as Alma Ata, the more Russian moniker it held until 1993 (oh, and even Astana has just been changed to Nur-Sultan, the name of the former dictator — you can still see posters of him up around Almaty).
The Russian influence is still strong here (Kazakhstan was part of the Russian empire from the 1800s then the USSR in the 1900s), and there are thousands of Russian citizens, Russian architecture and the Russian language predominates.
The Soviet stylings of Republic Square (formerly Brezhnev Square) pit brutalist buildings against statues of Kazakh warriors and kitsch presidential palaces that are lit up at night. The square has seen everything from tank parades to speeches and protests — today’s capitalist coup de grace is the mall being dug out under it, which opens next year.
Almaty got a huge tidy-up when Kazakhstan hosted Expo 2017 and new “walking streets”, as they’re cutely known here, were created, such as Panfilov Street, lined with fountains, benches and greenery. Jugglers, buskers and flower sellers come out on warm evenings and locals love to stroll between cafés and restaurants. The Tian Shan Mountains rise spectacularly above the city and everything gently slopes up towards them.
Do
You can get straight into the mountains in the Ile Alatau National Park, where there are hiking trails unofficially policed by bears and snow leopards. The Shymbulak ski resort does a roaring trade in the winter. If you’re feeling lazier, a cable car runs up to Kok Tobe Hill, where there are city views and the beefy behemoth of the Almaty TV Tower, which looms over everything.
The city itself is unbelievably green, with trees and pocket parks all over. The Botanical Garden dates from the Thirties and features many local landscapes and plants. If you love a left-field museum, the Museum of Folk Music Instruments might be right up your street. Pinta is the most fun bar in town, where locals drink beer, smoke, and dance in the shadow of the Hotel Kazakhstan.
Eat
Afisha is a buzzy spot in the centre of town. The mushroom risotto is moreish and comes with a view of the Stalinist State Opera House, opposite the terrace. Vista at the Ritz Carlton has panoramic views over the city and the mountains, which will help you get your bearings. It’s inside one of the tallest buildings in Almaty and the lunch includes local kebab specialities and a dainty table of pretty patisserie to round things off.
Almaty’s gourmet pick for a special night out is Seven — where you’ll be serenaded by piano and violin versions of Dua Lipa hits as you enjoy wacky amuse-bouches served on fake tree trunks and elevated Kazakh dishes like slow roast lamb shoulder with pearl barley. You can even try an OK bottle of Kazakh wine here, Ak Bastau, from the Assa Valley, just outside Almaty.
Stay
The Intercontinental Almaty has the perfect location, next to plenty of sights such as Republic Square, in the foothills of those mountains.
Go
Air Baltic flies twice weekly from London Gatwick to Almaty (airbaltic.com), £165 return.
