Photograph: Roberto Moiola/Sysaworld/Getty Images
There’s one travel experience that is etched in Jim O’Dwyer’s memory.
During a cruise with Hurtigruten Norwegian Coastal Express, he set off on an excursion through one of Norway’s many fjords, hopping into a smaller boat so he could get up close and personal with the natural wonder.
“There was one spot where we were practically within arm’s length of a waterfall that was cascading down into the fjord – you could stand on the side of the vessel and get sprayed with the water as it plunged down,” O’Dwyer says.
“The fjords themselves are breathtaking, and of course we’ve got nothing like that in Australia. They’re incredibly steep rock faces that just plunge straight down into the sea, and you’re in between them. It’s absolutely beautiful.”
This intimate excursion through a fjord is one of the many incredible experiences O’Dwyer has had with Hurtigruten. On this trip, he was cruising the Norwegian coast, starting from Kirkenes at the northern tip of the country all the way down to Bergen, in the south-west. The voyage stopped off at fishing villages along the way, allowing time for guests to hop off and have a walk around. It also took O’Dwyer to the picturesque Lofoten Islands, where colourful fairytale houses dot dramatic mountains.
That trip was the perfect way to see a deeper side of Norway, a country O’Dwyer says is “beautiful”.
“And it’s a country with such a different history to the history we’ve been brought up with,” he says. “So you learn about Vikings, you learn about what it’s like living in such a cold climate. Their cities are really lovely. It’s all fascinating.”
A unique Scandinavian experience
Hurtigruten has been taking guests like O’Dwyer on trips around Norway for more than 130 years. This year and next, it is launching a pair of new itineraries: the North Cape Express, which travels a similar route to O’Dwyer’s, up or down the Norwegian coast, and is the first ever Hurtigruten sailing from Norway’s capital Oslo, and the Svalbard Express, the revival of an iconic voyage first sailed in the 1960s, exploring Norway’s Arctic territories.
Between them, these two trips seek out quintessentially Scandinavian experiences, such as sailing through fjords, seeing the northern lights and experiencing the quaint charm of Norway’s northern towns. Off-ship excursions include hikes, biking, kayaking and birdwatching expeditions.
Depending on the time of year you travel, you could even enjoy once-in-a-lifetime experiences such as knocking back a drink in an ice hotel that’s built afresh out of snow and ice every winter, or bathing in the warming glow of the midnight sun (in spring and summer, northern Norway has daylight for 24 hours a day).
Folk tales and polar bears
But it’s not just off the ship that O’Dwyer created wonderful memories. On board, he loved the comfortable cabins, friendly staff, and the incredible menu: a true smorgasbord that spanned everything from suckling pig to plates of the freshest smoked salmon.
Between ports, guests can also unwind in the ship’s luxurious bar, enjoy a sauna with panoramic views or warm up in one of the hot tubs that sit on its deck. O’Dwyer was also won over by the on-board activities, including nightly Norwegian folk tales.
Now that international travel is open to Australians again, O’Dwyer has already booked two further trips. The first is similar (along the Norwegian coast) to what he did before, but this time in reverse, starting in Bergen. The second is a trip to Svalbard, the remote Arctic archipelago halfway between mainland Norway and the North Pole. The latter will be a chance to see more unique birdlife – a keen interest of O’Dwyer’s – as well as the polar bears that stalk Svalbard’s coast.
With the pressures facing the climate, O’Dwyer feels it’s “opportune to try and see [polar bears] while we still can”. Thankfully, he can feel good about visiting Svalbard with Hurtigruten, which has plans in place to cut carbon dioxide emissions by 25% by 2023, and to launch its first emissions-free vessel by 2030.
O’Dwyer can’t wait to get back on board. He would recommend the cruises to anyone – with a caveat.
“You certainly should be warned: once you’ve done one, you’ll want to do another,” he laughs.
Take in Norway’s beauty on board the Hurtigruten Norwegian Coastal Express.
