Think of Croatia and you’ll probably picture its pretty islands, UNESCO-listed Dubrovnik, or all the sun-soaked festivals that flood summer social feeds. But there is so much more to the Adriatic-hugging country.
Venture northwest towards the Italian border and you’ll find Istria, a heart-shaped peninsula once the jewel of the Venetian Empire. Fought over for decades, Istria officially became Croatian in 1991 following the breakup of Yugoslavia. It’s a bountiful place of fine wine, olive oil and truffles, which are all channelled into its gourmet dining offering.
Istria is a magnet for Italian, German and Slovenian families, making crowds swell in its towns and villages over the school summer holidays. That, and the heat — increasingly nudging towards the unbearable 40 degree mark in peak season — mean that visiting over the Easter break or the October half-term is a far more pleasant experience.
Car hire is crucial. Infrastructure within the towns is non-existent and there’s no way to reach the smaller villages otherwise — these are the ones that make Istria sparkle. On the upside, nothing is more than an hour or so’s drive away so you won’t be behind the wheel (or on the ‘wrong’ side of the road) for long.
From truffle-hunting to island hopping and catching a gig at a Roman amphitheatre, Istria may be Europe’s best-kept secret - for us Brits, at least.
Here’s a whistlestop guide to enjoying the best of it.
Istria: Need to know
Dine at one of Istria’s foodie gems
Hugging the western coast of the Istrian peninsula, Poreč (pronounced: Poresh) is a historic town with pretty cobbled streets, a Byzantine mosaic-studded Basilica and a marina filled with bobbing yachts.
Once a Roman colony a temple remains — there are plenty of cafes, ice cream parlours and shops to wander around the old town. For a slap-up meal, look across the water to Sveti Nikola Island, home of Restaurant Miramare.
The restaurant is helmed by Michelin-decorated chefs, Italy’s Cerea brothers and offers gourmet Mediterranean and Italian dishes paired with a regional wine list. Plates are best devoured while gazing at the sparkling sea from the panoramic windows.
Other note-worthy spots include San Rocco hotel in Brtonigla (from £200 on a B&B basis), a boutique bolthole made for newlyweds, which offers fine dining under the stars. The tasting menu is a series of plates that each look like a piece of art, with luxury olive oil from the hotel’s oleotheque readily available for an extra splash of indulgence.
It’s a fabulous place for an exceptional meal, but if your arteries can’t handle gourmet every night, stroll up the road to Primizia Food & Wine, a local restaurant that will welcome you like an old friend and ply you with wood-fired pizza and locally made wine until you’re immobile.
Visit Roman ruins
Harbour town Novigrad is a world away from the austere greyness one might associate with such a Soviet-sounding moniker. Winding pathways meander past sun-baked colourful houses, eateries and small shops. The star attraction is the medieval Church of St Pelagius and St Maximus, under the altar of which lies a Roman crypt.
While this is closed to the public, history buffs can view unearthed church artefacts at The Lapidarium Museum, adjacent to the church. It’s all easily seen in half an hour or less, after which you can wander along the town’s old fort walls, some of which sit right on the lapping waves.
The most impressive piece of the Roman’s legacy is in Istria’s capital, Pula. The city is anchored by a colosseum that is still used for gigs and major events like the Pula Film Festival. Built between 27 BC and 68 AD, it’s surprisingly intact with many tiers and lower galleries still in place, making it a magnet to take selfies against.
Ticket prices are comparable to London’s music venues, so if your budget doesn’t quite stretch, join the crowds sitting and drinking on the steps outside where the sound is almost as good.
Take in wine country
Surrounded by acres of vineyards, Motovun rises magnificently from the green landscape. The hilltop village is clustered tightly around an ancient fortress with cobbled streets winding up to a medieval church and the town square where fireworks are set off on major holidays.
Just off the square is a charming artist’s studio where you can find hand-drawn paintings and signs inspired by the locality. Views from the top stream out to the horizon: you can see for miles from up here. The path is steep in places, so take your time and bring walking boots - anything with a bit of grip.
It’s appetite-revving stuff, but Konoba Fakin takes care of lunch with an excellent food and wine menu with complimentary all-you-can-eat views of the stunning countryside below.
Go truffle hunting
Truffles are one of the jewels in Istria’s foodie crown, and if you want to do more than eat your body weight in the stuff, head to Karlic Tartufi, close to Motovun.
A cacophony of excited barking greets visitors pulling into this family-run truffle farm, where they have been hunting these prized shrooms for generations. The kennel of trained dogs includes Dalmations and Labs to Lagotto Romagnolo, the curly-coated Italian breed traditionally used for truffle hunting.
Karlic Tartufi runs truffle hunting experiences with incredibly knowledgeable English-speaking guides and their clever four-legged friends, involving heading into the thick forest and trying to keep up with the hounds as they expertly unearth the gourmet gold.
Once you’ve collected enough treasure, you’ll be whisked back to HQ to sample them in the farm’s airy dining space. Best to wear something stretchy.
Feast on the freshest seafood
Among Istria's larger towns, the lively fishing port of Rovinj (Roveen) is somewhere you can happily linger all day. Narrow lanes lead to the hilltop St. Euphemia church, where you can enjoy a peaceful moment and sweeping Adriatic views before you make the gentle ascent back to the bustling seafront.
The jagged rock-framed water is crowded with sunbathers lounging on striped towels or leaping into the blue water below, with faithful hounds following. If you forget your swimmers, Puntulina Restaurant offers buzz without requiring a change of clothes. Serving a seafood-packed menu — frankly, in this location, it would be rude not to — the best tables are arranged along the cliffside, the spray from slapping waves keeping feet cool in the heat.
Where to stay
Kempinski Hotel Adriatic
Best for: family-friendly luxury
The five-star resort, which includes a golf course and world-class spa, sits on the coast with sea access via a private pebbled beach, which is lined with cabanas. It is is also home to Kanova, a beautiful restaurant primed for proposals with a wraparound open-air terrace that takes in epic sunsets and later, starry heavens. Tuck into Istrian and Italian fare as night falls, watching as distant lights along the coastline — which spans part of Croatia, Slovenia and Italy — bloom in the darkness. The Tomahawk is epic, so go easy on the sides.
Book it: from £140 on a bed & breakfast basis. booking.com
Grand Hotel Brioni
Best for: friends or a Pula minibreak
This Radisson Collection hotel has weekend break written all over it, from the vibrant blue rooms complete with self-serve room service, a beautiful subterranean spa and infinity pools overlooking Pula’s bay area. It’s a great base to explore the city.
Book it: from £160 on a bed & breakfast basis. booking.com
For more information and to plan your trip, visit istria.hr
