Last night I was fortunate enough to sample a truly extraordinary flight of whisky expressions—all by The Macallan. And it’s no exaggeration when I use the word “extraordinary.” Among the three-strong lineup were a 25 Year Sherry Cask (that fetches between $1,800 to $2,000), a 50 Year Old with a global allocation of 200 (at $35,000), and The Macallan M Black 2017 (at $7,000).
They are by no means inexpensive Scotches but they’re certainly worth it, if you’re lucky enough to come across them and have a sizeable enough bank balance—because these true collectibles won’t be easy to find, especially in the United States. The M Black, for instance, is limited to 725 decanters globally. (A mere 40 will make its way to the U.S. market.)
But the good news is that The Macallan M Black 2017 is the most approachable of the three—in terms of cost, flavor profile, and investment value over time. The limited edition (and numbered) 90-proof whisky is the product of an impressive collaboration of powerhouses: Macallan, the creative director Fabien Baron, and the renowned French crystal maker Lalique.
Let’s talk about why. The black decanter itself is a sight to behold. (It is, after all, a Lalique.) But it’s the refined and sophisticated liquid that makes it quite the treat—because at the end of the day, it’s the whisky that true aficionados really care about. And this one is deeper, richer, and smokier than what one would associate with Macallan, perhaps it’s because of the fact that it was drawn from Sherry-seasoned oak casks—some of which held peated malt, a characteristic that’s quite unusual for Macallan. Beyond that, the six Sherry casks it hails from (three 250-liter hogsheads and three butts) contribute to the whisky’s complexity without veering too far away from Macallan’s DNA. It is much lighter on the nose than it is on the palate: At first sip, there’s a hint of dried stone fruit before transitioning into dark chocolate. As you progress a tad more, you’ll notice some mild smokiness—in the best possible way. And the finish? It lasts forever, as any good Scotch should.
But that’s not the only thing The Macallan is up to. Several weeks ago, the distillery announced the upcoming September release a $65,000 expression: The Macallan 72 Year Old in Lalique, The Genesis Decanter—the oldest it has ever released, distilled all the way back in the 1940s. (And yes, it will also be housed in a fine Lalique crystal decanter.)
Over the years, I’ve been lucky enough to sample whiskies older than I am—including a few that would qualify for membership in AARP. But those are mere youngsters compared to The Macallan’s 72 Year Old, which commemorates the brand’s new $186 million distillery in Scotland. And unlike the distillery’s other new releases, I anticipate this one to be unlike any other. “The Macallan 72 Year Old is an incredibly rare single malt defined by years of dedication and craftsmanship,” said Nick Savage, The Macallan Master Distiller, via a press release. “As the oldest whisky we have ever bottled, this is a truly momentous occasion to commemorate our remarkable new Distillery. Although delicate throughout all aspects, it provides an intense experience which acknowledges the distinguished history of The Macallan.”
