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The Guardian - AU
The Guardian - AU
Lifestyle
Thomas Carr

Vintner wonderland: 10 Australian white wines to try this winter

Composite of bottles of white wine on a blue background
Like the weather, winter white wine is best enjoyed when it’s not too cold. Take your bottle out of the fridge, pour yourself a glass, then leave the bottle out – the flavour will develop as it warms Composite: Dan Murphy’s, Billanook Estate, Cullen Wines, Halliday, Singlefile Wines, Valentine Wines, Mudgee Wine Shop, Summer Hill Wine Shop, All Saints Getty Images

Red wine is synonymous with winter and it’s easy to see why. There’s something romantic about a glass of shiraz, a comfy couch and a fireplace. But what about white wine? While a glass of riesling or sauv blanc might seem like the ideal match with warm weather, there’s no need to retire white wine once the temperature drops.

The key to selecting a good winter white is to choose styles that are weightier, more textural and have a greater concentration of flavour. These will stand up to those richer, fattier comfort foods we tend to gravitate towards during the cold season.

Summer calls for chilled whites but, when it comes to your fuller-bodied winter whites, don’t serve them too cold. Their aromas tend to be more pronounced if they’re served a touch warmer. My suggestion is: take your wine out of the fridge, pour yourself a glass and then leave the bottle out. There’s no need for it to go back in the fridge. Instead, as the wine temperature increases by a few degrees, the aroma and flavour will evolve – and as a drinker you’ll get an appreciation and develop a preference for how you like your white wine to be served.

Take a swirl on the wild side, and crack open these 10 Australian white wines this winter.

Under $25

Duxton Vineyards, 2022 Rewild Fiano, Murray-Darling, NSW (RRP $9.99, rewildwine.com.au)

Duxton Vineyard’s Rewild Fiano

In my experience it’s difficult to get fuller-bodied, textural whites under $20, by virtue of the fact they’re more expensive to produce. What the team at Duxton has managed to achieve at this price point, however, is very good. Medium-bodied, with notes of juicy pear and bright citrus and a touch of creaminess on the palate, this is a wine that will transition from summer to winter drinking. For 10 bucks, you can’t go wrong.

Under $35

Billanook Estate, 2014 Late Harvest Sauvignon Blanc, Yarra Valley, Vic (RRP $25, billanookestate.com.au)

Billanook Estate’s late harvest sauvignon blanc

There’s something comforting about a sweet wine in winter. Crack a bottle of this in lieu of dessert – it’s luscious and moreish. With layers of sweet citrus and spice, this wine reminds me of my mum’s flourless orange cake after it’s been warmed ever so slightly and finished with cream.

Handpicked Wines, 2021 Trial Batch Riesling, Tamar Valley, Tasmania (RRP $28.99, handpickedwines.com.au)

Handpicked Wines’ trial batch riesling

If you’re looking for a fresh-tasting drop that will cut through those rich wintry dishes, give this one a whirl. There’s a zesty, sherbet-like acidity that paired beautifully with my roasted pork belly and crackling. I reckon it would go all right with a butter chicken, too!

Cullen Wines, 2022 Mangan Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc Sémillon, Margaret River, WA (RRP $30, cullenwines.com.au)

For those who like the vibrant aromatics of a savvy b but are chasing something with a little more weight for the cooler months, this is your wine.

There are notes of stone and tropical fruits, citrus, orange blossom and thyme, while the addition of sémillon and verdelho grapes enhances its complexity. The result? A wine that is intensely flavoured, layered and made for winter.

Under $50

Singlefile Wines, 2022 Single Vineyard Porongurup Fumé Blanc, Great Southern, WA (RRP $35, singlefilewines.com)

Singlefile Wines’ Single Vineyard Porongurup Fumé Blanc

If you’re not familiar with fumé blanc, it’s a style of wine made using sauvignon blanc grapes. Typically aged in oak, it offers a richer, more textural mouthfeel compared with unoaked sauvignon blancs.

You could certainly lay this wine down for a few years or drink now if patience fails to prevail. It’s a food-friendly wine that will pair splendidly with roast pork or pasta Alfredo.

Yangarra Estate, 2021 Roussanne, McLaren Vale, SA (RRP $38, yangarra.com)

Yangarra Estate’s roussanne

Roussanne is made for winter – fuller-bodied, textural and complex. If you dig French food, it’s the perfect partner for dishes like bouillabaisse, French onion soup, or any white meat doused in a creamy sauce. Here Yangarra Estate serves up a drop that offers flavours of honey, quince, cashew and golden apple. A lovely wine that will evolve in the glass.

Valentine Wines, 2022 Valentine Grenache Blanc, Heathcote, Victoria (RRP $38, valentinewines.com.au)

Valentine Wines’ grenache blanc

I don’t often see a grenache blanc so when a mate suggested I give this a try, I was all for it. Bright citrus aromatics give way to apple and honeysuckle on the palate, offering up a rich mouthfeel supported by delicate spiciness and subtle minerality.

When it comes to food pairing the winemaker Dom Valentine is a proponent of classic, old-school meals such as chicken cacciatore, stroganoff, and chicken and leek pie.

All Saints Estate, 2021 Family Cellar Marsanne, Rutherglen, Victoria (RRP $45, (allsaintswine.com.au)

All Saints Estate’s marsanne

You could argue the Rhône Valley in France is the birthplace of winter white grape varieties and marsanne is one of the region’s most valuable players.

The winemaker Nick Brown is known for his marsanne, and this 2021 release is ripe for the picking. Creamy and textural with notes of pear and quince, it is best paired with humble roast chook with crispy skin and veg.

When it comes to marsanne, your patience will be rewarded. When cellared, it develops into a full-bodied wine, displaying flavours of marmalade, baked apple and roasted nuts.

Lowe Wines, 2022 Mudgee White Gold Chardonnay, Mudgee, NSW (RRP $48, lowefamilywineco.com.au)

Lowe Wines’ white gold chardonnay

This is hands down one of the best chardonnays I’ve tried of late. A red drinker’s white wine, this sexy drop is packed full of texture and concentrated flavour. It has a lovely creamy mouthfeel while displaying bright lifted fruit on the palate. I love an oaky chardy so this was right up my alley, with nine months in new and one-year-old French oak. Exceptional value for a chardonnay of this quality.

Over $50

Kooyong Estate, 2020 Faultline Chardonnay, Mornington Peninsula, Vic (RRP $60, portphillipestate.com.au)

Kooyong Estate’s faultline chardonnay

I grew up on the Mornington peninsula so I’m often asked what my favourite wines from the region are. This is one of them. Lemon rind, nougat, stone fruit and spice make this wine a textural masterpiece with killer length and moreish acidity. And it only gets better with age.

Kooyong Estate produces two single-vineyard chardonnays, Faultline and Farrago,. So if you’re feeling bougie, nab a bottle of each and try them side by side. Its a great way to see the effect terroir has on wine.

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