The dish comes to the table topped with generous amounts of garlic and coriander, in a sauce of olive oil and clam juice, ripe for mopping with the slices of rustic bread in the basket. The scene before us couldn’t be brighter. I don’t mean the immense blue of the waters of Ria Formosa, but this fragrant plate of clams a Bulhão Pato in the foreground.
Although originally created in downtown Lisbon for 19th-century writer and gourmand Bulhão Pato, it’s in the Algarve that the dish really sings – the fabulously fresh local ingredients showing it off as, arguably, one of the finest recipes ever invented for seafood, even though it’s so simple: olive oil, garlic, white wine and coriander.
Clams a Bulhão Pato; the blue waters of Ria Formosa; the locally caught seafood is praised across Europe
The cuisine of the Algarve is one of the most celebrated in Portugal, featuring some of the finest fresh produce in the country. Its beautiful coast connects both with the Atlantic and the Mediterranean traditions. Its seafood is praised by chefs across Europe, and the prized Algarve scarlett prawns or the clams of the marshes of Ria Formosa are things of beauty, delighting diners in both Michelin-starred restaurants and humble cervejarias across the region.
To see the bounty of the Algarve at its freshest, there’s nothing better than a visit to the markets in Olhão: two red brick buildings with dome turrets that have become the iconic symbol of this fishing town. One pavilion has just fish and seafood stalls, while the other offers vegetables and fruit, as well as the olives, almonds and figs of the Algarve. On Saturday morning the farmers from the region descend to the waterfront to sell their best oranges, strawberries, honey or piri piri chillies. The smell of frying dough invades the cafes and terraces, as giant churros covered in sugar and cinnamon are sold from a local food truck.
The markets in Olhão with their domed turrets – one is dedicated to seafood
Olhão is the largest fishing port in the region, and with its maze-like old town – known locally as the “cubist quarter” – it maintains a distinct identity from nearby Faro, the capital of Algarve. Inside these winding streets and alleys are excellent lunch spots such as Chá Chá Chá, opened by food writer Kevin Gould, with a lovely terrace and daily-changing menu based on what’s available at the market (joyfully, almost always clams). There’s also Vai e Volta, a small tasca that specialises in wonderful charcoal-grilled fish.
On the way out of Olhão, make a stop on the N125 – the road that will take you towards Faro – at Pastelaria Kubidoce to enjoy the delicious pastries and sweet creations of talented local baker Filipe Martins, who built a loyal following for his pastries and bread. You’ll find a splendid version of folar here – a light, layered, buttery cinnamon cake that is one of Olhão’s specialities.
Inside the well-preserved walls of Faro’s old town, you’ll find Tertúlia Algarvia, known for traditional Algarve dishes, especially the cataplana – a word that means both the copper pot and the dish cooked in it. To learn more about this unique product of the Algarve, you can visit a traditional workshop in Loulé, where you can see the craftsmen working and the pot taking shape: from a flat copper sheet to the domed and dimpled halves of the finished article – which bears no small resemblance to a clam itself, funnily enough.
Cataplana at Tertúlia Algarvia
Where to stay
If you’re looking for luxury lodgings, Domes Lake Algarve is within touching distance of both Faro and Olhão – and it has an enviable culinary reputation of its own. Set moments walk from a long, sandy stretch of Falésia beach, the resort is home to two elegant bars and three signature restaurants.
If you’re in the mood for an aperitif, start off at Raw gastro bar, which pairs original cocktails with innovative small plates, such as gravadlax cured with Algarve citrus, and sea bass and scallop tartare crostinis.
Domes Lake Algarve is centred around a freshwater lake and sand-bottom pool; restaurants include Topos
And there’s plenty to play with once you’re ready to settle into a meal. For more of a taste of the Algarve, you’ll find contemporary comfort dishes served up with outstanding local wines at Gustatio, were the daily-changing buffet runs from Algarvian coastal cuisine and petiscos (Portuguese small plates) to local meat and fish cooked live on the grill.
For award-winning modern Greek, there’s Topos, with a menu featuring octopus and red wine stew, miso-marinated cod and lamb loin souvlaki, washed down with some of the finest wines of the Aegean. Apricus pool bar is all about fresh, healthy fare with super-local ingredients – think chicken salad with sweet Algarvian oranges. And if you’re looking for something with that extra wow factor for a special occasion, anchored on a floating esplanade on the resort’s private lake is Makris, which offers a Mediterranean-inspired menu paired again with the region’s fine wines.
The resort’s pools are the perfect place to relax, with a poolside bar and shady palms
And opening this season is the newest addition to Domes Lake Algarve: SORA Beach. This beachfront bar and restaurant will serve up a menu from executive chef Vitor Moreira, featuring Algarve-style seafood, cocktails and snacks straight to your sunbed.
In between these gastronomic delights, there are plenty of activities to work up an appetite. The resort has a private saltwater lake for watersports, a natural sand-bottom pool – as well as two other pools – in addition to an eco-conscious learning garden for toddlers and children, and the award-winning Soma Spa. And, for those who fancy a round of golf, there are five courses alone in Vilamoura, just minutes away from the resort (which runs free shuttles to all of them), and more than 20 in total within a half-hour drive.
So you’ve spent the day on the beach, by the pool, swinging the clubs, or just exploring the region, then you’ve treated yourself to a world-class meal just a hop from your room. What about that nightcap? There are luxe surrounds, guest DJs and cocktails at Apricus pool bar. And if you really can’t say no to one or two more, Domes is a stroll away from the nightlife hub of Villamoura marina – there are few better ways to see out another balmy night in the Algarve.
Book your holiday to Domes Lake Algarve at ba.com/domes
With British Airways Holidays, you can reserve your well-deserved break with deposits starting from just £60 per person and pay the balance in as few or many instalments as you like*. All package bookings are ATOL-protected (5985) and include a 23kg baggage allowance per person. Their Customer Promise is a commitment to quality and service that ensures that their hotel partners adhere to strict safety standards, you’ll get a speedy refund should your holiday be cancelled and there’s a 24-hour helpline if you need any assistance on your holiday – just some of the reasons why 92% of customers** say they would choose British Airways Holidays again.
*T&Cs apply. Deposit balance due 7 weeks in advance for long haul and 28 days in advance for short haul. Travel restrictions may apply.
**From over 27,000 independent Reevoo reviews in the last 12 months – as at March 2022
