Tucked away in the arches of an old boat store in one of the most iconic harbours in Wales is perhaps the best spot for a flat white and a croissant in the country. The Stowaway is a very tiny but very creative space set in a disused Victorian harbour-side arch in Tenby. It's popular with locals and tourists alike, said owner Crispin Cutting, who took on the empty and damp space eight years ago with his partner Maria Galdes.
Together, they've transformed the Grade II listed arch into a destination coffee spot that serves arguably the finest coffee in the seaside town with customers raving about the "quirky gem of a coffee shop". And with a view to die for - right over Tenby harbour and North Beach - it's no wonder it attracts a healthy passer-by trade as well as loyal returning locals.
Found on the unassuming walk up the harbour slip - known as Pennilesscove Hill - the bright yellow doors of Stowaway are an eye-catching contrast to the weather-beaten peeling doorways which conceal the openings to a series of stone archways. Colourful bunting flaps lazily in the breeze while a multitude of hand-written chalkboards haphazardly placed on the pavement outside lay claim to "Good coffee" and a Stowaway special: Welsh rarebit chorizo paninis.
Crispin thinks the secret to their success is the fact nearly everyone who stumbles across the little café thinks they're the first to discover the quirky delights inside. It's possibly the smallest coffee shop in all of Pembrokeshire. The low and dark space stretches back far enough to squeeze in a counter laden with baked goods and several tables with seats made from old church pews. It's quirky, it's cosy and above all it's friendly.
"We really focus on being family-friendly," said Crispin, who originally started the venture so he spent less time working away from his own family. "We want kids on the tables and dogs underneath."
It's an approach that's had resounding success: "Everybody who comes here feels like they were the one who found it," he continued. "It gives the impression it's their treasure chest they've found."
Whether they come for the locally-caught fresh crab made in to delicious sandwiches, the superbly made fresh coffee, the scrumptious cakes or the additive free locally-sourced Mary’s Farmhouse ice cream, nearly everyone raves about the delightful, quirky gem of a coffee shop. "A must if you want good coffee and great food," said one fan on Trip Advisor in May this year.
It's thanks to great feedback on Trip Advisor and social media that they've gained quite a following, added Crispin.
People enjoy the feeling of being "hidden away", said Crispin, especially on a miserable damp day. With the interior of the former boat store lined with wooden planks - done by Crispin himself - and the soft orange glow from the table lamps, it really does feel cosy indeed. But most people take their melted cheese paninis or scotch eggs to the harbour - which is just a stone's throw away - and savour their goodies along with the iconic view.
It's become a favourite coffee and snack stop for many: "We went back a few times during our stay because it is undoubtedly the best coffee in Tenby," said one happy customer. "If you care about coffee, come here. They've decked out a little cave/tunnel/archway space themselves - the owner is also a talented carpenter."
In the summer evenings, they sell sharing cocktails and glasses of white wine, which go down very well, said Crispin. "People like the grab-and-go things," he explained. Popular offerings include their special Pembrokeshire sausage and Welsh cheddar and Halen Mor black garlic sauce and their Gruyere and apricot croissants. It's worth mentioning their scotch eggs too, which got a resounding recommendation from one fan: "Strolled past this place on the way down the slipway so popped in for a takeaway coffee (lovely) and picked up homemade scotch eggs - spicy chorizo, Cumberland versions. Can thoroughly recommend these, great quality and still with runny yolk."
"We wanted to provide good coffee and good quality food in Tenby harbour," Crispin added. "We thought there was a demand for it."
Judging by the reviews, they've hit the spot. "A friendly chat and great pastry's [sic] and cakes just next to the harbour where you can sit and enjoy the view," one happy customer raved. While another enthused: "What a find, totally unexpected little spot overlooking the harbour. Quirky, great atmosphere. Excellent choice of really tasty savoury and sweet food, drinks, not to mention the delicious ice cream."
There are also dairy-free and vegan options to suit all dietary requirements. Such has been the success of their independent hipster coffee shop, they are looking to expand into the next-door arch. Their application is with the planning department and they're just waiting for the go-ahead.
So if you're looking for a quick warm-up after being on the beach with your family this summer, there is no better place than this not-so-hidden gem at the heart of one of the busiest - and most picturesque - holiday destinations in Wales. You might find yourself going back again and again, like this person: "Unique location on the slipway down to the harbour beach. Stopped for takeaway coffee on the first morning of our holiday and had to return every other morning."
