It’s no secret that fashion and film go hand-in-hand. For years, what has taken place on the silver screen has influenced wider culture, including how people dress.
Films serve as major inspiration, particularly for fashion designers. And the pipeline of fashion designer to costume designer is a familiar one — be it Hubert de Givenchy in the 1960s or Jonathan Anderson in the 2020s.
However, the role of costume designer is one that is often overlooked. There’s so much focus on superstar actresses and actors, that people forget to acknowledge the people who masterminded their wardrobes. But in recent years, thanks to the internet shining more visibility on the profession, this crucial part of film-making is finally getting its flowers.
Below, we take a look at some of the best on-screen style moments throughout the ages.
Poor Things, 2024
Costume designer Holly Waddington won an Oscar earlier this year for her work on director Yorgos Lanthimos’s Poor Things. The film stars Emma Stone as Bella Baxter, a young woman in Victorian London who has been brought back to life via a brain transplant. A super freaky story, as is typical of Lanthimos, however the costumes are sublime. Waddington dressed Stone in seriously giant puff sleeves, colourful OTT ruffles and ladylike latex capes, for a period-piece with a futuristic, sci-fi twist. Think Molly Goddard meets Vivienne Westwood but on steroids, and you’re starting to get the idea.
Challengers, 2024
Who knew a film about tennis could be so stylish? Well, when Jonathan Anderson (creative director of Loewe and JW Anderson) is the costume designer, anything is possible. But don’t expect the whimsical, high drama of his runway designs (although you will spot a Loewe handbag or two) — the genius of Challengers lies in its normalcy. Starring Zendaya, Josh O’Connor and Mike Faist, the film is a love letter to the early Noughties — for example, in the scene that broke the internet (you know, the one involving a three way kiss) Zendaya is wearing a pink velour Juicy Couture zip-through hoodie. The grey slogan T-shirt reading ‘I Told Ya’ worn by the characters both on and off screen is a reference to John F. Kennedy, who wore a white version many years ago in a paparazzi shot. Copy-cat versions popped up overnight, and of course Loewe did its own version.
Barbie, 2023
Where to start with Barbie…there are more costumes than you can shake a stick at. Greta Gerwig’s blockbuster movie about a plastic doll took the world by storm last year, and everything turned Barbie pink. Costume designer Jacqueline Durran, who won an Oscar for her work on Gerwig’s 2019 film Little Women, said in an interview at the time: “Barbie really is interlinked with fashion, because how you play with her is by dressing her”. With an all-star cast including Margot Robbie, Ryan Gosling, America Ferrera, Issa Rae, Will Ferrell and Dua Lipa to name a few, and the film’s plot taking place both in Barbie-land and the human world, Durran and her team certainly had their work cut-out. But from Ken’s branded boxer shorts, to Barbie’s hot-pink cowboy ensemble, they pulled it off to create looks that exemplify pure escapism and fun.
Dune and Dune 2, 2021 and 2024
An epic sci-fi novel adaptation about a desert planet might not have you instantly thinking ‘fashion’ — but stay with us. A three part film series starring Timothée Chalamet and Zendaya, the costumes span multiple fictional universes and class systems. It’s futuristic while being medieval, showcasing royal families and dynasties as well as everyday people. The Fremen, or desert people, to which Zendaya belongs to, look as though they are dressed in head-to-toe Rick Owens — swathes of fabric, body armour, gloves and…black nose tubes (that help recycle water, duh). The second installment also stars Florence Pugh as Princess Irulan, in which she wears several incredible beaded head-dresses, and Austin Butler as the villain Feyd-Rautha Harkonnen — bald and terrifying, but dressed in plenty of bad-ass black leather. We can’t wait for the final film in 2026.
House of Gucci, 2021
“Father, son and house of Gucci,” swears Lady Gaga as Patrizia Reggiani, when asked if she can keep a secret. With crispy-curled hair, lashings of gold costume jewellery and a ruched black-and-pink polka dot dress, this is a movie about maximalism. Directed by Ridley Scott, the film charts the real-life story of the toxic relationship between Maurizio Gucci (played by Adam Driver) and his ex-wife Patrizia Reggiani (Lady Gaga). Starting in the ‘70s and continuing through to the ‘90s, there are plenty of nostalgic fashion moments — and naturally plenty of Gucci. From Swiss ski-slopes to lavish Italian villas, there’s no doubt Gaga is the queen of high-drama looks throughout.
Breakfast at Tiffany’s, 1961
From the moment Audrey Hepburn stepped out of a yellow taxi cab and stared whimsically into Tiffany & Co's window in this gorgeous Givenchy creation, our love affair with the LBD began. Audrey and Givenchy met and collaborated on the set of Sabrina in 1954, and a life-long professional and personal partnership was ignited. 'It was a kind of marriage', Givenchy would later tell the Telegraph. There was nothing 'little' about this LBD - it set a new style standard in Hollywood in direct opposition to Dior's 'new look'. A modern icon was born.
The Misfits, 1961
Whilst it's tempting to go with Marilyn’s floaty white halterneck dress made famous in The Seven Year Itch, we're going to defy convention and opt for an iconic look that doesn't always top the style polls. Monroe was one of the first Hollywood stars to rock a pair of jeans on screen - and not just any jeans for that matter: Levi's. As 'mom' jeans inundate the high street this year, let's remember who first styled this high waisted, straight cut denim with a classic white shirt tucked in. Monroe will always be the original blue jean icon.
