At Versace, hairstylist Guido Palau created a sexy rock fringed look that had an android edge - think Rachael in Blade Runner. While at Marni, heavy-banged models with dead-straight dolly-bird hair was all very 1960s Photograph: Jo Jones/Observer
Seen at Bottega Veneta edging a jacket or breaking the long narrow silhouette of an evening dress, and at Etro as a statement peplum belt. At Emporio Armani, they resembled aprons in satin and ruffles Photograph: Jo Jones/Observer
Raf Simons will be a hard act to follow after the fashion crowd stood cheering for an eternity as he took his final bow at Jil Sander. The collection was simply exquisite, showing one after another of the most beautiful coats and dresses in blush pinks, coffee and pale grey. The perfect parting show Photograph: PR
This season, the duo said they took inspiration from 'baroque romanticism', which translated as golden embroideries that recalled baroque mirrors, frames and dinning room tapestries. Opening the show with heavily embellished capes, they followed with cherub and angel prints. We feel no expense was spared - as Stefano would say, 'Molto, molto lux!' Photograph: PR
Miuccia Prada took us on a psychedelic journey with this season's show; the silhouette and makeup gave a hard edge to geometric prints. Coats, collars and sleeves were scattered with crystals. The show was a stylist's dream Photograph: PR
At Gucci, Frida Giannini's show was based on, 'a dramatic sensuality, a dark glamour'. It conjured up a romantic pre-Raphaelite feel, with crystals embroidered into floral patterns and hand-sewn sequins. Capes finished the looks in forest-green feathers, plum and black leather. Pucci kept the silhouette simple with slashes of tulle across the body, while Bottega Veneta chose a similar colour palette for the body-contoured finale dresses in Japanese velvets Photograph: Jo Jones/Observer
Patent leather and shiny fabric coatings were scattered across the catwalks - from Marni's mustard patent coat to Jil Sander's black patent evening dress that appeared in a sea of blush pink and grey. Fendi united leather and wool in one piece - combining shine and matt Photograph: Jo Jones/Observer
Milan was definitely in military mode. Moschino’s Rossella Jardini designed to the beat of her own drum, and after much discussion we decided this is her tongue-in-cheek spin on the military theme. MaxMara's military-inspired duffle and toggle coats sat alongside fluid sailor-stripe palazzo pants and stripe knitwear worn with calf-length skirts and trousers with parachute-style gathered hems. If you are a fan of a khaki coat and a brass button, then look out for Victoria Beckham's military coats. I saw them up close in the Milan showroom and they are on my dream list Photograph: Jo Jones/Observer
New label SW1, the high-end shoe and handbag brand of Stuart Weitzman designed by Alvaro Gonzalez, referenced the work of Spanish architect Santiago Calatrava, using nice touches based on geometry and the 1930s art deco period, and creating details like the mosaic heel. Desert modernist Albert Frey, who worked with steel and plastic combined with wood and stone, influenced the , the contrasting textures and proportions of Raoul's collection. The curve was key and became the collections' motif, appearing as a laser cut in wool or a semicircle pocket detail on a tweed skirt or coat Photograph: Jo Jones/Observer
From the youthful 15-year-old Chloë Moretz at Sportmax to the timeless beauty of Helen Mirren, 66, at Dolce & Gabbana Photograph: Jo Jones/Observer
