What do Meghan Markle, Michelle Obama, Khloe Kardashian, Kate Middleton and, probably, your best mate have in common? They all own a Self-Portrait dress.
Very few fashion labels manage to appeal, and be accessible, to so many different women but Malaysian-born Han Chong bridged a gap when he created his aspirational, yet affordable, clothing line.
"There are plenty of brands out there designing luxury fashion but it’s not accessible." Chong tells the Standard. "There has always been a massive gap between high street and luxury, never anything in between. I wanted to be able to bring great design and quality, at an honest price point, to a wider audience."
It wasn't just the label's affordability that caught women’s attention when it launched five years ago, Self-Portrait also had an instantly recognisable aesthetic. "My focus at the start was to establish a recognisable signature - it helped get the brand noticed," explains Chong who moved from Malaysia to study a degree in womenswear at Central Saint Martins in London.
Chong’s first design, the Azaelea dress, was crafted from cut-out guipure lace and the delicate design gave a fresh and contemporary spin on traditional florals. During the summer of 2015 it was a surprise if you went to a wedding and didn't see someone wearing the Azaelea.
"The Azaelea, is the original Self-Portrait icon which got the brand noticed and since its release, we’ve done a version of the dress in every collection," says Chong. "Through wholesale alone, the Azaelea generates thousands of orders per season."
You'd think the staggering popularity of Self-Portrait's OG signature would make it less appealing to the A-list customer, but it's been quite the opposite.
In 2015 Games of Thrones actress Maise Williams wore a crimson version of the Azaelea on the red carpet at the Screen Actors Guild Awards and was one of numerous celebrities to favour the £290 Self-Portrait dress over haute couture that season.
To date, Self-Portrait's roll call of A-list fans includes Michelle Obama, Beyoncé, Margot Robbie, Reece Witherspoon, Khloe Kardashian, Zendaya, Priyanka Chopra, Kendall Jenner, Jessica Biel and Chrissy Teigen.
What Chong has produced is not a one-hit wonder, though, but a recognisable pattern that has become the brand's trademark and engrained in Self-Portrait's DNA, which Chong has since developed into bridal, footwear, eyewear and accessories.
Explaining the inspiration behind the pattern that has become synonymous with the label, Chong says: “I think women want to wear pieces that are feminine yet functional. For me, lace is the ultimate feminine fabric but to fit into modern lifestyles, it needed to be updated for women to wear day-to-day. It’s versatile in its nature so you can create fabrics that are striking and bold or subtle and organic.”
Self-Portrait's designs have even had the seal of approval from the most high profile clientele: the British royals. The Duchess of Cambridge wore a £320 Pleated Crochet Floral Maxi Dress to the premiere of A Street Cat Names Bob in 2016. Not deterred by the fact that American socialite Paris Hilton sported the same number just days before at the amfAR Inspiration Gala.
The Duchess of Sussex, however, has a more enduring love for the London-based brand, first debuting a Self-Portrait dress at the height of her Suits fame in 2016. She has gone on to style three of its intricately-detailed garments since her engagement to Prince Harry in 2017, proving the ability of Chong’s designs to grow along with the women who wear them.
The now pregnant duchess was most recently seen in a custom striking red midi dress on her first official tour of Tonga in October 2018. And, unsurprising, the continuous appearance of the label in the duchess’s wardrobe has had an impact on the already commercially successful brand.
“Three dresses have become new icons for Self-Portrait. The Pleated Crochet Floral Maxi worn by HRH the Duchess of Cambridge, the Cold Shoulder Floral Printed Dress and the Red Embroidered Midi worn by HRH the Duchess of Sussex. They've sold over a hundred units each week since they were worn,” says Chong.
The reason for Self-Portrait's universal appeal? “Self Portrait is for real women, living real lives,” says Chong. “When I’m designing, I always think about what women want to wear. They want to feel feminine and empowered, but their clothes have to be functional at the same time. We have been working to diversify our collections so women can live their lives in Self-Portrait.”
It's in that spirit, of listening to his customer, that Chong has let his fans choose their favourite pieces to bring back for the brand's five-year anniversary. The Icons Collection is made up of a selection of the brand's best-selling signatures.
“Our customers have been so supportive, we wanted to do something that for them," says Chong. "The Icons Collection is for them. Not only did they select their favourite styles, we were overwhelmed by their personal stories about their experiences in Self-Portrait at birthdays, graduations and weddings.”
Five years on and Self-Portrait is only just getting started. Since launching with its first major stockist, Selfridges, in 2014, the label now has 375 stockists covering 70 countries worldwide, as well as its own flagship store in Mayfair which opened last year. Its rapid growth has also earned Self-Portrait a spot on the New York Fashion Week schedule and the brand's sixth show takes place this Saturday.
At a time when retailers and designers are struggling to find their place in the current commercial climate, Self-Portrait's niche of affordable luxury will ensure it stays popular for years to come - just like its timeless sartorial styles.
