I have spent nearly a decade working with the best skincare experts in the world. From dermatologists and plastic surgeons to aestheticians and nurses, all of these experts have shared a huge amount of valuable advice. Whether they're sharing their insight into the best cleansers on the market or the biggest skin myths, I know I can lean on them to tell me what's what. As a result of this, I have a pretty sound understanding of skin—what's good for it, what's bad for it and generally what sorts of products should treat an issue.
Therefore, whenever I see a new social-media trend emerge relating to any given skincare tool, I'm usually left rolling my eyes. There is a huge amount of misinformation out there when it comes to skincare, and it really hits a nerve with me when skin tools are involved. Why? Because these gadgets tend to be expensive and only end up letting you down. So, in a bid to help some of you out there save some money and avoid falling for snake oil products, these are the five skincare tools and gadgets that I would never let near my face.
1. Pore vacuums
As somebody with congested skin that is prone to breakouts, I can totally see the appeal in buying a pore vacuum to suck out all of that spot-causing gunk—that is if you don't fully understand the damage they can do. While I don't necessarily hate them in a clinical setting, where an aesthetician or doctor is in charge of using them, I really hate the idea of anybody using them at home.
"At-home pore vacuums should be approached with caution due to the potential for significant dermatological harm," warms Dr Maham Khan, consultant dermatologist at the Cadogan Clinic. "The primary concerns include: the suction force of these devices causing notable irritation and inflammation, particularly in individuals with sensitive or reactive skin, and overuse or excessive suction leading to bruising and rupturing of superficial blood vessels."
And beyond the fact they can lead to some pretty nasty irritation and bruising, they can actually make acne worse. Consultant dermatologist at Self London, Dr Anjali Mahto explains: "The intense suction can disrupt the skin's natural barrier, causing inflammation and potentially worsening acne or other skin conditions. Pore vacuums may also provide a false sense of cleanliness, as they can only remove surface-level debris and not address deeper blockages or underlying skin issues. Professional treatments are safer and more effective, as they can be tailored to the individual's skin type and condition, ensuring minimal risk with optimal results."
What to buy instead
For starters, if you are having a facial or a medical skin treatment, don't run for the hills if the aesthetician or doctor pulls out a pore vacuum—they are trained to use these and know when to stop. However, if you've been tempted to buy one for at-home use, just don't. Instead, lean on pore-unclogging salicylic acid products, like the cult Paula's Choice BHA Liquid Exfoliant. If you're battling blocked pores as a result of oiliness, a good clay mask, like the below one from Kiehl's, will prove just as effective at declogging.
2. Face tape
We've spoken at length about the pitfalls of face taping here on Marie Claire UK, but I'd like to reiterate the point: face taping is not a longterm lifting solution. While the risks of face taping aren't nearly as serious as some of the other tools on this list (and it isn't particularly expensive), it's a silly idea for a plethora of reasons.
"Face taping for wrinkle reduction is not a good idea—the effectiveness, if any, is very short-lived and fails to tackle fundamental causes of wrinkles, such as reduced collagen and skin elasticity," says consultant plastic surgeon, Mr Tunc Tiryaki. And beyond the fact it doesn't really work, it can also lead to skin problems. "Adhesive tapes may provoke skin irritation, resulting in redness and allergic reactions. Improper removal can cause skin damage, heightening sensitivity, and frequent use can compromise the skin barrier, making it more vulnerable to environmental damage and potentially lead to dermatitis," he adds.
What to buy instead
While I appreciate face tape is a cheap, easy option, as we have learned, it doesn't really do a lot, risks irritation and isn't great for the environment. Microcurrent devices, on the other hand, work to stimulate collagen and elastin production in the skin, resulting in a smoother, more lifted complexion.
3. Dermarollers
This is something I am very passionate about. At-home microneedling and dermarollers really send a shiver down my spine. Despite what you may see on social media, carrying out microneedling on yourself at home is simply never a good idea. "At-home microneedling carries several risks, primarily due to the potential for improper technique and inadequate hygiene. The main issue is the risk of infection—without professional sterilisation procedures, the microneedling device can introduce bacteria into the skin, leading to infections and possible complications," explains Dr Mahto.
Beyond infection, there are a number of other risks. "Overuse can lead to scarring and hyperpigmentation, particularly in those with darker skin tones and may also damage the skin barrier. Allergic reactions may happen if harsh skincare products are used post-treatment. ggressive use can cause minor bleeding or bruising. Existing skin conditions like eczema, psoriasis or active acne can worsen, and pain and discomfort are common side-effects," adds Mr Tiryaki. In conclusion? Leave these treatments to professionals, always.
4. LED spot zappers
I thought long and hard about this because, truthfully, I have used targeted LED 'spot zappers' before. However, the reason they are on this list is purely because I don't think they're great value for money in comparison to full LED masks.
Let me first explain that at-home LED isn't as effective as in-clinic LED treatments. However, that's not to say I don't adore my LED mask—I just have to use it every day. "At-home LED devices are designed to be safer for general use, thus they emit lower intensity light. While they can still be beneficial, the results are usually less dramatic and take a lot longer to achieve [than in-clinic LED]," says Dr Mahto.
And, actually, LED spot sticks are generally well respected by dermatologists and skin experts. "They are effective for focused treatment of specific areas, such as individual acne lesions or small regions of hyperpigmentation," says Dr Khan.
So what's the problem with LED spot sticks? Well, they're just not as effective as general LED masks. "[Targeted LED spot sticks] may not be as effective for broader concerns like overall skin texture and tone —LED masks tend to provide more uniform treatment to the entire face," says Dr Mahto.
What to buy instead
Well, obviously my advice here is to go for a full-face LED mask. I adore both of the below options for daily upkeep and LED benefits. From daily use, you can expect to see a more even complexion, increased glow and, in some cases, clearer skin.
5. Cleansing brushes
While cleansing brushes have long been loved in social media beauty communities, within the skincare expert community they're considered a bit of a nuisance. "The main thing with cleansing brushes is that they can be overly abrasive, especially for people with sensitive or acne-prone skin," says Dr Mahto. "The scrubbing action can cause microtears, leading to irritation, redness and inflammation, disrupting the skin's natural barrier and exacerbating existing skin conditions—potentially causing breakouts."
What to buy instead
The best thing you can do for your skin in your cleansing routine? Use your hands to massage the cleanser in and remove it with a wet muslin cloth or flannel—it really is that simple. Using the below double-cleansing duo every evening is an ideal way of delivering a really effective cleanse.
