I cooked at a festival near Bristol recently where another chef made pasta tossed with peas; whole peas that burst with each mouthful and a puree rich with basil and garlic. I jumped to help his team pod the peas, because I love this simple, meditative heralding of the summer (I also aways gobble a few raw while looking forward to how good they’ll taste once cooked). Here, the peas add bursts of sweetness to silky braised onions and fennel, with sausages falling apart in a garlicky meaty jus. Perfection with a lemony salad.
Late summer sausage and pea cassoulet with gremolata crumb
A rich, life-affirming affair with that magical combination of beans, peas and sausages.
Prep 15 min
Cook 1 hr
Serves 4
6 large sausages
2 bulbs fennel
½ head of garlic
3 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil
2 onions, peeled and sliced
8-10 thyme branches
A few bay leaves
1 guajillo chilli, deseeded (optional)
Sea salt and black pepper
400g new potatoes, halved
100ml white wine, or dry sherry
350ml chicken stock
350g podded fresh peas, or a mix of peas and green beans
400g cooked borlotti or cannellini beans
For the gremolata topping
A handful of chopped parsley
1 lemon, zested
120g breadcrumbs
Peel the casings off the sausages, then divide each sausage into three or four pieces and roll them into meatballs. Top and tail the fennel (save the thick stalks for stocks or salads), and peel off and discard the outer leaves if they are looking old. Cut the fennel bulbs in half, then cut across into thick slices. Peel and slice four garlic cloves.
Put a large, wide saute pan on a medium-high heat and add a tablespoon of oil. Once it’s hot, saute the sausage meatballs, turning occasionally, for seven to eight minutes, until golden all over, then use a slotted spoon to transfer to a plate.
Turn down the heat under the pan to medium, then add the onion, fennel, thyme, bay leaves and chilli, season generously with sea salt and sweat for about 12-14 minutes, until the vegetables are soft, translucent and smelling fragrant. Stir in the sliced garlic and potatoes, cook for another few minutes, then pour in the wine and stock.
Return the meatballs to the pan, cover and cook for 15 minutes. Add the peas and beans, and cook for a final five minutes – some of the meatballs may break up a bit, which will only add richness to the dish. Taste and adjust the seasoning accordingly.
Turn the grill to high. Finely chop the remaining garlic with the parsley, and mix with the lemon zest and breadcrumbs Scatter the crumb mix over the top of the casserole, drizzle with two tablespoons of oil and grill for five to six minutes, until the crumbs are toasted and the whole cassoulet is bubbling and smelling intensely tempting. Serve with the butter leaf salad below.
Butter leaf salad with burnt lemon and tarragon dressing
A sprightly, herby dressing for sweet, buttery lettuce.
Prep 5 min
Cook 15 min
Serves 4
1 butter leaf lettuce
2 medium spring onions, trimmed and finely chopped
1 small knob parmesan, finely grated (optional)
For the dressing
120ml extra-virgin olive oil
1 lemon, finely sliced
1 garlic clove, skin on
1 tsp dijon mustard
1 small handful tarragon leaves
1 tsp honey
Salt and pepper
Put a small frying pan on a medium heat and pour in a teaspoon of the oil. Add the lemon slices and garlic, and char for five minutes, until the lemon is nicely blackened and the garlic is soft all over. Slip the skin off the garlic, put the flesh and the charred lemon in a small blender with all the other dressing ingredients, then blitz smooth. Taste and adjust the seasoning.
Wash the lettuce, then separate the head into leaves. Pat dry and arrange on a plate in a rose pattern. Scatter on the spring onions, drizzle over the dressing and top with a little grated parmesan, if using. Serve at once.
