Weaving through a forest of mangroves along a path leading to the ocean, I tip-toe carefully through the sand. After dark, there is little light pollution on Sierra Leone’s remote, southerly Turtle Islands, allowing stars to dazzle clearly overhead.
Using the moon as my torchlight, I shuffle along the coastline, scanning for any movements along the shore.
Between November and April, five species of sea turtle come to nest here as they have done for hundreds of years. Travelling thousands of miles, their journey is far from easy but the difficulties don’t end once they arrive.
“Sea turtles have been nesting for thousands of years,” explains marine conservationist Eddie Aruna, my local Sierra Leonian guide.
But coastal erosion and sea level rises are having an impact on their nesting sites.
“Turtles always return to their native beaches, but if these no longer exist they will discharge their eggs into the sea,” he tells me.
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Other issues include poaching for meat and eggs.
Since 2012, Eddie has been working hard to protect the five species of turtles that nest here, focusing on community engagements and recruiting local monitors through his NGO Reptile and Amphibian Program Sierra Leone (RAP-SL).
His work has earned him a Tusk Conservation in Africa Award, presented by the charity’s royal patron Prince William at a glittering ceremony in London on November 27 in partnership with Ninety One. Along with a trophy, Eddie has been awarded a grant of £75,000, sponsored by Defender, to continue his work and reach more communities along Sierra Leone’s coastline.
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He already has several other project sites, including neighbouring Sherbro Island where Hollywood actor Idris Elba – whose father hailed from Sierra Leone – is developing an eco-resort.
Stretching for 400km along the Atlantic Ocean, the West African country’s coastline has huge potential as a marine and winter sun destination – especially when direct flights operated by newly formed flag carrier Air Sierra Leone launch between London Gatwick and Freetown on December 2.
Here are some of the best beaches to visit:
River No. 2 Beach
Easily reached from capital city Freetown, the jewel in Sierra Leone’s beach crown earned its reputation by gaining the ultimate seal of paradisiacal approval – being used as a backdrop for a Bounty advert. Mountains and thick tropical vegetation cradle soft white sand beaches lapped by gentle waves, making this an easy place to relax and swim. Essentially, this is a lagoon where the river meets the ocean, allowing for laidback kayak paddles and fishing trips.
Tokeh Beach
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A collection of comfortable bungalows and suites within metres of the waterfront, this is the closest you’ll find to a smart beachside resort along this coastline (for now). Step straight onto a wide-open bay, especially beautiful at sunrise and sunset when fishermen sail past in brightly painted wooden pirogue boats. Watch them carry their hauls onto the beach, where women sift through the best catch to sell at local markets. This is one of the best places to sit and watch local life unfold, with stretches of sand large enough to provide a stage for volleyball and football games. Get here via an easy 40-minute road transfer from Freetown.
Lumley Beach
Fringing Sierra Leone’s busy port-side capital, these urban sands are the country’s answer to South Beach or Copacabana. Come here to drink at late night bars, dance to Afrobeat in clubs or go for after-dinner walks along the surf. Loved by local residents, it’s rarely empty – but this is a place for socialising rather than solitude. Some of the best upscale bars, restaurants and hotels cluster around the Aberdeen area, although the beach extends for 5km south. Find basketball courts, a running promenade and even a golf course.
Banana Islands
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This wild, laidback archipelago with castaway Robinson Crusoe appeal lies off the coast of Freetown but feels much further away. Getting there is an adventure, requiring a 40-minute ride in a wooden pirogue from Kent, an hour outside Freetown. Once ashore, the place slows down at Bafa Resort, a stylish glamping hideaway in the forest. Along with snorkelling, diving and hiking trails in the forest, there are opportunities to learn about the country’s complex cultural heritage. Ruins of churches and colonial-era buildings are remnants of the slave trade which cast a shadow over the islands until they later became a settlement for liberated Africans.
How to do it
Rainbow Tours (rainbowtours.co.uk; 0208 131 2883) offers a 10-night Sierra Leone Made Simple tailor-made tour from £3,145pp, including mixed board accommodation, activities and transfers; flights extra.
Visit flysierraleone.com for more information on the new flights.
The Tusk Awards in partnership with Ninety One recognise dedicated, forward-thinking individuals with inspirational stories and incredible impact from across the continent. For more information see tusk.org.
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