Akira Isogawa has spent more than a quarter of a century as one of Australia’s most celebrated fashion designers. His pieces have been worn regularly by the likes of Cate Blanchett, he has shown on the catwalks of Paris and his eponymous label has been sold in high-end department stores around the globe. In recent years Isogawa has focused mostly on artistic collaborations. His latest is the costume design for Love Lock, a work by the choreographer Melanie Lane, which premieres with the Sydney Dance Company on 18 September.
In the early years of his label, Isogawa would source textiles from his native Japan – many of which arrived in kimono form, waiting to be unpicked. Some of those fabrics were used in his work over the decades but others remain in pristine condition in his Sydney workshop. Here, the fashion designer tells us about those cherished textiles, as well as sharing the story of two other important personal belongings.
What I’d save from my house in a fire
My collection of textiles from Kyoto, my birthplace in Japan. When I started my label in the 90s I went back home to visit family and my father, who worked for the local council, introduced me to traditional kimono makers and artisans who have perfected their practice over hundreds of years. Kyoto is known for producing kimonos made using the traditional Shibori technique.
I got to know the makers and established a relationship with them. I feel very privileged to have visited their showroom and chosen the material they designed and produced. I collected textiles from them over the next decade, the majority of it vintage. Some I used for my collection but some survived, and now hold a special place in my home collection.
My most useful object
That must be my scissors from Tokyo. A friend of mine, who is based there, was kind enough to get some great quality scissors made for me, handcrafted by specialist scissor makers. She brought them over to Sydney when she visited my studio back in 2009.
Before then I was using scissors I had purchased from a wholesaler and it was incredible the difference it made using such quality scissors. They’re quite light and sharp. I now have two good pairs. I have to get them professionally sharpened occasionally but they’ve lasted me 15 years and counting.
The item I most regret losing
A photo album from my mother. Eight years ago, I received a call from my now late father – this itself was quite unusual, as he was a quiet man. He was ringing to tell me he was selling his house, which was the house he was born in, so it was quite significant. Even though I left Japan in the mid-80s, I still had my room there, where I would stay when I visited, so I thought I’d better go back and save any sentimental objects.
In particular I wanted to grab a photo album that belonged to my mum, including images of her when she was little, even four or five years old, then again in her 20s when she met my father. These were beautiful black and white images, including a photograph of them dating captured in the Botanical Gardens in Kyoto.
I asked my father what had happened to photos and he told me he threw them away. When I asked him why, my father, who was in his 80s at the time, said that as he didn’t see himself living until 100, he only had a few years left – so decided to let go of everything. I didn’t want to argue with my father so I didn’t voice anything at the time but I feel regretful that it happened. I didn’t need the whole album, just a few photos. I’m not a sentimental person except when it comes to my family, and that was one item I was determined to keep.
Akira Isogawa has created the costume design for Melanie Lane’s Love Lock, premiering as part of Sydney Dance Company’s double bill Twofold from 18 to 28 September
