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‘Hang on a minute’ was the thought I think crossed everyone’s mind as clip after clip went viral over the weekend… from Coachella.
The once appealing festival, which materialises annually for two weekends in the Californian desert, has in recent years been the subject of much ridicule: massively overpriced, too hot to handle and saturated with the sorts of LA influencers you would rather spend your hard-earned cash on actively avoiding. The C-word sparks mental images of Kylie Jenner flaunting neon green extensions poolside or James Charles in barely-there silver bandeaus well before it does anything cool.
Written off by most, 2025’s triumphant return has therefore been nothing short of shocking — certainly in the year that Glastonbury's lineup announcement left plenty to be desired (1975, Neil Young…).
Mutterings properly began after Lady Gaga’s epic Friday night performance at the Empire Polo Club. “Mother’s back!” people exclaimed online following her five act performance, inspired by latest album Mayhem, counted stellar looks from Dolce & Gabbana, Dilara Findikoglu and custom Samuel Lewis and Seth Pratt creations. For fashion fanatics, one highlight was the glowing, chessboard set she performed Poker Face on — seemingly a reference to Alexander McQueen’s spring 2005 “It’s Only a Game” fashion show, where models presented looks while playing a game of human chess. Her closing look was a custom white stain bodysuit, split with surgical slices, by Matières Fécales. Pure campy gore.
It was only the beginning. Rapidly rising star Benson Boone offered a back-flipping tribute to Freddie Mercury in custom Dolce and Gabbana looks — one white cotton gabardine sleeveless jacket and wide leg trousers accented with military blue and gold buckles followed by a sparkling Swarovski bodysuit and ermine style royal cape — as Queen’s own Brian May played the guitar.
Sealing, signing and over-delivering, however, was Charli XCX, who took to the stage on Saturday night — with guest stars Lorde, Billie Eilish and Troye Sivan, no less. In what is set to be a huge festival summer for the Bishop Stortford-born Brat singer (Primavera, Lido , Glastonbury, etc), she has raised her own bar high. Prancing in Vivaia satin ballet pump sneaker hybrids, black hot pants and a bra-sheer shirt combo, she leant into the fuss free. Sivan wore a t-shirt which read “protect the dolls” made by London-based, American designer Conner Ives; all proceeds of the t-shirt sales go to Trans Lifeline, a US -based, trans led organization (£75, connerives.com).
The parties also kicked off. After Charli XCX’s set — not the headliner, mind you, as Green Day bagged that slot — she headed to the Guess Jeans compound for a private bash wearing a sash that read “Miss Should Be Headliner.” Also there? The cream of this year's Coachella crop: Anya-Taylor Joy, Timothée Chalamet, Justin Bieber, Leonardo DiCaprio, Cara Delevingne, Alex Consani and Julia Fox. Other A-list spots about he festival have counted Kylie Jenner, Justin Bieber, Louis Tomlinson, Jodie Turner-Smith, Paris Hilton and The White Lotus’s Patrick Schwarzenegger.
Consider the festival season officially open for business.
The best looks from Coachella 2025:
