Situated on a beautiful setting on an islet surrounded by the Cauvery and the Kollidam, the Sri Ranganathaswamy Temple at Srirangam, also known as the ‘Periyakoil’ and ‘Bhooloka Vaikuntam’, is one of the important Vishnu temples in the country. Steeped in history, tradition and culture, the temple, constructed in the Dravidian architectural style, is one of the oldest and largest functioning Hindu temples in the world.
Rich in architecture and scriptures, the temple is foremost among the 108 ‘Divya Desams,’ enormous in size with seven ‘prakarams’ and high rampart walls. Spread on 156 acres with 21 gopurams (towers), the massive temple complex houses a host of Mandapams and several shrines, with festivals celebrated all through the year.
Known for its colour
Among the 21 gopurams, the 236-foot-tall and 13-tier ‘Rajagopuram’ at the southern entrance remains an iconic structure and the tallest in Asia till date. Equally impressive is the majestic gopuram at the temple’s eastern entrance. What makes this nearly 144-foot-tall gopuram stand out among the others is its colour. While other gopurams, carrying figurines, are painted in several colours, the tower at the eastern entrance is painted white. It is better known as ‘Vellai Gopuram’ (White Tower) or the ‘Vellaiyi Gopuram’ among the residents of the town. An interesting legend is attached to it.
According to the legend, the gopuram has been named in honour of a danseuse and ‘Devadasi’ (female servant of God), who resided at Srirangam and sacrificed her life to protect Sri Namperumal, the idol of the processional deity, during the Mohammedan invasion of Srirangam in the 14th Century. The temple website details the history of the temple, and it mentions the dancer’s name as Vellaiyammal. A publication on the temple in 1967, titled The Srirangam Temple Art and Architecture, written by renowned historian V. N. Hari Rao, gives a detailed account of the history of the temple, including the Muslim invasions in 1311 and 1323 A.D.
A devastating invasion
“The Srirangam temple suffered on both occasions. Malik Kafur’s expedition of 1311 was a mere raid. Doubtless, the temple was sacked and the treasure was taken away. But ere long came the second invasion. The object of Ulugh Khan’s expedition in 1323 was the extension of the Tughlak empire southward. The Srirangam temple was occupied by the Muslims and used as a fortress camp,” the book says.
Several Sri Vaishnavas were killed while fighting to protect the temple. The invaders had an eye on the idol of Sri Namperumal and wanted to seize it. Vaishnavite Acharya Pillailokacharya took the idol and escaped in time by taking a circuitous route to avoid the invaders. The idols of Sri Namperumal and Sri Devi and Bhu Devi were taken from Srirangam in 1323 to Tirupati. They returned only in 1371. Legend has it that unable to bear the acts of the forces, Vellaiyammal is said to have performed a dance before the commander of the forces, gaining time for Pillailokacharya to escape with the idols. The temple has a separate shrine for Pillailokacharya near the shrine of Udaiyavar or Sri Ramanuja.
Infatuated with the danseuse, the commander of the forces approached her, wanting to know the location of the idol of Sri Namperumal. The woman lured the commander under the pretext of showing the idol and took him to the top of the eastern gopuram and pushed him as he peered down. After killing him, Vellaiyammal ended her life by jumping to death from the tower. According to the temple website, the eastern gopuram has been painted in white in memory of Vellaiyammal since then.
It is said the chief of the Vijayanagara forces, Kumara Kampanna, drove away the Sultanate forces. One of the senior-most priests of the temple said the eastern gopuram had been painted in white for ages. References of the Mohammedan invasion of the Srirangam temple is mentioned in the edition of Koil Olugu, brought out by Sri Vaishnava Sri R. Krishnamachari. Koil Olugu is an account of the temple’s history and its properties. (‘Koil’, in the Vaishavite parlance, refers to the Srirangam temple and ‘Olugu’ means a register.) Hearsay has it that the ‘Vellai Gopuram’ is called so in memory of Vellaiyammal, Krishnamachari observes.
Abounds in inscriptions
The ‘Vellai Gopuram’ has a rare sculpture of Lord Vishnu in a unique blend of Ananda Thandava and Kalinga Narthana at the base, according to R. Kalaikovan, director, Dr. M. Rajamanickanar Historical Research Centre, Tiruchi. The temple abounds in inscriptions, he says, pointing out that 660 inscriptions, throwing light on the history, culture, economy over a thousand years ago, have been copied from the temple.
The temple also has a rich collection of around 3,000 Hindu religious texts at its Samaya Noolagam (library) functioning in a mandapam at Ul Manal Veli. The books are on various topics, including Vaishnava Aagamam, Saint Ramanuja, Brahma Suthram, and Srimad Bhagavatam.
The Vijayanagara generals and chieftains, Kumara Kampana, Gopana, Saluva Mangu, and Saluva Gunda, were primarily responsible for the restoration and initial reorganisation of the temple. The temple bagged the UNESCO Asia Pacific Award of Merit, 2017, for cultural heritage conservation, thanks to massive renovation and restoration executed through a public-private partnership.
