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Bristol Post
Bristol Post
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Rema Mukena

Travel review: Echoes of the Past along the Amalfi Coast

Surrounded by blue crystal clear waters and encompassed by pastel coloured houses and villas, Sorrento is a place where city life meets ocean waters.

This lively geographical location of botanical gardens and archeology from the days of the gladiators, sees cruise ships coming to and from the Amalfi Coast everyday. But, amongst the glamorous lifestyles of those sailing and the rich culture of Capri, lies a selection of fully stocked markets with Italy’s renowned flavoursome limoncello and olive oil with chilli.

Sailing along the 50-kilometer stretch of coastline along the Amalfi coast, positioned on the southern edge of Italy’s Sorrentine Peninsula, in the Campania region. Impressive villas, lemon groves and terraced vineyards floats on the sidelines of the coastal road between the port city of Salerno and clifftop Sorrento winds.

The beautiful island of Capri (TRAVEL DEPARTMENT)

Assembled by a wealthy merchant family in the 13th century, the Villa Rufolo has an affluent and illustrious past. The renowned Boccaccio, who is one of the earliest authors on the subject of the Italian renaissance, had a story published in 1353 which was about the villa, as well as its owner Decameron.

Being one of the largest and most expensive villas at its peak on the Amalfi Coast,  it played host to the King Robert II of Naples and other Norman royalty.

In all the chaos of the markets, music and bustling side streets - we escaped to the picturesque Campagnia. It is both mountainous and green, the area's history of volcanic activity has played a starring role in shaping the environment. The weather is warm, and one of the most captivating images is of oranges and lemons growing in green groves above the deep blue sea.

The coastline, specifically the Sorrento Peninsula, is striking and attractive. Out at sea lie more significant beauties which are the islands of Capri, Ischia and Procida.

Italy on a hot summer's day (Rema Mukena/Bristol Live)

Campania's cuisine is an array of local products, such as seafood, oranges lemons. Among the food to challenge your taste buds are authentic Neapolitan pizza, gelato, granita di limone - a refreshing crushed-ice lemon drink and Limoncello is the alcoholic speciality, but Campania also caters for those who enjoy a glass of wine in the sun.

I indulged in the history, culture and beaches. The charm of Campania won me over with it’s delicious cuisine, hours passing whilst sailing along the sea and excursions.

As the sun began to set, many locals and tourists began to gather in Ruffolo, also known as “la città della musica“ - the city of music.The Villa Rufolo has been the main point for an annual summer concert series, for the last couple of decades.  Visitors are welcomed by piano concerts, chamber music and a grand orchestral performance over the picturesque Amalfi coast.

Modern-day Pompeii may encompass a reputation of being the unremarkable satellite of Naples, but don’t be mistaken because this city is steeped with Italian archeology- the ruins of Pompeii. Evocative and haunting, the site stays as a reminder of the catastrophic forces that lie deep inside Vesuvius.

The coast (Rema Mukena/Bristol Live)

In the centre of the site lies the oldest surviving Roman amphitheatre - Pompeii Amphitheatre which gives insights into the gladiatorial culture of Rome. At 59 AD approximately, a conflict occurred between Pompeiians and residents of Nuceria in the midst of the games in the amphitheatre, leading to a 10-year ban on such events.

But, today when you visit Pompeii you’re greeted by a city with a deep history, still remembered to this day by locals and tourists. I went back in time by walking through the preserved streets of the city. You’re also greeted by Italian delicacies - bruschetta with mozzarella and parma ham, muscles, sea bass and pizza.

Today Pompeii is so much more than it’s fate and a collection of ruins. Our guided tour of the Roman town puts a spotlight on it’s astonishing state of preservation.

The streets and even the amphitheatre remain largely intact. A large portion of our perception of the Roman way of life, their habits, class system, social structure and domestic arrangements originated from Pompeii.

Amazing seafood at Grand Hotel Moon Valley (Rema Mukena/Bristol Live)

Buildings highlighted with murals and mosaics, while others inscribed with graffiti describing political events, romantic adventures and even tales of the time. This city has a slightly ghostly nature.

A ferry ride away from Pompeii, you’ll discover the enchanting island of Capri, where one of the most visited sights on the island can be found - Villa San Michele.

Villa San Michele is not a residence like another. It is rather a hushed tone which encompassed Axel Munthe’s thoughts and feelings about beauty and the wonderful unpredictability of life, but it allows audiences to create their own interpretation.

Whilst the architecture emphasises the magnificence of the landscape whilst also displaying a worthy framework for the works of art. The park clearly plays a major role in the Villa San Michele. It’s made up of statues overgrown with ivy and the mossy marble pieces dispersed around the garden.

Elements include mosaics, stone, marble and terracotta. There are several objects in wood, metal, ceramics and textiles. The villa highlights themes of nature, animals, death and evolving.

Walking through the villa, I began to realise that regardless of the quality of each individual object, what was important to Axel Munthe was the message they presented and the personal memories it evoked for him.

Longing to be back witnessing these beautiful views (TRAVEL DEPARTMENT)

Munthe dedicated a large portion of his life focusing on the construction of the villa and surrounding gardens. During this time, the countryside surrounding Capri was scattered with the remains of Roman villas, pieces of marble columns and statues buried.

Whilst the islanders worked the land they would find objects and name them Tiberius' things. After receiving these finds, Munthe began adding them to his collection of Roman, Etruscan, and Egyptian artifacts accrued during his frequent travels.

As golden hour struck, I was able to reflect on the many other objects available to view at Villa San Michele, the head of Medusa, the marble bust of the Emperor Tiberius, Tuscan furnishings from the 1700s, a Sicilian lamp in wrought iron, Roman frescoes and statues, a marble table decorated with Cosmatesque mosaics and an Egyptian sphinx, this has now become representation of Axel Munthe's residence and is positioned in one of the most panoramic spots in all of Villa San Michele.

Overall, Sorrento is a destination for those who take pleasure in the juxtaposition of a city with approbation of the past and the sprouting of the bloom. It took me on a journey, overlooking the Bay of Naples. Sorrento is a land of mysteries, colours, legends and history.

Beautiful beach in Italy (TRAVEL DEPARTMENT)

Whilst walking through the alleys in Sorrentos, encompassed by arches and flights of stairs, before reaching the centre, you breathe in the fresh sea air, you breathe in the atmosphere of those who have lived, passed, those to come and those who will continue to build the capital of Naples.

Travel Department (www.traveldepartment.co.uk ; 020 7099 9665) offer a 7-night group guided holiday to the Sorrento Coast, Pompeii and Capri from £949pp. Cost includes return flights from Bristol, 7-nights’ accommodation on a half board basis, transfers, guides and excursions, based on two sharing. Departing either 18 June or 11 August 2020.

https://www.traveldepartment.co.uk/search/?q=&g=true&c=GBP&dp=brs&co=italy&yy=n2020

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