Of the many people walking wide-eyed into the All Inn for the pub's launch party this week, I have to confess I was probably the most biased. Not only did I enjoy its long-running predecessor the Cross Hands, but I also used to live three doors down from its new chain's sister pub in Oxford, and loved it.
My loyalties were torn - the last time I was in the landmark Fishponds building, just a few months earlier, I was sinking into the old-fashioned sofa with a pint of reasonably-priced Guinness. From the moment the muted cream and grey exterior was painted a rather more controversial sage green and crimson red, the regulars knew it would likely target a trendier crowd - and it's only natural to be wary of change.
But on the other hand I know the Rusty Bicycle in East Oxford, the first pub in the now seven-strong portfolio at the Dodo Pub Co, to be a brilliant local. The burgers and pizzas there are seriously mouth-watering and they often ran cheap food and drink deals in the week. They were also involved with the community, closing off the street for a party every summer and posting free pint tokens to the residents as a thank-you for putting up with the noise.
Read more: First look at new Fishponds pub the All Inn
As for my new local, I'm also biased in that I want it to succeed. No one likes walking past empty buildings on their high street, and even in the two-month transition period it's been strange seeing it silent and empty, except for scaffolders and a big skip out front.
That skip was the only remnant left of the makeover mess when we headed there on Thursday night, with the rest of the transformation complete. Inside, the layout is largely unchanged but it's had a moody lick of dark blue paint and a more contemporary update to the furnishings and finishing touches - like the neon Dodo on the wall, above an explainer of how two friends founded the chain almost 15 years ago.
As you head towards the back of the pub there's a new window looking through to the kitchen, which is a nice touch making the space feel more open. The Cross Hands used to be known for its roasts and steak nights but the menu choices now are more informal, with a choice of burgers, pizzas and wings.
In the back beer garden there's a funky new mural brightening up the space and a ping-pong table for the more competitive customer. We settled down in the sunshine with a pint of Dodo's own hazy pale ale, which was deliciously juicy with a nutty aftertaste.
As well as craft beers and wine the drinks menu also has a few cocktail options, like the refreshing 'gin fix' or the potent long island iced tea. I honed in 'Thirsty Thursdays' on their deals list, when all cocktails are £6 between 5pm and 11pm. There's also a decent pizza deal, when you can grab a margherita for £6 on weekday lunchtimes.
During the welcome night the full menu wasn't on offer but there were tasters doing the rounds, which didn't disappoint. The Dodo beef burger (£11.50 full sized) was just as good as I remember, with pickled red onion cutting through the juicy meat. The truffle and parmesan fries were always my go-to in Oxford and I was excited to see those 'coming soon' on the menu in Bristol, well worth the £5 splurge instead of going to Maccies just down the road.
The pizzas were also incredible, with a richly-flavoured tomato sauce and oozing cheese on a thin wood-fired base. The veggie one with aubergine (£12.95) was a winner but I was also so impressed with the vegan pizza, seasoned with a generous pinch of oregano.
That said I wasn't quite a vegan convert in one night, and had to try the fried chicken too. They were our favourite bite of the night, delicately spiced with an epic buffalo dipping sauce that I could have eaten with a spoon.
As it happens I'm glad I didn't, because I would have upstaged myself in front of the Gogglebox bros, who happened to walk past at that moment with Aperol Spritzes in hand. There were another few familiar faces around too - if you're a big follower of Bristol's foodie scene on Instagram then expect to see a fair bit of the All Inn on your feeds over the next few days.
Although it's undoubtedly pulling in a few more 'influencers' than its predecessor might have, the All Inn also makes a nod to its past as you head into the corridor to go upstairs. There are two framed pictures on the wall of the historic pub, all the way back when there were horse and carts outside.
The words above say: "Cross Hands pub est 1853 changed hands to the All Inn Pub in 2023." It's a small gesture but I thought that was a really nice acknowledgement of its history in among the modernisation.
Upstairs they've made use of a space I never knew was there, calling it the 'jungle room' thanks to its colourful new decor. They're still in talks about what it will be used for but watch this space.
You can find out more about the All Inn on their website and @theallinnpub on Instagram. See the full picture gallery here
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