We’re in the thick of a wellness revolution – just ask Celeste Barber. Entering the fray is the wine industry, whose makers are turning their attention to mid-strength products that cater to consumer interest in healthier living.
So, what is a mid-strength wine? In short, it’s a wine that’s lower in alcohol. And while the specifics vary depending on who you ask, 6 to 8% alcohol by volume seems to be the sweet spot – though some experts say anything up to 10% fits the bill.
Wherever you draw the line, two questions remain: could mid-strength prove a heavyweight in the industry? And do they taste any good?
Paul Turale, general manager of marketing for Wine Australia, says the opportunity is undeniable.
“The value of low-alcohol sales has been growing at 30% per annum over the last five years and researchers have forecast growth of around 14% per annum over the next five years,” he says. By 2026, sales of low-alcohol products are projected to reach about A$3bn.
“Health and wellness has been a global trend that’s really shaken up the alcoholic drinks market.”
For winemakers, the future of low-alcohol drops is promising. Helen McCarthy, director of winemaking for Accolade Wines, says 58% of Australian consumers are trying to actively reduce their alcohol intake, with millennials leading the charge.
“They’re interested in making healthier choices, but they still want the experience and social aspect of drinking wine,” McCarthy says. “So mid-strength wines are really allowing that group to still enjoy wine while meeting their goals of trying to look after themselves a bit more.”
McCarthy predicts 25% of Accolade’s sales will soon come from this emerging category.
While the health benefits are a clear drawcard for drinkers, so too are the styles typically associated with lower ABV. JonJo McEvoy, director of Fin Wines in the Yarra Valley, says people are looking for fresh, high-acid drops that can be enjoyed in the warm Australian climate – characteristics common to low-alcohol choices.
“With minimal intervention winemaking, we pick fruit for acid which also results in a wine with a lower alcohol content,” he says. “The lower alcohol content reduces the ‘heat’ in the wine, resulting in a higher drinkability factor.”
Making drops that are naturally low in alcohol is an appealing prospect, but removing alcohol from full-strength wine is not straightforward.
“Alcohol is a really unique compound,” says Dr Wes Pearson, a research scientist for the Australian Wine Research Institute. “It adds texture, weight, mouthfeel and heat to the palate, and of course there’s the physical effects to your body.”
When alcohol is removed, it takes with it most of the compounds responsible for aroma and flavour.
“Wine isn’t like other products where you can just have a list of ingredients on the back label. It’s pretty much a natural product made from grapes,” Pearson says. “So you are limited in what you can use to recreate the effect of alcohol in the product.”
For now, low-alcohol wine is a palatable compromise between traditional full-strength drops and total abstinence. “It still looks like wine at mid-strength, whereas at zero alcohol it’s much harder to replicate the full experience,” McCarthy says.
Meanwhile, Pearson and his colleagues are researching new techniques at the University of Adelaide’s no and low-alcohol (Nolo) trial scale research facility, which allows winemakers to batch-test new low-alcohol wine products.
“The more we learn, the better the wines are getting,” McCarthy says. “And hopefully we can take some market share from beer.”
Tasted and rated mid-strength wines under $30
State of Light, 2022 Sauvignon Blanc, Marlborough, New Zealand (RRP $19.99) Alcohol 7%
Bright aromatics, with passionfruit and guava on the palate, this zippy little number will make you salivate with its crisp and refreshing finish. Pair it with cheeses such as goat, gouda or gruyere.
T’Gallant, Light & Fresh Brut Cuvée NV, Mornington Peninsula, Victoria (RRP $14.99) Alcohol 5%
Full of fizz, this affordable white blend gives notes of stone fruit and citrus, with a crisp, acidic finish that pairs well with salmon, scallops or risotto. While it’s a very different experience compared with more traditional sparkling wines, it’s a good entry point for mid-strength novices.
Fin Wines, I’m All Ears, Sparkling Prosecco, Yarra Valley, Victoria (RRP $28) Alcohol 9.7%
Made from glera grapes grown by Box Grove Vineyard in Tabilk, central Victoria, the folks at Fin Wines have produced a crisp, creamy and complex sparkling with notes of citrus and pear. It goes well with with cheese, prosciutto, stuffed mushrooms if you’re feeling fancy – or a bag of chips if you’re not.
Tempus Two, Lighten Up Pinot Noir, Multi-Regional Blend, South Australia (RRP $17.99) Alcohol 6.8%
Juicy, smooth and easy to drink. This pinot may be light on the palate, but it’s packed with red and black berries. As the weather cools, pair it with roast chook, pork chops and brassicas.
