The Isles of Scilly, off the coast of Cornwall, have long been the under-the-radar destination of ‘those in the know’. They’ve always had a sense of secrecy and exclusivity about them, recently cemented by the fact that the Duke and Duchess of Cambridge have holidayed there for the past two years, with William also visiting as a child.
Until last March, the only way to reach the idyllic outposts was by the Skybus (a 19-seater plane) or the Scillonian ferry – dubbed locally as the ‘Chunder Bucket’ due to the fact that the two hour 45 minute crossing is usually a rough one. Fine, if you’ve got strong sea legs, but an endurance test for many. Now, making things easier, is the new Penzance Helicopters service, launched just before lockdown in 2020, with up to 17 flights per day, for six days a week. State-of-the-art helicopters whizz visitors (up to 12 per flight) across the 28 miles in just 15 minutes, making the UK’s answer to the Caribbean much more accessible.
Taking off from Penzance Heliport, you are taken to either Tresco or St Mary’s – two of the five inhabited islands that make up the Scillies (there are also some 140 more islands, which are essentially left to be playgrounds for wildlife). While hopping on a helicopter offers a very practical solution (not to mention glamourous) way of getting to the Scillies, this is not the only bonus. It is so scenic that the journey becomes a highlight of your visit.
As soon as you lift off into the air, the helicopter’s blades whirring overhead, the Cornish coast below you, you start to swoon. Cornwall’s patchwork quilt of fields and craggy rocks are soon left behind. And then you’re smoothly gliding over a dark, glittering ocean. White peaks break the blue, and you wonder if that’s a dolphin’s fin you can spot below or are those shadows of passing whales? Tiny sailing boats are riding the waves, being gusseted by the wind, and for a gleeful moment you feel smug from up on high.
Then the inky blue turns impossibly azure, with pools of aquamarine, pockets of sapphire and steaks of cerulean swirling below. Smugness turns to awe. As you approach the islands, crescents of icing-sugar sand wink at you, giving promises of idyllic days in the sun. It’s totally captivating.
As well as the thrill-factor, the service is also impressively hassle-free (although you do have to keep an eye on the weather reports). Taking off from the new £5.3m Heliport in Penzance couldn’t be easier. You show your ID, get your bags weighed (it’s a generous 20kg per person), and you are shown through to the lounge – all within an hour of departure. On return, from Tresco (or St Mary’s), it’s just as quick, with the waiting area adorned with art by local artists – moody seascapes or watercolours of agapanthus – it’s all very civilised.
The Isles of Scilly (don’t call them the Scilly Isles if you don’t want to feel the wrath of locals) has just five inhabited islands. Each of these five has a different sense of place and are easily reached by hopping on local boat services. St Martin’s is the most ravishing. With its powder-white sands and crystal waters, winding lanes and breath-taking views, it’s as though you’ve arrived in Mustique, rather than an outpost of England. Bryher, meanwhile, has a wilder, windswept feel about it – the perfect island for birdwatching, water-sports and rural walks. It’s also home to Hell Bay Hotel, just the place for exquisite cuisine and Hamptons-inspired rooms. St Agnes is the most southerly and remote of the islands – the very last tip of the British Isles before you hit North America across the Atlantic – and is beautifully unspoilt. Then there is St Mary’s – the main hub of the Scillies. This is the largest island (with a population of some 1,800) and feels (slightly) more bustling than the others, but you’ll still find secluded bays, quiet pubs and scenic spots.
Finally, Tresco is renowned for its tropical Abbey Gardens, which transport you to an otherworldly place with towering palms, overblown fern trees and exotic blooms. It’s also home to manicured lanes, gorgeous beaches and pretty seaside cottages. Like a little England of old transported into exotic climes.
Robert Dorrien-Smith, owner of Tresco Estate, also happens to be one of the key investors in the Penzance Heliport facility. His family first became proprietors of Tresco in 1834, and Robert says his involvement with the new helicopter operation “will help bring resilience and connectivity to the wider islands to sustain future growth.”
In fact, this is not the first time the islands have had helicopters for visitors, with the previous service, which operated successfully for over 48 years, stopping in October 2012. In partnership with Tresco Estate, the new operation is run by Sloane Helicopters – one of the UK’s leading onshore helicopter operators with 49 years’ experience. “The near sea level of the heliport location, combined with the outstanding aircraft performance and safety characteristics, offers enhanced weather resilience and reliability, minimising disruption to passenger journeys,” says a spokesperson.
It seem as though paradise just got a whole lot closer.
For more information visit: penzancehelicopters.co.uk and visitislesofscilly.com
