The last few seasons have seen what some might call New York Fashion Week’s ‘glow up’. After a few slow, post-pandemic outings that left seasoned editors grumbling at the sparse line-up and lack of well-known designers, there have been more new names on the schedule than ever before, as well as a steady stream of international guest appearances and the blockbuster parties that come with them. This season is no different, with Off-White shifting from Paris to New York, an off-schedule Alaïa special, a visit from Stockholm’s Toteme, and the first-ever runway show from Mexican designer Patricio Campillo’s namesake label all filling up the week. By all intents and purposes, New York Fashion Week is really, truly back.
But beneath the glamorous surface, a new generation of independent designers have been increasingly vocal about how difficult it is to not only launch, but maintain, a successful brand in New York City. Elena Velez broke the silence, speaking candidly (and controversially) about the amount of funds she’s poured into her young label to The New York Times, this time last year. There has been increased transparency around the cost of putting on a runway show: ‘$300,000,’ Willy Chavarria recently estimated; ‘$400,000, easily,’ said Collina Strada. And, ahead of her A/W 2024 show in February, Carly Marks announced that she would be relocating her label Puppets and Puppets to London, in a newspaper article with a headline that said it all: ‘A Rising Star in Fashion Who Sees No Future in New York’. And, just last week, cult favourite Interior decided to shut its doors, citing financial difficulties and the ‘volatility of the industry’. The story goes that if you can make it here, you can make it anywhere – but can you still ‘make it’ as a fashion designer in New York City?
As New York Fashion Week begins, we asked some of the city’s independent designers, from Willy Chavarria to Diotima: what is the future of NYFW? Here, they weigh in.
‘Change is happening’: designers on the future of New York Fashion Week
Rachel Scott of Diotima
‘I am feeling oddly refreshed and energised, despite not having had a summer break. I think that’s the beauty of the spring fashion week is that it comes at the end of summer. I’m such an island gyal that I really respond to the warmth and the sun. I also feel excited about the collection, new techniques and new categories. The days leading up to the show are the best as everything takes form and comes to life.
‘I am always trying to build a sensorial experience with the show, and this season is no different. In some ways the presentation and the collection will be more steeped in Jamaica and all my experiences of it than ever before, and in some ways it will be the most abstracted and removed from Jamaica.
‘The biggest challenge with showing has always been space, and especially this season. We don’t have much support with this as independent brands. This season and over the past few seasons, we have done a lot of work to build partnerships to help put on the show, without which it wouldn’t happen. I think is absolutely still possible to start a brand and exist as an independent designer in New York, but you either have to be extremely scrappy or have a lot of money!
‘New York and New Yorkers are still endlessly inspiring. There is a really great energy in New York at the moment and it’s because of the incredible people here building a more interesting New York every day.’
Willy Chavarria
‘I feel energised to be working on my collection and finalising the vision for our runway show. This is the time of year that my team and I come together to see the fruits of our labour and put it all together. It’s a huge amount of work but it is very rewarding. This season, I hope to build raw realness into the daily wardrobe. Some of the most iconic fashion I see is in the people who inspire me. Not the fashion people, but rather the real people who work and think about other things far from fashion. Time is something that transforms into a puzzle during this time. Sleep is something that doesn’t exist during this time. The way to cope is water, healthy food and vitamins.
‘It’s absolutely possible [to start a brand in New York City]. It just requires more work than ever before. I’m inspired by people. I always have been. I rarely look to fashion for inspiration – I look to history and I look to the present ordinary person on the street who has a great sense of personal style.’
Hillary Taymour of Collina Strada
‘I love showing in New York; it’s my home. I feel like it gets a bad rep, but it is such a huge hub for a huge percentage of the fashion community. New York Fashion Week keeps getting more and more interesting in my opinion with so much new talent. Nothing is impossible. New York, like any metropolitan city, is expensive today, however if you put in your 10,000 hours you can do anything.
‘Collina always plays on past seasons and offers a new twist every time. Expect to be outside, see familiar faces and an epic soundtrack. Casting has always been a huge challenge for me. We are not supported by most of the agents in New York. I am so thankful for my community of people we cast that always make the shows feel true. I try to stay in my lane and continue my own journey, while boosting up creatives I love to continue to be the face of the brand.
