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The Guardian - UK
The Guardian - UK
Ben Olsen

The great indoors: where to soak up Welsh culture this winter

Zip World Caverns
Family fun at Zip World, where slate caverns have become an underground course of ziplines and tightropes Photograph: Ben Walker/PR IMAGE

The Welsh mountains, valleys and beaches draw hikers, surfers and climbers all year round. Yet, it’s far more than a destination for the adventurous alone. These dramatic backdrops and deep-rooted traditions have galvanised generations of artists and poets, whose legacies play out across city galleries and literature trails. The rugged contours also reveal compelling tales of the country’s industrious past, and whether it’s centuries-old castles or cavernous mines given a new lease of life, Wales has a wealth of attractions to keep visitors inspired and entertained. We’ve chosen a range of cultural highlights that promise four great themed itineraries for your winter break …

Where the art is
Generations of artists have put Wales on the map and a buoyant creative scene can be witnessed across the country, with the capital a great place to start. Part of Cardiff’s civic centre, the National Museum Cardiff is an expansive showcase of art and natural history, with an impressive permanent collection that sees local heroes such as Richard Wilson, Thomas Jones and Gwen John share hanging space with the likes of Turner, Monet and Van Gogh.

National Museum of Wales, Cardiff, Interior
The National Museum Cardiff showcases significant Welsh artists alongside its expansive international collection. Photograph: Derek Phillips/Alamy

Head down the south Wales coast to the Glynn Vivian Art Gallery in Swansea, which houses a broad sweep of visual arts bequeathed to the city by local philanthropist Richard Glynn Vivian a century ago. Opting not to follow his family into the copper industry, he instead travelled the world collecting notable works – including ceramics and textiles from Europe and Asia – which are now displayed alongside a progressive roster of contemporary exhibitions.

For fans of modern art, the rural market town of Machynlleth in north Wales makes an unexpected if charming setting. Set in a Victorian townhouse and former Wesleyan chapel, Moma Machynlleth shines a light on leading contemporary Welsh artists, with current exhibitions including Llandudno-born Colin Williams, whose deconstructed artwork mixes painting and sculpture, and Vicky Ellis’s woven responses to abstract art.

Read between the lines
Whether native to Wales or lured by its landscapes, many authors have found inspiration within its borders. Perhaps Wales’s most famous literary son is Dylan Thomas, the Swansea-born poet and author whose footsteps can be followed with a series of trails that chart his connections across south Wales. Produced by Swansea’s Dylan Thomas Centre, these guides make it easy to trace Thomas’s life – in the Carmarthenshire town of Laugharne his picturesque former lodgings and writing shed at the Boathouse (not to mention his favourite drinking dens) give a glimpse into the creative process behind the genius. You can also see his final resting place.

Described as “the senior language of the men of Britain” by JRR Tolkien, the Welsh language’s influence on The Lord of the Rings author is visible within the Elvish dialect and various place names used throughout his work. Those equally enthralled can visit the National Welsh Language and Heritage Centre at Nant Gwrtheyrn on the Llŷn peninsula, while – for an immersive Tolkien-inspired experience – the grass-roofed hobbit hideaways at Florence Springs in Pembrokeshire offer glamping experiences, complete with hot tubs.

And if that’s much too comfortable for you, why not weave in the compelling legacy of Welsh-language “soldier poet” Hedd Wyn – influenced by nature and religion as well as the outbreak of the first world war, which claimed his life in 1917. His former home at Yr Ysgwrn, a traditional stone farmhouse in the heart of Snowdonia national park, stands as tribute to his lasting cultural impact.

Fort of call
Unsurprisingly, the “land of castles” is well endowed with fantastic fortresses. Perhaps the most formidable is Caernarfon Castle on the banks of the River Seiont. Restored in the 19th century, this imposing world heritage site dates to the 13th and 14th centuries and its lofty towers, grounds and on-site exhibitions – including one dedicated to the oldest infantry regiment in Wales – provide a fascinating insight into life within its walls.

CAERNARFON, Wales - A well-preserved room that formed part of the royal residence at Caernarfon Castle in northwest Wales. A castle originally stood on the site dating back to the late 11th century, but in the late 13th century King Edward I commissioned a new structure that stands to this day. It has distinctive towers and is one of the best preserved of the series of castles Edward I commissioned.
Explore Caernarfon Castle’s atmospheric towers and battlements. Photograph: Have Camera Will Travel/Alamy

With a touch more luxury, Tredegar House in Newport is one of the UK’s most significant late-17th-century houses. This sprawling National Trust-managed estate was once home to the Morgan family – influential industrialists and politicians whose key role in the region’s social and economic history can be explored across its ornate mansion house, walled gardens and surrounding parkland.

Less manicured but hugely impactful is the Big Pit National Coal Museum in Blaenavon, a former colliery that employed up to 1,300 miners and produced about 250,000 tonnes of coal a year at its peak. Now a living monument to the region’s deep-rooted relationship with mining, this powerful paean to the Welsh coal industry includes tours that journey more than 90 metres (300 feet) underground. There are also moving multimedia exhibits to immerse visitors in a way of life that continues to define local history.

All in the family
Another, rather adrenalin-filled way to immerse yourself in Welsh industrial heritage is at the Zip World slate caverns. Located at the Llechwedd slate quarry in north Wales, this impressive subterranean setting has been repurposed as an underground course, with ziplines, rope bridges and tightropes delivering buzzing adventure against a dramatic backdrop.

Over the Menai Strait, a great family day out awaits at Anglesey Sea Zoo, the largest aquarium in Wales. Its 40 tanks – from the invertebrate-centred No Bone Zone to the Shipwreck with its conger eels and huge starfish – display species endemic to British waters. There are interactive talks and feeding displays to inspire the next generation of marine biologists.

Finally, get your money’s worth with the Royal Mint Experience just outside Cardiff, which offers a behind-the-scenes glance at more than 1,000 years of coins. Follow the manufacturing journey from concept to creation, mint your own coin and be inspired by interactive exhibits that explore the figures – from monarchs to Olympians – gracing the coins and medals manufactured here.

Find inspiration for your winter break at Visit Wales

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