Everyone's talking about BIAB nails, which claim to be a healthier and longer-lasting alternative to gels - but what does a 'builder manicure' actually entail and is it right for you?
Undoubtedly one of the key 2024 nail trends, BIAB promises a glossy finish to rival classic gels but with added shine and staying power. It's said to be healthier than most treatments, as the 'builder' technique creates a hard-wearing and long-lasting layer over your natural nails, allowing them to grow underneath, without the risk of chipping and tearing.
This is a strong claim, as most nail services typically fall into one of two categories: traditional polishes - which offer superior care but can chip within days - or more durable but potentially nail-knackering (in the long run) options like acrylic nails. So, if you're still debating between BIAB vs gels, we've quizzed the experts on what to know before getting BIAB - as well as testing the treatment ourselves...
What are BIAB nails?
Let's begin with what a BIAB nail treatment entails and why it's a popular alternative to straightforward gel manicures...
What is BIAB?
"BIAB is a soak-off gel that is harder than regular gel polish," explains Treatwell Nail Expert Laurie Nicholl, from Lacquered & Stripped Salon. If you're wondering where the name BIAB comes from, it's an acronym. "Builder In A Bottle aka BIAB, is ideal for creating strong overlays and as a strengthening barrier for natural nails." explains nail expert and The Gel Bottle content creator, Tiffany Abbigaile.
In terms of appearance, you can expect similarities with gels or Bio Sculpture nails; a smooth, plump, and robust nail, albeit in a limited range of colours. "BIAB usually comes in clear or colours like pink," says Nicholl. This is because, due to being a stronger and thicker gel, a UV lamp would struggle to penetrate pigment-rich BIAB shades and cure them properly.
However, if you love a bold gel mani you can combine the two. "A gel nail colour can be painted directly on top of BIAB or you can use our BIAB shade range for beautiful nude nails," explains Abbigaile.
Pros & Cons of BIAB nails
Before we dive into who BIAB works best for and how it compares to gels and acrylics, what are some pros and cons of the treatment to note?
Pros of BIAB:
- Strengthening properties: This treatment works to reinforce your nails, allowing them to grow without the risk of breaking.
- Longevity: Experts say a BIAB manicure can last upwards of four weeks, which also makes it a great alternative for gel lovers whose nails are suffering from the more frequent gel removal process.
- Shiny finish: If you're weighing up BIAB vs Gels, the former offers a very similar look and can be adapted to varying nail shapes and lengths while warding off chipping or damage.
Cons of BIAB:
- Limited colour range: As mentioned, this is one potential con, however, this technique is very versatile and can be combined with gel shades - we'll get to the how in the next section!
- Removal: As with most nail treatments, the removal process can be a tad arduous with the experts stressing the importance of professional removal - to minimize the risk of nail damage.
Who should get BIAB
Anyone looking to protect, strengthen and grow their nails as well as those who already get regular gel manicures.
Who should avoid BIAB
If you prefer short, natural nails it's potentially not worth going to the effort and expense of BIAB. Those with really brittle or extremely damaged nails should also be wary of this style of nail treatment full stop. However, a nail expert will always be able to advise you on the best course of action.
How to get BIAB nails
As with most beauty treatments, going to a professional will always garner better results than doing it yourself.
However, if you are very skilled at DIY nails and have the right equipment, it is possible to do BIAB nail designs and achieve expensive-looking nails at home.
Can I do BIAB nails at home?
Technically you can, but only if you're quite skilled...and patient! BIAB functions much like regular gel polish in terms of prep and method, so is painted on as a base coat that then has to be cured with a UV lamp.
However, due to the thick and gloopy texture of BIAB, it can be difficult to control and apply correctly, which is where professional skill is needed. If you want to achieve the look of BIAB from home but lack a nail tech diploma you could use one of the best at-home gel nail kits to replicate the effect.
Our beauty team recommends...
RRP: £13.50
This light pink builder gel dries glossy and will give you a BIAB-like effect in one simple step. Follow with a top coat to set and enjoy long-lasting and strong nails.
RRP: £15.95
For all the shine with none of the fuss, this OPI standard polish top coat will keep your polish looking bright and glossy.
RRP: £89.99
For the hard-wearing and glossy effect of BIAB, try a gel polish kit. With a lamp, polishes, and removal solution, this has everything you need.
RRP: £6.99
The key to any long-lasting nail polish, especially BIAB, is good nail prep. Buff the surface and tidy your cuticles with this handy set that will help your polish last.
RRP: £2.70
Gelly nail polishes are great at imitating the appearance of BIAB. To keep your nails looking plump and healthy between appointments, these Barry M nail paints are a wonderfully affordable option.
RRP: £6
Strong and durable nails are as much down to the aftercare as they are to the prep. Moisturize with this cuticle cream to keep skin soft and supple.
What happens during a BIAB nails appointment?
In order to test the service, woman&home Beauty Channel Editor Fiona McKim booked in with Gabi at Paint Nails. As Paint's in-house BIAB expert, Gabi told me that this service is surging in popularity and is her personal favourite because the process is "like an art."
If you've ever had salon Shellac or are au fait with how to do gel nails at home, a BIAB appointment will feel like familiar territory, with a few key differences. We begin with prep, which includes cuticle work, buffing, and filing the nails into shape. Gabi then ensured no dust was left on the nail plate with a nail brush and a wipe of acetone. The BIAB process then began, in five steps:
- Base: Working one hand at a time, a thin layer of BIAB is painted on all five nails and cured under a lamp. This step is the same as gels and creates an even base.
- BIAB application: Now, your nail tech will work on one nail at a time, applying a thicker layer of the BIAB color (I chose a creamy milk nails hue) working it all over the nail by fanning out the brush and 'building' the nail up.