‘I am inspired by maintaining healthy small businesses and continuous support of employees in the industry. The future of fashion in New York has huge potential with so much new talent. I'm excited to see how it evolves. Right now, and always, I’m inspired by nature. I just want to find peace in my surroundings and make clothes that can live and play anywhere.’
Meruert Tolegen
‘I’m excited to show my collections here in New York and to be a part of this community of designers and creatives. I think it’s such a great space to showcase, to have this platform and build onto the roster of American designers, hopefully bringing something new and interesting as an art form.
‘I think the biggest challenge is finding the right people to work and collaborate with, to help take care of and grow the brand. I still struggle with this to a degree, but I am in so much of a better place and I am so thankful for my teams and the people I work with! The only way I believe to cope is really with time, experience, and confidence. To understand what I want, where I am comfortable saying yes, and when I have to say no. It’s all a challenge of growth, and I gather this is something I will still be dealing with overtime as the brand hopefully expands.
‘The pressure to create something new and different is definitely at the top of my mind. People will always equate you to others or put you in an aesthetic box and it’s only natural. As time goes on there is only so much out there that is truly new and revolutionary. The pressure to please everyone is another challenge that I have to always remind myself that I cannot please everyone and not everyone will love it or understand it, and that’s ok.
‘I believe it’s possible to start a brand in the city, but it’s very challenging. New York is an expensive city, and that in itself is a challenge in terms of designing and producing alone. As a brand that’s very young and is quite new to the market with small distribution, it’s hard to justify the spend and to remain confident that the brand will survive. It’s definitely not easy and it is a challenge to keep it going. I’m hopeful and I create because I truly love it.’
Edvin Thompson of Theophilio
‘I’m excited to be back at New York Fashion Week. We took a break to refocus, and now it feels like the right time to return. There’s a lot of energy in the city, and we’re ready to bring something fresh.
‘This season is all about “Shaunie”, which is my childhood nickname. It’s a personal collection that mixes my roots with the vibe of New York City. It’s more introspective than past seasons, with a focus on my journey and the city’s eclectic styles.
‘The biggest challenge has been the cost and logistics of runway shows. We took a break to reassess and make sure we’re investing our resources wisely. Staying true to the brand and finding new ways to connect with our audience helped us navigate that. There’s always pressure to stand out and stay relevant, especially as a young brand. Balancing creative vision with financial realities is tough, but it also pushes us to be more innovative and resourceful.
‘It’s definitely still possible to start a brand in New York City, but you have to be resilient and adaptable. The industry is tough, but the digital age has opened up new opportunities. It’s all about having a clear vision and being ready for the challenges. I’m optimistic. New York is full of creativity and diversity, and that’s what keeps me inspired. Right now, I’m really drawn to the intersections of culture, fashion, and personal history. The city’s energy is what drives me.’
Zoe Gustavia Anna Whalen
‘In general, I echo the vast majority of my peers in feeling disappointed by the lack of support for young designers in this city. It’s extremely difficult to find financial support for new creative endeavours, but with that truth, also comes an awesome grassroots comradery and sense of community uplifting for those who are able to persevere.
‘I am trying something new this season, in an effort to remain true to the emotional reality of my wellbeing while working under tight deadlines and to combat the stress that can accompany such a busy week. My hope is to create a space of radical tranquility, for myself and visitors, and reframe a focus on the craft of the garments I make.
‘The last runway show I did in February of this year was a massive undertaking, which ultimately burned me out. I wanted to play with the fire of a more traditional format in order to subvert it, but within that fell prey to the pressures and stresses that come with a 30-look show.
‘I have received a massive amount of support for only having had my label operating for a couple of years, which I am so incredibly grateful for. I think sometimes the optics of that support can make my studio and team feel larger than they are. I think it becomes easy for people to forget that there is often just a singular human behind the scenes. It also is incredibly surreal for my name and clothing to suddenly have so many eyes watching, and evolve into something that is actually larger than myself, when I so often feel just like a girl making clothing in her bedroom.
‘I believe that when we find we are on the right path, there is a sense of ease in the flow of life, even when we are trying to create impossible things under impossible deadlines. If this is your calling it will happen, and when we try to force something that is not for us, it won’t.
‘We are so lucky to be in New York. I feel deeply inspired by my community here, and all the love that is being channelled through earth angels. We are here now, and change is happening.’
