Other fashion capitals may be known for their couture ateliers, with teams in pristine white laboratory coats quietly sewing, but it’s the vibrant 90s London clubbing scene that the Design Museum’s new exhibition credits as a key player in the success of British fashion.
Rebel: 30 Years of London Fashion features nearly 100 looks by 300 designers, spanning everything from a tulle gown worn by Rihanna to an inflatable latex suit created for Sam Smith. For Vogue fashion critic and guest curator Sarah Mower, the exhibition “aims to answer the question I am always asked, which is: ‘Why are there always so many incredible young designers in Britain?’”
In one room, visitors can dance to a pulsating soundtrack under flashing lights, surrounded by clothing inspired by nightlife. “We realised that so much of the fashion scene was rooted in club nights, so we felt that had to have its own section,” Mower says. On display is the fluorescent bandage dress from Christopher Kane’s debut 2006 collection that impressed Donatella Versace so much that she later hired Kane to work on her line Versus.
There is also a latex bodysuit adorned with giant spheres from Gareth Pugh, which references Soho’s sex shops, while a floor-sweeping gown adorned with motifs of smiley faces from Charles Jeffrey Loverboy’s 2018 collection pays homage to shuttered seminal London clubs including Blitz, Kinky Gerlinky and Boombox.
Thirty years ago, Britain was in the grip of a recession and London fashion week was feeling its impact. Starry names such as Vivienne Westwood had decamped to show in Paris, and with only 14 names on the London schedule, editors and stylists were reluctant to travel to the capital.
“This was prior to social media so bums on seats mattered,” says Mower. “The British Fashion Council was trying to figure out what London had that New York, Paris and Milan didn’t offer. The lightbulb moment came when they realised it was youth culture.”
The British Fashion Council set up a NewGen programme with the mission of supporting new talent – it has since helped launch the careers of a plethora of designers. The first presentation by a NewGen designer took place at the Ritz hotel with the then unknown Lee Alexander McQueen making his debut.
However, visitors to this exhibition won’t get to see his earliest collection. Instead, a room projects the voice of his former housemate and fellow designer Simon Ungless recalling how it was lost shortly after the showcase at the Ritz. Shoving the collection into bin bags afterwards, the duo headed to their favourite club. Unable to pay for the cloakroom, they hid the bags behind a bin. Later, when they went to gather the bags, they were gone. The collection has never been traced.
Another room champions homegrown and international designers who honed their skills in London. For the first time in Britain, Marjan Pejoski’s “swan” dress, worn by Björk to the 2001 Oscars, will be displayed. Pejoski, who was born in North Macedonia, moved to London to study womenswear at Central Saint Martins. Another highlight is the neatly tailored navy trousers paired with a crystal and pearl-adorned veil from Grace Wales Bonner. , her with her namesake label, Bonner explores black identity and male sexuality, and the outfit references the craftsmanship of east and west Africa and the Caribbean.
One wall in the exhibition features a timeline about the struggle that art schools and students now face. In 1993, education was free. Five years later, under Tony Blair’s leadership, tuition fees were introduced, while today Brexit continues to discourage many EU students from applying. Rishi Sunak recently announced plans to cap the number of students doing “low-value” university degrees.
However, the exhibition is far from pessimistic. It follows the spirit of its title, Rebel, tracing how British designers pushed against conformist ideas and catalysed change. A pair of frilly shorts from Jonathan Anderson’s 2013 menswear collection was first ridiculed by the tabloids, along with the designer’s notion of gender fluidity. A couple of months later, the LVMH-owned brand Loewe appointed Anderson as creative director, where he is credited with transforming it into a multimillion-pound fashion brand reaching record levels of revenue. Elsewhere, Priya Ahluwalia’s collection made from deadstock materials highlights her revolt against the fashion industry’s cycle of newness.
“I just want people to leave understanding how important the fashion industry is,” Mower says. “There are currently ridiculous narratives about whether art and fashion degrees are worthwhile. These designers prove they are not limiting. Fashion can really take you anywhere.”
Four more from the catwalk …
Marjan Pejoski, autumn/winter 2001
Marjan Pejoski first showed his “swan dress” – worn here by Björk at the Oscars – as part of his autumn/winter 2001 collection. Inspired by the “motion of a merry-go-round”, the catwalk was strewn with rose petals, while models wore sweaters and dresses emblazoned with peacock and swan motifs.
Matty Bovan, spring/summer 2019
After graduating from Central Saint Martins in 2015, Bovan moved back to his home town of York, where he continues to work today. Localism and a slow and considered approach to crafting influence his approach. Many of his pieces are made from upcycled rubbish. When Bovan unveiled this collection, Vivienne Westwood – who described him as a “punk and activist” – sat next to his parents on the front row.
SS Daley, spring/summer 2021
Made from vintage Laura Ashley curtains, these wide-legged trousers were created by Westminster University graduate Steven Stokey-Daley while he was at home with his parents in Liverpool during lockdown. Months later, Harry Styles wore them in the video for his song Golden.
Craig Green, spring/summer 2015
“Everyone was moved to tears during this show,” Mower says. Green originally studied art at Central Saint Martins before switching to textiles. For this collection, a cast of barefoot boys appeared wearing wafting muslin pieces, some fastened to sail-like sculptures.
Erdem, autumn/winter 2008 (main image)
After graduating from the Royal College of Art, the Canadian-born Erdem Moralıoğlu was determined to prove couture-level fashion could be created in Britain. Eighteen years later, his collections are a red carpet favourite for celebrities including Nicole Kidman.
Rebel: 30 Years of London Fashion is at the Design Museum, London, from 16 September to 11 February.
