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Evening Standard
Evening Standard
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Emma Magnus

Turner Prize-nominated artist Pio Abad on his 'incredible and idiosyncratic' London neighbourhood

We moved to Woolwich in 2013. It’s a classic story of artists being priced out of areas in London: we lived in Brixton, then Peckham and then slowly made our way further south-east, ending up in Woolwich.

We live in the Royal Arsenal, which has a rich history. Back in the day, it would have been one of the more powerful areas of the British Empire. Now, it’s a lovely collection of flats and incredible, idiosyncratic historical buildings.

There’s one building, by Wellington Park, with the most ornate entrance gates; there’s another with a French-style courtyard and roof terrace, called Chatham Close. Woolwich integrates the historical fabric of the city with day-to-day life.

Woolwich is full of history (Daniel Lynch)

My studio is a 15-minute walk down the river, towards the original Tate & Lyle’s sugar factory. It’s the dream commute. The area has changed so much since we moved here over a decade ago. We’ve just had a baby, but we’re going to try to stay for as long as we can. We love it here.

Best for eating and drinking

Good restaurants are still few and far between. There’s a lovely shop called Boulangerie Jade on Major Draper Street, where I get my ham and cheese croissant in the morning. There’s good coffee at The Yoga Space — not the most creative name — on Duke of Wellington Avenue, by the river.

Boulangerie Jade for a ham and cheese croissant (Daniel Lynch)

I usually pop by there on my walk to the studio. The Chef House Kitchen on Bowater Road is one of those rare places in London where you can get a fry-up, burger, curry or roast dinner at any time of the day. That’s where I go for lunch. Everyone calls you “babe”. ViB Bar, on Beresford Street does good Vietnamese bao buns. The Dial Arch, on No 1 Street, is the local pub.

Where I work out

I live on the top floor of a listed building without a lift, so every day is cardio day. There’s also a gym at the Arsenal that I go to regularly, which is very quiet.

To commune with nature

The Royal Arsenal is almost like a campus: there is a gate by the main road, and there are pockets of green everywhere, often accompanied by cannons of various sizes.

The monument in the middle of Wellington Park (Daniel Lynch)

During lockdown, it was such a balm to live by a body of water. Wellington Park is a lovely spot of green right in the middle of the development, with a monument in the middle. Maribor Park, on the other side of the Arsenal, is full of wildflowers.

Grocery shopping

There’s a farmer’s market in the Royal Arsenal twice a month. There’s a stall called Rare Italian Wine that sells wine from small vineyards around Italy. In Woolwich, we also have the largest Tesco in Europe, on Grand Depot Road. There’s an M&S by the Lizzy line station.

For a culture fix

My studio is in a complex on Harrington Way called Thames-Side Studios, which has a huge gallery space.

Woolwich Works, a multi-purpose venue on No.1 Street (Daniel Lynch)

Punchdrunk, the immersive theatre company, have moved their headquarters to The Carriageworks, one of the buildings in the Arsenal. For most of last year, one of the buildings near our flat was the burnt-out city of Troy. It is part of Woolwich Works, where you can watch dance, music, comedy and theatre. 

Getting around

The Elizabeth line has been life-changing. As an artist with shows internationally, I travel a lot. Being able to get from this part of south-east London to Heathrow in an hour is incredible.

The Elizabeth Line has been “life-changing” for Pio (Daniel Lynch)

Woolwich is also well-connected: there’s the DLR and the National Rail. But the Elizabeth line has changed the way I navigate the city. Now, if people don’t meet me at Farringdon or Soho, I don’t see them.

My dream street

I’m happy where I live — I’ve got a view of the river.

Something you only see in Woolwich

Cannons. So many cannons.

Some of the many canons in and around James Clavell Square (Daniel Lynch)

What’s the catch?

I wish there were more places to eat. I love Thai food, and we don’t have that.

In three words

History at home.

Pio Abad has been shortlisted for the Turner Prize for his exhibition, To Those Sitting in Darkness. His work will be at Tate Britain from September 25 to February 16, with the winner announced on December 3.

Pio with more of the Woolwich canons (Daniel Lynch)

 Schools

Cardwell, Foxfieldand Heronsgate are three of five primary schools in the area rated as Outstanding.

For secondaries, Royal Greenwich Trust School, Ark Greenwich Free School and Saint Mary Magdalene Church of England All Through School are amongthe top choices.

What it costs

Buying in Woolwich

Average flat price : £358,660

Average house price: £438,710

Renting in Woolwich

Average flat: £1,950 pcm

Average house: £2,150 pcm

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