Milan’s new Trattoria del Ciumbia sees the Italian hospitality group Triple Sea Food continue its mission of enhancing the gastronomic offer in the city’s Brera district, following the opening of Vesta, a fine Mediterranean eatery, and Casa Fiori Chiari, a gourmet pizzeria.
Brera, often described as the SoHo of Milan, boasts a rich tapestry of artistic heritage, where cafés once buzzed with neorealist filmmakers and designers seeking inspiration. In a bid to reference this storied past, Trattoria del Ciumbia boasts interiors by Dimorestudio (also behind the recent redesign of Milan’s Caruso Nuovo Bistrot) that channel the spirit of the 1960s artistic avant-garde, with creatives such as Piero Manzoni and Nanda Vigo influencing its aesthetic.
Benvenuti alla Trattoria del Ciumbia
The design-led journey at Trattoria del Ciumbia begins with a wood-and-glass box accented with lace curtains that create a visual barrier between indoors and outdoors. Following up is an aperitif area, which adheres to Italian style with a pewter counter with brass-profiled vitrines, in which an installation of reassembled plates is showcased.
On the right side, a central balcony leading to the basement extends the view to the second room, a beautiful retro space decorated with walnut wood panelling and custom floor tiles arranged in mosaic patterns in various hues of nudes, reds, yellows and greens. Vintage newspaper racks, coat hooks, and a series of watercolours depicting Italian rationalist architecture from the 1930s interrupt the essentiality of the wall boiserie.
Meanwhile, a checkerboard of square opaline ceiling lights set into liver-red painted ceiling panels illuminates the room’s dining area, along with a series of ‘Pietro’ mirror wall sconces from Dimoremilano, the Milanese studio’s contemporary furniture brand. The private dining room is somewhat concealed, featuring original ‘Carimate’ chairs by Vico Magistretti and striking Flos ‘Splugen Bräu’ hanging lamps by Pier Giacomo Castiglioni and Achille Castiglioni.
Downstairs, guests can seek refuge at the Disco Club, ideal for after-dinner drinks. A porthole in the steel-effect laminated panelled wall offers a glimpse of a perfectly stocked bar filled with wines and delicate cocktail ingredients, while a sound system provides music from the 1970s and the 1980s.
As for the menu, Trattoria del Ciumbia stays true to its Italian roots with a tempting selection of antipasti, primi piatti, and secondi piatti. From marinated sardines to Milanese-style risotto, each dish celebrates the region’s favourites. Indulgent desserts like Gelato al Fordilatte Mantecato fresco and Barbajada del Ciumbia round off the meal on a sweet note.
