A recent trip to Rome reminded me of the deliciousness of simple flavours put together well. The right root vegetable with the right herb, a gutsy ingredient used sparingly to season another ingredient that lends texture and body to absorb that gutsiness. Very often, you can use the humblest of ingredients to produce a stunning feast, with just some time in a pan and a sprinkling of something special. So here is a simple but wonderful feast using guanciale, sage and bay to season a silky mess of soft onions and potato, and oranges and olives to add sparkle to a crisp, refreshing salad.
Potato, guanciale and sage gratin (pictured top)
The crisp breadcrumbs make a tantalisingly crunchy top for these golden potatoes with their sweet onions, salty pork and earthy sage. The gratin can be reheated several times, with the flavours becoming richer and more sumptuous with every sitting.
Prep 15 min
Cook 1 hr 30 min
Serves 4-6
1.2kg floury potatoes, scrubbed clean
A squeeze of lemon juice
4-5 tbsp olive oil
140g guanciale, or pancetta or thick-cut streaky bacon, cut into small strips
3 medium onions, peeled and finely sliced
6 fresh bay leaves
3 fat garlic cloves, peeled and thinly sliced
12 sage leaves, shredded
300ml double cream
300ml milk
80g parmesan or grana padano
60g breadcrumbs
Cut the potatoes as thinly as possible (ideally use a mandoline, without doing any damage to yourself) and put in a large bowl of cold water as you slice them – this will help get rid of any starchiness; add a squeeze of lemon to the bowl and the potatoes will stay snowy-white.
Put a large frying pan on a medium-high heat and pour in three tablespoons of olive oil. Add the guanciale and cook for four to five minutes, until the fat turns translucent. Add the onions and bay leaves, season generously, then saute, stirring regularly, for six to eight minutes. Stir in the garlic and sage, cook for a further two to three minutes, until the garlic softens and the whole silky mess is smelling beautifully enticing.
Heat the oven to 210C (190C fan)/410F/gas 6½. Measure the cream and milk into a jug and season generously. Drain the potatoes, pat them dry (ish), then arrange a third of them over the base of a wide, deep ovenproof dish. Top the potatoes with a third of the onion mix, followed by a third of the grated cheese. Season generously, then repeat the layers, seasoning well between each one, before finishing with the last of the potatoes. Pour over the cream and milk mix, push the potatoes down, then cover with the last of the onions, breadcrumbs and parmesan. Drizzle with a tablespoon or two of olive oil, then bake for 45-50 minutes, until golden and bubbling.
Orange, black olive and chicory salad
A grown-up, but incredibly moreish salad balancing crisp chicory with sweet orange, tangy olives and lots of leafy parsley. It will provide a wonderful contrast to the creamy potatoes above, but would also work well with any baked potato feast.
Prep 25 min
Serves 4-6
3 large heads chicory, leaves separated
2 large oranges, segmented
12-14 good-quality black olives, pitted and chopped
A large bunch of parsley, roughly chopped
20g parmesan or grana padano, finely grated (optional)
For the dressing
4 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil
1 tbsp white-wine vinegar
1 tsp dijon mustard
Juice of ½ orange
Salt and pepper
Put all the dressing ingredients in a clean jam jar, season generously and shake well.
To assemble the salad, put the chicory leaves and orange segments in a large bowl and add the olives and parsley. Pour over the dressing, sprinkle in the parmesan if using, and toss to coat. Taste and adjust the seasoning as need be. Serve with the bubbling hot gratin.
