Breaking through the icy surface of Lake St Moritz is proving to be an issue.
It’s around 9am and my hair has a crystallised coating as it’s -6C outside. For several days, I’ve been dreading the thought of submerging myself in the freezing waters – worried about the pain, the possibility of a heart attack from cold water shock, mud between my toes and fishes swimming around my feet.
But I’ve been told this is the star attraction in a winter destination that shimmers as brightly as the frost sparkling on trees.
Wearing a robe, swimming costume, woolly hat, gloves and hiking boots, I’ve trekked 300m around this beautiful lake surrounded by soaring snowy mountains, woods and the town of St Moritz along one bank.
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Bracing myself, I don wetsuit shoes, ditch the robe and clamber down to the water’s edge. And then I’m in, up to my knees.
While it’s incredibly cold, I’m surprised not to feel any pain. Kneeling down further, the water now up to my shoulders, I keep my hands out and arms stretched. Alex – my butler at the nearby Carlton Hotel – reminds me to breathe and focus on the surrounding nature. My mind clears and I am calm. I notice how clear the lake is as I spot the pebbles under my feet.
Before I know it, I’ve been in for 90 seconds (the maximum time for beginners). I hop out with renewed vigour as I feel a hot adrenaline rush burst through my body.
Synonymous with celebrities and millionaires, St Moritz kickstarted winter tourism in Switzerland 150 years ago. Since then, the town with its trademark sun logo has hosted two Olympic games and developed into a thriving ski resort where being seen is as important as the winter sports.
Originally built for Tsar Nicholas II as a summer residence, the 111-year-old Carlton Hotel embodies the glitz and glamour of the destination.
St Moritz map:
Everything here is about unwinding and connecting with nature. All 60 opulent rooms and suites are south-facing with bewitching views of the lake and peaks of the Engadin Valley.
Still brimming with endorphins, I head straight to the Carlton’s deluxe spa to defrost in its warm, bubbling indoor/outdoor pool.
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As I get in, there is an immense tingle from my feet to my knees, followed by goosebumps. I breathe in the Alpine crisp air and gaze at the wintry countryside through steaming effervescing waters.
Back inside, the spa boasts a series of saunas and steam rooms with varying temperatures and an array of sublime treatments. Later I experience the Moving Mountains massage – where my feet are washed in Alpine salt and rosemary, before a dreamy hot stones massage from head to toe.
Designed by Carlo Rampazzi, the hotel’s interiors are extravagant and flamboyant. The light-flooded Bel Etage has two historic roaring fires and luxurious sofas with gigantic windows framing the tranquil Alps.
How to plan your trip
Carlton Hotel St. Moritz (carlton-stmoritz.ch) has B&B rooms from CHF 880/£777 per night based (two sharing), with CHF 100/£88 food and beverage voucher per adult per day.
Despite it receiving the highest award Michelin can offer (three Keys), the hotel has a relaxed and fun ambience. The Carlton Bar drinks menu offers a list of Instagrammable cocktails and there is the quirky Fondue Gondola experience – which involves sitting in an outside Gondola, dipping bread, potatoes and pickles into a boiling five-cheese fondue.
There are also two restaurants – the Grand Restaurant and the two Michelin starred restaurant Da Vittorio. Food is also served on the glorious Sun Terrace.
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Feeling invincible after my ice bathing session, I head to the floodlit 6km Preda-Burgün sled run. The start point of Preda is not accessible by car. Instead sledders must get there via the world heritage Rhaetian railway – a magical train journey through deep gorges, tunnels and over multiple viaducts.
The tobogganing track is the Albula pass road, closed for winter, which descends 400m to the town of Bürgen. Although ‘family friendly’, it’s still incredibly fast, with tight corners and steep drops. It is possible to spend a whole day doing this as there are special trains that run from Bürgen back to Preda to have another go.
Other more sedate activities include a traditional horse carriage ride around the lake and woods, a guided tour of St Moritz and ice skating.
Lastly, there is the opportunity to do some fantastic people watching.
I try to spot a celebrity in the main town where streets are packed with designer shops. One afternoon, I have lunch up the mountain watching the skiers on the Corviglia while quaffing champagne and feasting on local delicacies at the Salastrains restaurant.
But ultimately – no matter how big your budget or claim to fame – everybody in St Moritz is made to feel like a star.
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