Annie Hall, 1977
The tailored style sported by Diane Keaton in this 1977 classic sparked a huge trend for androgynous clothing. We're still copying Annie's outfits nearly 40 years later - and for good reason. Waistcoats, high-waisted trousers, flamboyant ties and bowler hats. Diane pulled off these outfits on screen because they were exactly what she was wearing in real life too. She wrote in her book, Then Again: 'I stole what I wanted to wear from the cool-looking women on the streets of SoHo. Annie’s khaki pants, vest, and tie came from them.'
Blade Runner, 1982
Everything about Sean Young's style in Ridley Scott's 1982 science fiction classic reimagines 1940s film noir for a new audience. Against a backdrop of dystopian Los Angeles, it's a thrilling juxtaposiiton that gets us swooning every time we watch her. Where to start? With her incredible rolled fringe (a la Bettie Page), Lauren Bacall inspired shoulder pads and that full length fur coat. We've got the biggest girl crush on Rachael - no wonder she steals Harrison Ford's heart.
The Great Gatsby, 1974
There's a translucency to Mia Farrow’s ethereal wardrobe in 1974's The Great Gatsby that perfectly captures the elusive spirit of F. Scott Fitzgerald's novel. Masterminded by Theoni V. Aldredge, with a little help from Ralph Lauren, each costume evokes a dreamlike quality that still renders this Jazz Age film timeless. The critics agreed. It went on to win the Oscar for Best Costume Design.
Atonement, 2007
Keira’s gorgeous emerald silk gown is the stuff that 1930s dreams are made of. Designed by Jacqueline Durran, this stunner has since been voted the best film costume of all time. It's not hard to see why. The gorgeous fabric, the impeccable cut and that library scene make it our favourite, too.
Gone With The Wind, 1939
The incredibly ornate, full-length, hoop-skirted costumes worn by Vivien in the 1939 epic have become iconic in their own right - and are just as overstated as her character, Scarlett. Costume designer, Walter Plunkett, also styled Singin' In The Rain and An American In Paris. After he was hired for Gone With The Wind, he went straight to Georgia to research designs. Despite pressures both off and on set, he designed over 5,000 separate items of clothing for more than 50 major characters and 100 extras.
Gilda, 1946
There's a reason why Jessica Rabbit styled herself after Gilda. Rita’s striptease performance in this dazzling black dress turned her into one of the most glamorous film stars of all time. Rita owed it all to costume designer, Jean Louis, who created many iconic dresses including the dazzing, glittery number worn by Marilyn Monroe when she sang 'Happy Birthday, Mr. President' to John F. Kennedy in 1962.
Rear Window, 1954
Grace’s full skirts and pearls were the epitome of regal elegance. They definitely enjoyed swishing across James Stewart's living room, masterminded by legandary costume designer, Edith Head. Edith and Grace reportedly worked closely together to create the costumes for Hitchcock's classic thriller. Her black velvet and white tulle dress would become one of Edith's finest creations.
Desperately Seeking Susan, 1985
Arriving right on cue in 1985, Madonna’s wacky thrift store look became the signature style of the 80s after this movie was released. It is reported that Madonna got the job as much for her own personal style than her acting skills at the time. The film's clothes continues what Madonna's 1984 video for Like A Virgin started: layered mesh tops, religious jewellery, cut-off gloves, bangles, leather jackets and ripped tights soon defined the 1980s.
Basic Instinct, 1992
Sharon’s white sheath dress turned her into the ultimate icy blonde baddie. We won't mention the underwear situation. Costume designer Ellen Mirojnick sketched this ensemble herself, keeping things clean and striking. In doing so she created a femme fatale for a modern audience.
Bonnie And Clyde, 1967
Faye Dunaway’s depression-era wardrobe of berets, belted coats and fine knits simply oozes sex appeal. Costume designer, Theadora Van Runkle, masterminded the look. Evoking the spirit of the 1930s with the clean lines of the 1960s, Dunaway's fabulous neck-ties and body skimming midi skirts still inspire the catwalk today.
Almost Famous, 2000
Penny Lane’s 1970s-inspired wardrobe made groupie (ahem, sorry - we mean band aid) chic the ultimate look to emulate. What's not to marvel about Almost Famous' outfits? Aviators, Mexican style blouses, SUEDE, flared denim and kimonos. We're still lusting after that suede, shearling coat and as the 1970s refuses to loosen its grip on the catwalk, it's no.1 on our Christmas list.
The Royal Tenenbaums, 2002
Who hasn't dressed as Margot for Halloween? Gwyneth made fur coats and military-sleek bobs de rigueur after her 2002 turn as Margot Tenenbaum. Wes Anderson's vision is still our fave look. According to the film's costume designer, Karen Patch, Margot's style was inspired by Peter Sellers' film The World of Henry Orient. When she sketched a mink coat design and sent it to Fendi, they obliged. Bass loafers and a Hermes bag completed a look we are still desperate to emulate (minus the chain-smoking, naturally).
