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The Guardian - UK
The Guardian - UK
Anna Berrill

What are the best fillings for a jacket potato?

Yotam Ottolenghi’s easy autumn stuffed jacket potato is a jacket potato with a filling we suggest.
Yotam Ottolenghi’s easy autumn jacket potatoes are stuffed with spinach and melting gorgonzola, and topped with walnuts. Photograph: Louise Hagger/The Guardian

There’s no denying a jacket potato is one of life’s simple pleasures, but sometimes minimalism is not the order of the day. So if, say, tuna mayo is as edgy as your fillings get, it’s time to broaden your horizons: “For a rich, savoury twist, crisp chorizo and cream cheese make the ultimate indulgent filling,” says Poppy O’Toole, spud queen and author of The Actually Delicious Slow Cooker. She starts by frying chopped chorizo in a dry pan until it releases its oil, then stirs half the meat and its fat through some cream cheese. “Butter up your jacket potato, top with a big spoonful of the chorizo cream cheese, and sprinkle the rest of the fried chorizo on top for a satisfying, flavour-packed meal.”

The thing to remember about jacket spud fillings is that they “need a bit of richness to get them going”, says Gary Foulkes, executive chef at Cornus in London, and that’s why cheese works so well: “Realistically, it’s only ever going to be a five out of 10 if there’s no cheese in the mix.” Happily, that’s not the case in Foulkes’ favoured cowboy beans, which can be made one of two ways. First, there’s the cheffy approach: “Bake haricot beans in stock, then add some smoked bacon, a little chorizo and sauteed peppers, then emulsify that with butter and finish with chilli flakes.” Or open a tin of Heinz barbecue beans (other brands are, of course, available), “then add a few other bits and pieces: chopped sausage, chopped smoked bacon, peppers, a squeeze of lime, some chilli – whatever you like, really.” Finish things off with a grating of that all-important cheese (smoked apple cheddar, in Foulkes’ case), and “that’s quick and delicious, which is all it needs to be”.

Other creamy options to bring richness are tahini, mayo (obviously) and creme fraiche. “Or go all out with smoked salmon, creme fraiche, spring onions, dill and even trout caviar, plus a little chilli for a kick,” says Tom Cenci, executive chef of Nessa in London. Foulkes, meanwhile, often turns to cream, which is a welcome addition to one of the finest of all flavour pairings, chicken and mushroom – this would be a particularly good moment to use up any leftover roast chicken, and particularly the leg meat. Foulkes starts by sweating shallots in butter, then adds a splash of white wine, some cream and butter, and reduces. “Stir through some sauteed mushrooms, then drop in picked leftover roast chicken and finish with a little chopped tarragon.” Open up your baked potato, add a knob of butter, then spoon on the mushroomy mix.

For another spud you’ll like, O’Toole looks to India with her Bombay jackets: “They pack a flavourful punch but are still light and refreshing.” Fry red onion, garlic and ginger in vegetable oil or ghee, then add chilli, nigella seeds and turmeric. “Fluff up the middle of the baked potato with a knob of butter, top with the spiced filling, and follow that with a fresh salad of tomato, cucumber, and coriander.” Add a dod of mango chutney and a drizzle of mint yoghurt, and welcome in the jacket potato 2.0.

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