Hidden away off the Royal Mile down Chalmer's Close, behind white-washed walls lies what might just be one of Edinburgh's most fascinating museums.
Pulling back the curtain on the history of magic and witchcraft in the capital that inspired the likes of Harry Potter's wizarding world, the Museum of Magic, Fortune-telling & Witchcraft is an intriguing space dedicated to the real story of Scotland's occult past.
If you happen to be wandering down the Royal Mile, look out for the cauldron and witch's broom signage close to the Storytelling Centre to find Chalmers Close then wander down until you discover a portal (read doorway) into a world of magic.
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Inside you'll be greeted by witchcraft expert and author Ash Mills, 35, and his dog Niamh, who were more than happy to show the Edinburgh Live team around.
The entrance fee is a very reasonable £7.50 (unlike other museums, this one is independent meaning they rely on the entrance fee to survive) and behind the curtain, you'll find a huge array of mesmerising exhibits looking at everything from the darker parts of the capital's history, including the witch hunts that once gripped the nation to other more modern artefacts like Voodoo dolls and ouija boards.
As you navigate around the room you'll discover items that look back at Scottish folk magic and lore, home protection – an ancient version of house alarms safeguarding your home from spiritual attack – and fortune telling.
Seriously, there are so many on display it'll take you a while to navigate and take in every little detail, we loved perusing the ouija board collection and seeing the importance of protecting your hearth in the olden days, adequately portrayed by the two-hundred-year-old mummified cat on display that was sourced from a family home in France where it had been buried alive in the wall to ‘ward off evil spirits’.
There is a keen focus on Scottish items, as Ash explains: "I like to try to keep the exhibits as Scottish-based as possible since Scotland has such a rich history with magical practice and folklore."
Sitting down in the cafe afterwards for a coffee – where the tables are decorated with tarot cards or ouija board designs – Ash explained that you can buy items related to the museum such as hag stones and elf arrows or even novelty cauldrons to take home, as well as enjoy tarot readings from experienced readers (which can be booked in advance) at the museum.
Originally from Birmingham, Ash, who now lives in Edinburgh after moving here to study, explained that the museum was inspired by the life of Isobel Gowdie, a famous magical practitioner who was said to have confessed to witchcraft at Auldearn, near Nairn, in 1662.
Having written a book on her, what he learned while studying her life led to a lifelong passion and eventually the decision to create a museum to tell the story of Scotland's witches and the tragedy of the lives lost to the great witch hunts of the past that plagued the country.
"There are a lot of documentaries about the Pendle witches and there is nothing about Isobel's incredible story and I wanted to fix that.
"She embodies everything the museum is. She was caught up in the witch trials, she would have helped to protect her community from spiritual attack using wards and charms, she would have been a seer as well and also she represents modern witchcraft, as her shape-shifting song is still used by practitioners today.
"She starts and finishes the museum, and represents each category we have on display. I want to educate people and debunk a lot of the myths around witchcraft."
Ash explained that he gets loads of different people popping in to see the museum, from curious passersby to fans of Harry Potter, modern practitioners and everyone in between.
"You can see the magic and history everywhere you look in Edinburgh and the interest in the museum shows the belief in magic is as strong now as it was back then."
Fans of the occult, those with an interest in witchcraft or even just those with a passing curiosity will find the museum and its exhibits fascinating, educational and well worth checking out the next time they are on the Royal Mile.
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