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Evening Standard
Evening Standard
Lisa McLoughlin

The Irish sandwich going viral in London – and where to find it this St. Patrick's Day

In a city where the lunchtime landscape is dominated by Pret and Tesco's pre-packaged offerings, there's a new culinary contender making waves in London: the Irish chicken fillet roll.

Forget any preconceptions about Irish cuisine, because this unassuming deli favourite has captured the hearts and appetites of a nation, with crispy breaded chicken fillet, a crunchy demi-baguette, and an array of fillings and sauces all combined to create a culinary masterpiece.

The origins of the Irish chicken fillet roll are murky at best. However, if internet lore is to be believed, it first emerged from the deli of a Dublin convenience store back in 2002. Myth aside, it's become the go-to choice for an affordable lunch, and hangover cure, ingraining itself into the fabric of Irish food culture much like the iconic Philly Cheesesteak in Philadelphia.

In London, social media has played a significant role in spreading the word about this Irish delicacy, alongside other beloved hangover cures like the spice bag and curry chip.

Thanks to TikTok and Instagram, the city’s masses are being tepidly introduced to the nuanced Irish deli experience, a cornerstone of our culture. Just be warned: while it might seem tempting to label these offerings as “Irish street food”, attempting to do so in Ireland might earn you a one-way ticket back to where you came from. And whatever you do, never compare the Irish chicken fillet roll to a chicken escalope or something from KFC – it's a whole different ball game.

You see, the key to a great Irish chicken fillet roll lies in the 3 Cs: chicken, condiments, and choice (of bread and fillings).

The chicken fillet, seasoned with a blend of herbs and spices, is breaded, and cooked to succulent perfection, while the choice of bread, whether traditional baguettes, wraps, or a sliced pan (a regular loaf), must strike a balance between sturdiness and softness to complement the chicken.

Whatever you do, never compare the Irish chicken fillet roll to a chicken escalope or something from KFC – it's a whole different ball game

However, creativity shines in the range of fillings and condiments, including crisp lettuce, sliced tomatoes, onions, stuffing, coleslaw, grated cheese, and tangy sauces like garlic mayonnaise, ketchup, or taco sauce. The variety of choices is endless, making each roll a unique experience tailored to individual tastes. Finally, it must always be cut in half.

If reading this has left you craving a taste of Ireland this St. Patrick's Day, fear not – we've got you covered. Here's where you can sink your teeth into one of these delectable rolls, alongside the rest of the Irish diaspora.

Emerald Eats

Emerald Eats founded by Irish expats Henry Spellman, Niall Morrissey, and Emma Moran, has taken the London food scene by storm with their Irish chicken fillet rolls since their debut late last year. Their tantalizing offerings frequently go viral on TikTok and Instagram, drawing in crowds eager to taste their creations. Be prepared for a wait, as their stall often attracts long queues that stretch down the pavement even before opening time, so it's best to arrive early to avoid missing out.

Weekends on Broadway Market, E8 4PH, @emerald_eats_

O’Sheas Café & Kitchen

Situated in the heart of Wembley Park alongside the Parish pub, O'Sheas Café & Kitchen is a beloved family-owned spot that offers a taste of home to its patrons. While renowned for their traditional Irish breakfast, they've been impressing customers with their delicious Irish chicken fillet rolls and customisable fillings since their opening in July. However, it's not just about the food; it's the warm slice of Irish hospitality and genuine Céad Míle Fáilte (a hundred thousand welcomes) that awaits every visitor, making it a must-visit destination for anyone in the area.

Open Friday through to Sunday, 118 Wembley Park Drive, HA9 8HP, osheascafe.co.uk

Goodfillas Sandwich & Coffee House

Just moments from the Thames Path in Brentford, you'll find this charming sandwich spot, overseen by Lorraine O'Dea since 2013. Goodfillas Sandwich & Coffee House boasts one of the city's more reasonably priced Irish chicken fillet rolls, affectionately dubbed “The Schmuck”, priced at £6.50. Though it may be a bit of a trek for those outside west London, it's well worth the journey to indulge in this tasty treat. Plus, you can always walk off your meal afterwards with a stroll through nearby Gunnersbury Park.

Open Tuesday through to Saturday, 165 Ealing Road, TW8 0AU, @goodfillasbrentford

Homeboy

For those craving a pint and a roll, head to Ciarán Smith and Aaron Wall's slick outpost Homeboy in Islington. These Dublin-born bartenders serve up a traditional Irish chicken fillet roll complete with lettuce, cheese, and spicy mayo for £10.50 – and it’s not to be missed.

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