The future is decidedly murky for three major brands that have played significant roles in Australia's wine industry development.
Wolf Blass, Lindeman's and Yellowglen, once household names, face uncertain futures after Treasury Wine Estates announced plans to sell the trio as part of its streamlining of international operation.
According to Treasury, "challenging market conditions ... across all markets" have triggered the move to dispose of "low-end commercial" brands.
Treasury was once Australia's biggest wine producer and the seventh largest in the world, with the iconic Penfold's brand the jewel in the crown.
After the sale Treasury's Australia operation will be limited to Penfold's, Seppelt, Wynn's, St Hubert's and Pepperjack, although it also has wineries in the United States, Italy, New Zealand and France.
Wolf Blass, who formed his eponymous label in 1966, has already ruled out any possibility of buying it back. At age 90, that's hardly surprising.
It raises the question of whether a new buyer will want to step in amid these "challenging" conditions, or whether the famous old labels will be retired altogether.
TASSIE AGAIN
Twelve months ago this column mentioned how Tasmania had won the National Pinot Noir Challenge for four years in succession - all with different labels - making it arguably the pinot noir capital of Australia.
Make that five years in succession.
This time it was Bremley Vineyard that was named king, beating more than 300 entries from around Australia.
The judging panel was chaired by Tom Carson of Yabby Lake fame and comprised some of the finest pinot noir minds in the country.
"While the 2023 Bremley Pinot Noir from the Coal River came out on top, it was a tight competition for first place, with the Yarra Valley's Giant Steps Sexton Vineyard Pinot Noir an extremely close second," Carson said.
"The 2023 Bremley Coal River Pinot Noir is a beautifully crafted wine, combining power and elegance with the silkiest of tannins and a refined finish that lingers endlessly.
"The Coal River region dominated the state of Tasmania and the awards in general. There's no sign of this momentum slowing any time soon."
Sorry to report that the $50 wine has sold out.
WINE IN A CAN
Scarborough Wines broke new ground this month by launching their Wine in a Can format.
There are four wines in smaller 250ml cans - that equates to just over two standard drinks - comprising two spritzy wines, rose and vermentino, and two table wines, a chardonnay and a tempranillo, both in lighter, fruit-forward fashion.
"We want to see how it goes," sales and marketing manager Sally Scarborough said. "It's about convenience and portability, but also in a smaller size for people wanting to drink less.
"We deliberately wanted lighter, fruit-forward styles of wine that would suit a picnic."
The price is $9 a can ($8 for members), sold in packs of four, available through the cellar door.
WINE REVIEWS
ZESTY SPRITZ
Scarborough White Spritz Vermentino
$9
This 250ml wine is from Scarborough's light and fruity Offshoot range of fruit. Two standard glasses, give or take. Lightly spritzed, this offers lively easy-drinking flavours of pears, florals and lime. With zesty energy, this is good for sipping on a warm afternoon, a picnic or a barbecue. It could even be the base for a cocktail if you want to get creative.
TOMAHAWK TIME
Riddoch The Author Shiraz, 2021
$65
Riddoch's The Author series represents the finest expression of the Coonawarra vintage. Bucketloads of dark, ripe fruit on the nose, this is a rich, full-bodied, yet spritely. Juicy blackberry flavours do the heavy lifting, with dark plum, bramble and leafy mint. A hint of licorice and spice too. Food? Something hearty - a tomahawk steak perhaps.
BEGUILING BARBERA
Mercer Barbera, 2023
$32
Mercer is very definitely a Hunter operation, but the fruit for this comes from Orange and there's an overarching sense of brightness about it. Lifted aromatics, lively acidity, a savoury note to the finish, the winemaker's usual light touch ... yeah, a lot to like here. Cherry flavours, medium weight, briary blackberries, good length, seriously moreish.
