Wales is known for its beautiful and varied collection of castles, from Beaumaris in the north to Pembroke in the south, with more than 400 in between.
Some, of course, are better-known and more visible than others. Cardiff Castle is inescapable as it stares down St Mary Street in the centre of the Welsh capital, while Castell Coch continues to wow as you pass it while driving on the A470.
Further west, you have the impressive castles of Pembroke and Kidwelly, both central to the towns that surround them. But if you travel along a quiet, single-track road in Carmarthenshire, you’ll come across something a bit different.
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Standing at 300 feet above the Afon Cennen below, Carreg Cennen doesn’t just loom over the countryside, it towers. It’s widely regarded as one of the best ancient attractions anywhere, with Countryfile magazine referring to it “the most romantic ruin” in the country, while The Telegraph listed it as one of the best 10 places to take your children in Wales. But if the castle itself and its magnificent location, perched on the edge of a cliff-face, does not make it wondrous enough, what lies beneath certainly does.
The history of Carreg Cennen Castle
The castle dates back to at least the 13th century, but Roman coins discovered at the site suggest that people occupied the land centuries earlier. Its previous owners include Sir Rhys ap Thomas and King Edward I, who captured the castle in 1277.
King Edward gave the castle to a soldier named John Giffard, who had supported the king in his conflict with Welsh prince Llywelyn ap Gruffudd. Giffard then rebuilt Carreg Cennen into the impressive structure that it became in subsequent centuries.
Under English control, the castle was attacked by Owain Glyndwr in 1403 and was damaged further during the War of the Roses later in the 15th century.
By the 19th century it was owned by the Cawdor family, until they sold it to the Morris family in 1963 ‘by accident’ - you can read more about that here. Today it is owned by Margaret Morris and her husband Bernard Llewellyn.
Where is it?
Carreg Cennen Castle is situated around five miles from the town of Llandeilo, and around 19 miles east of Carmarthen. From the village of Ffairfach on the outskirts of Llandeilo, take a right on the A476 heading east and travel down an unmarked road until you reach the village of Trap, where you will find signs directing you to the castle.
From the M4, leave the motorway at Pont Abraham roundabout and take the A483 towards Ammanford. Travel through Tycroes and Ammanford and take a left onto Wern Ddu Road. Continue north until you get to Blaengweche, where you’ll see a signpost for the castle directing you east towards Trap.
What does the castle have to offer?
As well as the spectacular views and walks, Carreg Cennen Castle has also become an extremely popular spot for loved-up couples to tie the knot. It also welcomes school trips, and stands at the top of a hill which separates it from a working farm. There is also a large car park, a gift shop and a tea room - one that doesn’t just serve tea: here you can order food, a milkshake and even a nice beer or a glass of wine as you take in the scenery.
Tell us more about this cave
In a corner of the inner ward you’ll find a set of steps leading down into the bowels of the castle. Walk down the steps, descend through a cliff-edge tunnel and keep walking through a precarious and pitch black tunnel carved into the rock for as long as you dare. According to Coflein, the online catalogue of archaeology, buildings, industrial and maritime heritage in Wales, human bones were discovered here in the early 20th century, while teeth were found as recently as 1980.
In centuries past, the mouth of the cave was open to the outside, exposing it to the enemy, but it was intentionally blocked from the inside and the passage was lined with stone to make it less susceptible to collapse. Because of the history and intrigue which surrounds the cave, Carreg Cennen has been described as “one of the few castles in Britain to possess such an intriguing natural phenomenon”.
So, this ancient pile which stands high above the Carmarthenshire countryside has plenty to offer. Whether you want to get married, have a snack, a nice walk, or explore a deep and fascinating cave, Carreg Cennen has a bit of everything.
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