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Evening Standard
Evening Standard
Travel
Vicky Jessop

The Manor at Ngorongoro review: a luxury base for safari-seekers

Think Tanzania and what springs to mind? Sunshine, certainly. Safari — the chance to spot zebras, lions and elephants — almost definitely. But what about luxury? Yes, if The Manor has anything to do with it.

Part of the Elewana Properties chain of hotels, this small bolthole near Lake Manyara National Park is the last word in low-key, yet high-end service.

It’s a must for anybody planning a trip to the beautiful, remote plains of Arusha: here’s what to know.

Where is it?

Located in the highlands of Tanzania, The Manor occupies a pretty prime location when it comes to safari — which, let’s be honest, most people are here for. It’s a half-hour drive from Ngorongoro Crater and Lake Manyara, and a two-hour drive from Tarangire (which might sound long, but when the drives are this picturesque, who’s complaining?).

Thanks to its elevated location, the temperature is cooler — a relief in a country where the mercury regularly shoots above 30 degrees — there are no mosquitoes, and the views are excellent. Set a 20-minute drive away from the main road, it’s also blessedly silent. In short: it is the perfect place to unwind.

Style

(Birds of Passage Co)

In the best way possible, a stay at The Manor feels like spending time at somebody’s country house. The hotel is comprised of one main building, surrounded by 18 white-washed stone villas and set in the middle of some beautifully landscaped gardens, while the whole hotel is surrounded by fragrant coffee plants.

Dark wood panelling and antique furniture are everywhere — including in the large sitting room, which boasts a bar and a roaring fire — and outside, a swimming pool with a view is tucked away in one corner, surrounded by sunbeds to relax on after a dip.

The trump card, however, has to be the terrace. Liberally supplied with blankets, fire pits and comfy chairs, it’s the perfect place to enjoy a drink at sundown.

Which room?

(Elewana)

The bedrooms (which comprise a selection of 18 suites as well as a family villa) are grand and gorgeous. Think dark wood panelling, freestanding bathtubs to soak in and beds which are stacked with mattresses thick enough to sink into. Outside, there’s a small terrace with sunbeds; inside, there’s a fireplace, which the ever-obliging staff will light for you — it turns out, hygge is possible even in Tanzania.

The villas are laid out in a horseshoe around the main hotel space and are all fairly similar, but for maximum value, my recommendation would be to get a villa with a view over the lush green valley. Lie back, grab a drink, and soak it all in.

Food and drink

(Birds of Passage Co)

One of the nicest things about The Manor is that it’s all-inclusive, except for add-ons like snacks and particularly fancy bottles of wine. That means there’s no fussing about whether or not to opt for the five-course set menu for dinner.

The evening meal is always delicious, changes daily and incorporates local ingredients like baobab fruit and oyster nuts (the oyster nut and ginger soup, served with warm bread and fresh butter, was a particular highlight). Breakfast is a feast of freshly-prepared fruit, eggs and pastries, while lunch (which comprises a selection of salads; if you can, the roast vegetables with freekeh and local cheese is a must-have) can be eaten outside on the terrace, listening to the sounds of the birds.

Extracurricular

(Birds of Passage Co)

The hotel itself boasts a chic little swimming pool and spa, as well as the chance to ride one of its horses around the coffee plantations.

However, you’re in Tanzania: it would frankly be criminal if you didn’t do at least a day of safari. Fortunately, The Manor has you covered and then some; chat to reception to organise a visit to the breathtaking Ngorongoro Crater, which is a speedy half-hour drive away and boasts one of the highest concentrations of wildlife anywhere in the country (which costs around £63 per person in park entry fees).

Alternative options include a trip to neighbouring safari hotspot Tarangire (also well worth visiting for the chance to see cheetahs and leopards), a trip to a local Maasai village and the chance to do a coffee tasting.

As relaxing as the hotel is, a day of sightseeing is an absolute must. If you’re tired in the evening, you can head down to the cinema room and unwind by watching a film.

Best for

(Photo: Niels van Gijn / Silverle)

Couples wanting to combine exploration with luxury — and why not. What could be more exciting than a day of sightseeing in one of Tanzania’s best wildlife hotspots, before returning home at 4pm for a swim, a cocktail and a sumptuous dinner?

How to get there

As with most places in Tanzania (and especially when it comes to safari) The Manor is remote. Flights to Arusha from Dar Es Salaam take an hour and are fairly frequent; once you touch down, the hotel can organise a taxi, which will take around three hours.

Rooms start from £427 in low season, elewanacollection.com

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