Getting an Emmy award is a lifetime dream for many. How about five Emmys? For costumes?! When the category for Outstanding Costumes for a Variety, Nonfiction, or Reality Programming was first introduced in 1986, Marina Toybina was a five-year old girl dressing dolls in Moscow. Now with five statuettes to her name, she holds the most wins in this new Emmys category and is one of the world’s most in-demand designers. The only person with more wins is the iconic costume and fashion legend Bob Mackie! While not many people outside the industry know her name yet, millions have enjoyed her work on television and stage. If in the past few years you have attended tours by renowned artists such as Carrie Underwood, Ariana Grande, Taylor Swift, Usher, Miley Cyrus, Katy Perry, or Pink, you have seen her stellar costumes. If you’re watching Masked Singer, and I know you are… the Fox hit has scored the highest Nielsen ratings for a non-sports program every season. Toybina’s incredible costumes contribute to a large part of the show’s appeal, as well as it’s viral moments and memes. I had the pleasure to connect with the designer to discuss her Soviet Union to Hollywood trajectory, challenges of working with global superstars, and the next pivotal moment in her career.
Let’s start with ‘right now’. You’ve just presented the famous Russian Matryoshka dolls on the Masked Singer. How did that idea come about?
I did the artwork for this costume a few seasons ago, but the opportunity to execute the design didn’t present itself until season 5. With the Hanson brothers coming on board, we were able to expand the idea of the original concept and bring this vision to life. Almost a game within a game! We went back and forth with the guys on the perfect artwork, between very modern and traditional. At the end, we settled on the traditional form of the dolls. They were a bit challenging at times to maneuver, but the Hansons did a wonderful job embracing the build of these dolls while being able to give a killer performance.
As a Russian American myself, it was great to witness such a fun moment of cultural exchange on American television!
It was so important for me to execute this correctly as I take so much pride in being Russian and the dolls were a big part of my childhood. At the same time, this is more than a quintessential Russian souvenir. I’ve known people who have never been to Russia but still have these dolls in their homes. It is a popular collectible item. So, immediately I thought, "Let's go big." Let's really show the beauty of what this cultural artwork is!
A Korean show adapted for the US market has become a global phenomenon. How do you balance the different cultural influences in your designs?
I research all the time! Who are my characters and what are their stories? Not just in a playful sense, but also in a historically authentic and diverse realm. It is important for me to open our audience to different cultures. Our show is being viewed everywhere, so why not invite all these beautiful aspects and details onto our stage? For example, I designed a dragon mask for season 4 that was heavily influenced by a Japanese samurai warrior, and every detail – the coloring, sculpt of the mask, pattern, stitching, and embroidery – was very specific and sensitive with respect to its origins.
Let talk about your path to this success. How did the move to the USA challenge you?
Coming from Moscow to Phoenix, Arizona at the age of 11… The first big adaptation for me was the temperature. We went from the freezing, below 30-degree winters to hot 100-degree winters. I couldn't believe it. Lifestyle fashion was another big “adjustment” for me. I grew up wearing tailored dresses in public and structured uniforms at school to, then, embracing more casual trends. I went to school right away, but it was not necessarily the best experience. I didn't speak English that well, so some kids were assuming something was wrong with me. During recess, I often was told by some children, "Go back where you came from." It was an interesting dynamic, because at the same time I was excelling in my studies and in sports. I was one of the few people in my class to graduate with a scholarship. Regardless of these challenges and circumstances that I might have faced while attending middle school and high school, I was able to accept the cards I had been dealt and keep moving forward. 29 years later I’ve been able to create a successful and powerful platform for myself, where I can protect the little me’s of today!
Fashion education is experiencing a major transformation now… How useful was your time in college?
I'll always say education is necessary, whether you take 10% or 100% from it. While attending FIDM, I was given the knowhow tools to ignite that fire inside me and develop the courage to build out my dreams. I continue to be in close contact with many of my school administrators and have spent time over the years being a guest speaker and current mentor for their students.
After 20 years in this business, what were some of the lessons you wish you learned sooner?
How to navigate the difference between being passionate about what I do versus building a career out of it. I wish there was more emphasis on how to guide talented kids into becoming successful entrepreneurs. I had to learn on my own through bad days, good days, bad people, and good people. Also, about building your self-value. What are you providing that is different from everybody else that makes you special and valuable? Leaps of faith are always a plus, but you must be very careful about who you’re working with. Is this the right fit? In order to have stability in business you need to surround yourself with people who help you execute your goals. It's difficult to do it on your own.
Speaking of people, you’ve designed for some of the biggest names in American and Russian music. How do you approach working with the superstars?
I've been so lucky, it’s true! Every artist is different as is the process of designing for them. At the end of the day, it’s a beautiful experience to work with anyone who has such immense love for their craft. It doesn’t matter if they are performing at the Kremlin or The Grammys. Being able to adapt my skills to enhance their vision is a challenge I've been very blessed to have. Although I’ve had the opportunity to collaborate with many extraordinary artists of this time, I still have a wishlist of incredible icons that I would love the pleasure to design for such as Elton John, Janet Jackson, Bjork, and Cher — to name a few!
Are there differences between Russian and American audiences?
When it comes to concerts, I think there is a completely different underlying cultural take on watching performances. In Moscow, typically, everybody is sitting down to enjoy the concert. There is a tradition of gifting flowers at the end of each song. It’s a different type of artist appreciation. American tours have a whole different vibe. Everybody is usually standing, dancing, cell phones out, documenting the moment.
What’s next on your professional horizon?
Costume design runs through my blood. At the same time, I'm now in a place where I am open to experimenting with different interests of mine. Executive producing, directing, launching a brand, what else is possible? I've always been a caretaker, so there are many things I want to achieve that would be in service to those that I stand and speak for. The questions that I now find myself asking are, “What do I do with my name, my platform, my team, and the progression of my career to elevate us all to the next level?” One of my biggest dreams is to open a specialty academy in Los Angeles that would allow kids to receive free fine arts education. My wish is to give back to the youth communities that really need the extended outlet to excel in their talents, as I was one of those kids.
And now you have five Emmys!
[Laughs] You know… Lately, I’ve been thinking about what these accolades mean to me and just how proud I am of my journey. I think we often forget to acknowledge these special moments and the stories behind them. For me, my parents play a huge role in my accomplishments and it was having their unconditional love and support that allowed me to achieve the impossible. It is my family’s heritage, values, and morals that made me who I am today as a designer and a person.
A retrospective of your work would be a blockbuster! Do you see it more as a runway show or a gallery exhibition?
If you asked me 10 years ago, I would have leaned toward a runway display. Much of my earlier work was heavily influenced by fashion. Throughout the years I’ve been so fortunate to work with exquisite textiles, patten makers, and jewelers! However, with my current platform of being a costume designer, a gallery exhibit would be a better approach. The costumes that my team and I have created over the past decade have been highly acclaimed as wearable art, and it would be amazing for people to have the opportunity to experience our masterpieces up close. It truly is an extraordinary journey.
