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Versace took a youthful and fresh-faced approach to its latest collection: a retreat from the strikingly sexy aesthetic we’re used to.
The Italian label is known for its glamour and decadence, but its spring/summer 2025 show at Milan Fashion Week couldn’t feel further from this.
The brand has been led by founder Gianni Versace’s sister, Donatella Versace, since his death in 1997, and this collection was a refreshing yet nostalgic nod to the brand’s storied past, whilst pushing into a playful and modern direction.
The show struck a delicate balance between the iconic opulence we’ve come to associate with the house and a breezier, more lighthearted aesthetic.
Signature styles like baroque print patterns, caramel-coloured suede and disco bodycon dresses were paired with whimsical embellishments like perfume bottle and champagne stem heels, giving the collection a fresh feel – more sweet than sexy.
The runway included the ‘it’ girls of both today and the future, such as close friend of the label, Gigi Hadid – who wore a floral midi dress paired with playful rust tights – and Gen Z phenomenon, Iris Law.
Tailoring was a key focus: including structured blazers and sharp midi-skirts – these pieces were softened by playful lace-trimmed edges and sheer layering.
Versace tapped into the Y2K obsession with slinky slip dresses, low-rise trousers and diamante detailing.
There was also a sense of the Seventies to the collection, with Missoni-inspired chevron patterns (an Italian fashion house that had its heyday in the 1970s), boho bags and disco detailing reminiscent of maximalist Studio 54 glamour.
Despite the nods to nostalgia, this collection wasn’t just about looking back.
What looked like a gold sequinned strapless dress on model Anok Yai was actually 3D-printed: built without seams, its famous Versace hourglass shape programmed by a machine.
The collection reminded us that while Versace’s legacy may be rooted in glamour and sex appeal, the brand is undeniably capable of growth and evolution.
With its gestures to both past and present, it’s clear the Versace woman remains timeless.
