In the cool, still air of a Canberra autumn morning, more than 18,000 people gathered for the largest Anzac Day Dawn Service in three years at the Australian War Memorial.
Due to the reconstruction activity at the memorial shifting the service to the west, into the Sculpture Garden, it was delivered in a different setting. But the poignancy and formality were unchanged with the thousands standing silently as the Last Post rang out while the first fingers of light wound their way across the sky overhead
The director of the memorial, Matt Anderson, described at as heartening to see so many pay their respects after two years of COVID-wrought upheaval to one of Australia's most important traditions.
He has attended many Anzac Day Dawn Services around the world from Kabul, in Afghanistan where he served as Australia's ambassador, to Hellfire Pass in Thailand, Guadalcanal in Solomon Islands and Hyde Park Corner in London. Each one, he said, was always powerful and emotionally moving.
"It is always a very special occasion," he said.
"I often reflect, on days like this, how extraordinary it is that so many people take the time and effort to come together for the Dawn Service on this day; it's something that few other countries do."
"It's a powerful reaffirmation of this country's respect for the men and women who gave their lives."
Dignitaries, together with thousands of veterans and their families, many of them young children rugged up in colourful beanies and scarves against the chill, spread out among the statues and trees of the Sculpture Garden, with the relocated Stone of Remembrance as the focal point.
A veteran of the Malayan, Borneo and Vietnam conflicts, Michael Ruffin, gave the address, recounting an incident on New Years Eve in 1968, when his small platoon came under attack from a large contingent of North Vietnamese, numbering around 80, who peppered the Australians with small arms fire and mortars.
Heavily outnumbered and outgunned and with no hope of immediate support, the Australians ran for the cover of a treeline about 100 metres away as the enemy bullets flew around them.
"In hindsight, it seems inconceivable that five men could run across 100 metres of open ground whilst being subjected to that amount of fire and not receive a single gunshot wound," he said.
"To this day, I can't believe that not one of us was hit.
"If someone had been hit, then that would have been the end of it because you don't leave a mate behind.
"Every Anzac Day, I reflect on that experience and am so grateful that we all survived. We still keep in touch to this day."
As is now a common practice at remembrance services around the country, the haunting notes of the didgeridoo deliver a uniquely Indigenous tone to proceedings.
That role this year in Canberra was performed by Leading Aircraftman Tarryn Roach, a 23-year-old Worimi man who grew up in Newcastle and is now stationed at the Williamtown air base. He has been playing the didgeridoo since he was eight years old and Monday's performance was his first Dawn Service in Canberra .
A tiny flash of light in the complete darkness provided the signal for him to start playing.
"I don't really have a plan on what to play, it's off the top of my head; I just play what ever feels right for the occasion," he said.
"I threw in a bit of dingo and kookaburra there at the end.
"It was a bit cold to get the lips warmed up to play, but I'm so glad to be here in Canberra for this."
It is the first Anzac Day since forces withdrew from Afghanistan, where 41 Australians died in service.
Canberra's commemorations will include the first full veterans' march in three years.
The RSL ACT branch has 41 contingents registered for the march, equal to between 850 and 900 marchers.
Governor-General David Hurley will deliver an address to the nation from the Australian War Memorial following the march.
This year marks the 80th anniversary of Anzac Day commemorations at the memorial.
People wishing to visit the War Memorial's galleries and commemorative area can do so from midday but will require tickets. The Last Post ceremony, which begins at 4.45pm, is already fully booked.
The Anzac Day dawn service from Gallipoli, Turkey, will be broadcast on ABC TV at 12.30pm (AEST). The dawn service from Villers-Bretonneux will be broadcast on the ABC at 1.30pm (AEST).
After two years of COVID disruptions, Canberra Services Club is also hoping to draw the community back together to commemorate Anzac Day at the club's old site in Manuka, where its clubhouse burned down more than a decade ago.
A dawn service will be held at the club's site, at the corner of Canberra Avenue and Manuka Circle, at 6.30am, followed by breakfast and two-up at the club's Barton premises - at 51 Blackall Street - from 7.30am.
While fear and uncertainty still linger, club president Mike Kinniburgh expected the return of two-up to the club's Anzac Day program would be a big drawcard.
ANZAC DAY 2022
Where to commemorate - overview:
- Australian War Memorial dawn service: 5.30am
- Canberra Services Club dawn service: 6.30am
- Aboriginal and Torres Strait Islander Veterans ceremony: 8am
- RSL Veterans' march: 9.30am
- War Memorial galleries open (tickets required): 12pm
- Gallipoli dawn service TV broadcast: 12.30pm
- Villers-Bretonneux dawn service TV broadcast: 1.30pm
- War Memorial Last Post ceremony: 4.45pm
