Jackson Boxer, chef/patron of Brunswick House and latest venture Henri, both in London, takes a minimalist approach to snacks, which really comes into its own in summer. “There are so many simple, delicious things that you don’t have to do anything to,” he says. “Good potato chips fried in olive oil [his go-to are Bonilla A La Vista] are unimpeachable; good anchovies are unimpeachable; good olives are unimpeachable; shavings of good cheese – unimpeachable.”
Melissa Hemsley, author of Real Healthy, couldn’t agree more, although she goes one step farther by threading anchovies, olives and cubes of manchego on to cocktail sticks: “Yum – and so easy.”
The most important part of any TV snack game, though, is to get ahead. For the win, Billy Stock, head chef at Sète in Margate, would slow-roast a duck: “Whack that on the table with spring onions, cucumber, hoisin or plum sauce, and Chinese-style pancakes, and everyone can help themselves.”
Dips always improve a TV moment. “Feta mole is my favourite,” Hemsley says, and all that involves is blitzing some feta with guacamole and topping it with jalapeños. “I also love blitzing cottage cheese with garlic, herbs [dried thyme, fresh parsley, and basil, say] and lemon,” she says. “That’s a dream spread on crusty bread topped with diced cherry tomatoes.”
Cynthia Shanmugalingam is also all about the dips and chips: “I use rice poppadoms, which are crunchy and addictive, and they crisp up well in a microwave [assuming you’d rather not deep-fry]” says the chef/founder of Rambutan in London. She serves these with an assortment of sambals: “Maybe blitzed coriander, green chilli and mint with salt and lime; or a delicious peanut sambal [peanut butter, frozen grated coconut, salt, tamarind, tempered mustard seeds, chilli]; or a classic aubergine sambal [roast aubergine, lime juice, coconut milk, green chillies], which is like a Sri Lankan baba ganoush.” You’ll also want some chicken – 65 wings, she adds, which are a “baked version of a Tamil Nadu classic”. The wings are marinated first in garam masala, hot chilli powder, garlic, ginger, yoghurt, a little salt and sugar. “Then, while they’re roasting, which takes about 20 minutes, fry some curry leaves to sprinkle over at the end with plenty of salt.”
Other snack hits include Hemsley’s roast dates stuffed with feta and drizzled with hot honey, as well as the joys of roast chickpeas. “You can even recreate your favourite crisp flavours,” she says, sensibly – be that salt and vinegar or sweet chilli. Either way, start with a tin or jar of chickpeas, drain, rinse and pat dry. “Spread out on a big tray, roast at 220C (200C fan)/425F/gas 7 for 15 minutes, then drizzle over olive oil, add your favourite spices [paprika, dried rosemary] and sea salt, toss, and roast for another 20 minutes.” Leave to cool and crisp up further, then sprinkle with more salt and tuck in.
For Boxer, however, the most “chic thing you could possibly do” at the height of summer is to cut perfectly ripe fruit (think cherries, peaches, apricots) and serve it chilled on ice. Happily, this strategy also conjures memories of his favourite childhood sweet: “It’s the closest I can get to that pure, sweet, acidic, chewy, texture and complexity of eating Haribo by the fistful,” he says – although that’s good, too.
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