- BIAB shaping: Next, a very fine brush is used it to shape and push the BIAB gel into a smooth and plump layer, before curing it under the lamp. Precision is essential at this stage, as your nail tech needs to create a perfect shape and then quickly cure each BIAB nail so it doesn't move or set unevenly.
- Filing: Once each individual BIAB nail has been created, your nail tech will gently file and buff the top of the nails to create a smooth look.
- Cleaning and top coat: The nail is then cleaned again to remove any oils and a topcoat is applied and cured, much like step 1. You can either choose a clear topcoat, as I did, or have gel colour applied for a more vibrant look.
And how long does BIAB take to apply? Definitely longer than your usual gel mani (block out 1.5 hours to be safe) but this will differ between salons and nail techs.
What you need to know about BIAB
BIAB is still relatively new to the scene, so we've asked experts everything you need to know if you're thinking about getting it...
How long does BIAB actually last?
Up to four weeks is the industry standard, although they can last longer. I can report that a fortnight on from my appointment (and with the addition of gel colour) my BIAB is still 100% perfect, with no chipping, or lifting. The best thing is how trustworthy BIAB feels. I've been opening cans of Coke worry-free and enjoying the satisfying 'clack' of drumming them on hard surfaces to communicate impatience when the occasion calls.
Wondering how to make BIAB last longer? You can have an appointment for an infill at the base of your nail, which is actually a key benefit. "Since the product can be infilled, it reduces damage to the natural nail caused by removing gel polish," explains Nicholl. It's best to have BIAB infills every 3-4 weeks. If you get impatient to switch up your colour more often than that it might be better to have regular gels instead.
Who are BIAB nails best for?
The world can be divided into a few nail personalities. Some like to keep things short and natural, some prefer a cute squoval nail in a single colour, then some love ultra-long nail shapes and art-adorned talons. Luckily BIAB is a fairly adaptable service for almost any nail preference, and BIAB on short nails looks just as good as it does on long ones.
"BIAB is perfect for clients with weak natural nails who want to grow them out, or clients who want the strength of extensions without the length," explains Nicholl. We recommend applying BIAB on natural nails as it’s great for clients who want to keep their natural length. For regular gel polish wearers, we recommend switching to BIAB if you find the gel removal process has weakened the natural nail."
IS BIAB bad for your nails?
In short, no. BIAB works to strengthen the natural nail and prevent breakage or weakness that is typically caused by acrylic extensions or naturally brittle nails.
If you are a nail-biter, it will help you to kick that habit too, as BIAB is too strong to bite through. It also won't chip or break, so the nail underneath remains protected and is able to grow.
How do you remove BIAB?
Unsurprisingly, every expert we spoke to stressed the importance of professional removal. "The bulk of the product needs to be removed first by either a nail file or electric nail file. We will then soak a cotton pad with acetone, place it on the nail then wrap it with foil," explains Abbigaile. "After a few minutes, the foil can be removed one nail at a time, by gently scraping away the product with a metal cuticle pusher."
This doesn't sound like it would be the healthiest move for your natural nail (ask any expert is acetone bad for your nails and the reply is a resounding yes) but steps are taken to ameliorate any damage. "Once removed, we rehydrate the nail with cream and oil," explains Abbigaile.
BIAB vs Gel: Editor review
"I'm one of those people who always has my nails done, getting my gel replaced every month like clockwork" says woman&home Digital Beauty Editor, Aleesha Badkar. "However, earlier this year I was finding some of my gel treatments slightly dulled, with little scratches and imperfections after a couple of weeks, regular chips and sometimes even broken nails. I also noticed that during gel breaks, my (usually very strong and fast-growing) nails would be exceedingly weak and I would struggle to grow them past the fingertip.
"As I was a regular gel-getter, I thought that BIAB might be worth a try, as it could just be added to each time, without the need for removal and would hopefully give me a stronger and longer-lasting mani. And boy was I right. Five months of regular BIAB manicures left me with constantly faultless nails that boasted shine, polish and a whole lot of strength. Not only was it strong enough to stop nails cracking after those pesky little door catches, but my nails actually grew faster than they usually would naturally.
"And while BIAB manicures don't really require breaks thanks to the protein in the formula, I'm now a month into a break and my nails are making it towards a healthy length - unseen during a gel break for me. Call me an official BIAB convert."
BIAB vs Acrylic: which is better?
The answer to this question depends on what you want to achieve. In terms of nail health, BIAB is a better alternative to acrylic as it provides increased strength without compromising the natural nail.
When it comes to extensions, things get trickier. Whilst extensions can be done with BIAB, they typically won't be as long as acrylic ones. "BIAB can be applied on acrylic or UV Gel; however, it won’t enhance the result of the extensions. With BIAB, you can do very short extensions, but they usually need to be done with tips, not sculpting," explains Nicholl.
Alternatively, if you want to work on growing your natural nails and eliminate extensions altogether, you might be wondering if BIAB makes your nails longer without the need for falsies? Absolutely. If you are consistent with BIAB and get regular infills, it won't take long for your natural nails to grow long and healthy.
How much do BIAB nails cost and where can I try it?
The costs will vary from salon to salon but expect to pay around £45 for your first set, the same again for infills and £15 for removal.
"BIAB is growing in popularity amongst our customers. We definitely expect to see more salons adding it to their treatment menu," says Nicholl.
If you like the sound of BIAB and are keen to try the service for yourself, it is currently available at selected The Gel Bottle partner salons nationwide. The best way to find one is to check your local nail bar on Treatwell (UK). We also round up the latest Treatwell discount codes each month to help you find money off your next appointment.
