You know the school holidays have begun when it starts to rain in Cornwall. Kernow in the sun is close to perfection; in bad weather it’s best to remind yourself that this is what’s keeping things green and beautiful. But whether it’s pelting down, windy or just a mild case of mizzle (the Cornish name for mist + drizzle), there are options. Here’s where to go.
Go underground
To live all your Poldark fantasies, there’s the nattily named Poldark Mine near Helston – a complete tin mine dating back to pre-Roman times that’s open for underground tours of its 18th century mine workings.
Up in the north on Bodmin Moor, there’s Carnglaze Caverns, a former slate mine which offers self-guided underground tours of its three huge caverns (quarries) and a turquoise subterranean lake.
Walk in a biome
There’s a walk down from the car park to navigate first, but most of the action at the Eden Project takes place in the giant biomes, so you can remind yourself that you’re on holiday as you step into the Mediterranean area and the tropical rainforest. The education centre is also indoors.
Take in some art
Tate St Ives is the Tate, on a beach, so there’s little that can go wrong. What’s more, it’s very child friendly, with activities for the kids and hints on getting them into art – meaning you might find the rain inspires the next Tracey Emin. While you’re in St Ives, don’t miss the Barbara Hepworth Museum, either – there’s an indoor collection as well as the sculpture garden outside.
Go to a vintage cinema
The Regal in Wadebridge has been going for 87 years, while Truro’s The Plaza opened in 1936. Don’t worry, they’ve both been upgraded – and show a good range of films, from blockbusters to live feeds from London theatres. Hall for Cornwall has a good programme of live entertainment, too.
Smell the coffee
Cornwall has a solid coffee scene, with local roasters Origin leading the pack (it has an outlet in Shoreditch – surely the ultimate accolade). Relish in Wadebridge is one of the best places in the county for coffee, and 108 in Truro is also fantastic.
Get underwater
Newquay’s Blue Reef Aquarium has everything from things you’ll find in Cornish waters to more exotic animals like giant loggerhead turtles, reef sharks and pufferfish. Its beachside location means that if the sun makes a sudden showing, you can pop straight out.
Go to a museum
Even if you’re not museum types, the National Maritime Museum Cornwall in Falmouth is actually worth a visit. Located on the world’s third-largest deepwater harbour, it starts with a local focus before broadening out into the UK’s seafaring history. Right now, it’s got an exhibition on tattoos, running until January 2018. For something a little darker, try Bodmin Jail, which closed in 1927 and is now a somewhat spooky museum. Do you like stories of hangings and walking past dark cells? If so, this is definitely one for you. And for unreconstructed geeks, there’s the Telegraph Museum in Porthcurno, located at the site of the first undersea cable which was laid in 1870. There are Second World War tunnels to explore, too.
Hit the waves
Because although you may not be able to soak up the sun in the rain, a dose of mizzle can make surfing rather more atmospheric. It’s probably not the ideal way for beginners to learn, however – and always check that the conditions are safe (a plain red flag means do not enter the water). Otherwise, Cornwall’s only Flowrider wave simulator is outside at Retallack Resort near St Columb.
Go to the pub
Cornwall does a fine line in atmospheric pubs. Try the Turk’s Head and Admiral Benbow in Penzance, the Blue Anchor in Helston, the Tinner’s Arms in Zennor, and The Old Inn in St Breward on Bodmin Moor (whose Sunday carvery is the best escape from the rain). The Watering Hole in Perranporth is actually on the beach – so if you can make the walk over there, you can get sea views despite the weather.
Have a cream tea with a view
There are few better excuses for cake than bad weather, but if you combine cake with a view, you get the best of both (sugary, vacationy) worlds. Top of the list is Boscastle Farm Shop, perched on the headland north of Boscastle, with peerless views of the coastline from its floor-to-ceiling windows. Overlooking the cliffs around Mawgan Porth are two hotels that serve good cream teas – The Scarlet, for adults only, and Bedruthan Hotel & Spa, which is almost exclusively for families – while the Carlyon Bay Hotel near St Austell has fantastic views from its tea room – although it attracts an older clientele. In St Mawes, Tresanton serves cream teas in the bar and restaurant overlooking the water.
Near Wadebridge, Strong Adolfos’ cake game is indeed strong and the views of surrounding fields are pretty if not iconic. The same goes for Trevathan Farm Shop near Port Isaac.
