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Evening Standard
Evening Standard
Lifestyle
Hayley Spencer

The best winter adventure holidays (that aren't skiing)

The cycle of ski-après-sleep, repeat doesn't appeal to everyone. But if the idea of making fresh tracks in white powder with blue skies above does, there are plenty of alternative trips offering new and exhilarating ways to explore some of the world's most remote landscapes this winter.

If you've dreamed of seeing emperor penguins or orcas in their natural habitat, or of stepping foot on the frozen, unchartered territories of Antarctica, there are luxe organised expeditions you can do in less than a week. Or if you fancy zooming through barely touched mountains on a snowmobile, Iceland's remote new wilderness output Highland Base Kerlingarfjöll is ready to fulfil your wish.

For those who love a unique experience, a stay at Transylvania's ice hotel, or a visit to the Igloo Pelvo park in France's Ecrins National Park will be high on the list.

An end-of-the-earth adventure: Highland Base Kerlingarfjöll, Iceland

This recently opened camp and hotel offers end-of-the-earth adventure (Highland Base Kerlingarfjöll)

Best for: Hikers, stargazers and adrenaline-junkies.

Located in the Kerlingarfjöll mountains in Iceland's central highlands, the recently opened Highland Base is so remote it can only be reached by 4X4 super Jeep in winter. As well as making for a thrilling entrance, the wilderness location means its offers unspoilt views from the Ásgarður Valley. So yes; this is the perfect place to see the Northern Lights, as well as plenty more of the cosmos. Accommodation ranges from plush lodges decked out in minimalist Scandi design - all light wood and microcement walls - to traditional huts, to simple hostel rooms. So there's something to suit all budgets.

By day, get your thrills on a guided snowmobile ride (from £142 per person based on two riders, October to June) through the stunning snowscapes towards the mammoth Hofsjökull glacier. Or sign up to one of many guided hikes (from £95 for scheduled tours), from family-friendly science tours, to all-day missions. If you want to let the mountain air work its magic from a more relaxing vantage point, then the new thermal baths will be the perfect spot (opening early 2024).

The details: Rooms for two start at £335 per night for a deluxe double with buffet breakfast included. Transfer pickups are available from Reykjavík and Basecamp Skjól, from October 1 to June 16, from £107 each way per person. Use of high-powered telescopes (with the help of an expert) is included in your board from October to April. highlandbase.is

Kerlingarfjöll offers endless views from its base camp and on treks and snowmobile tours (Highland Base Kerlingarfjöll)

Lapland for grown-ups: Finland

Catch auroras from the huge picture windows at Arctic Treehouse Hotel (Arctic Treehouse Hotel)

Best for: Big kids and luxury lovers.

The magic of Lapland shouldn't just be reserved for kids seeking out Santa. Untold Story Travel offers week-long adventures that are sure to inspire glee in travellers of any age, with a reindeer ride minus the man in a red suit included in the recommended itinerary. To up the adrenaline factor, there's also the option of a husky ride and snowmobile journey over frozen lakes in the wilderness. Plus you're highly likely to see the Northern Lights, especially in Levi, which has the purest air on the planet, according to WHO.

Added wow factor comes in the form of three accommodation options: you can start in the Scandi designed Arctic Tree Hotel with minimal interiors and panoramic views (arctictreehousehotel.com). Then spend an evening at the unique Snow Hotel, made of you guessed it: white powder and ice, in a new design every year and boasting a snow sauna. When you head north to Levi for the second half of the trip, the Northern Lights Ranch (theranch.fi) will play host in its sweet Sky Cabins, which also offer huge picture windows to view the auroras. Added novelty will ensue on a final night if you spend it in Glass Igloos, after a feast at Aurora Sky Restaurant.

The details: Contact untoldstorytravel.com for a custom itinerary.

An ice cruise and Northern Lights expedition: Northern Norway

The MS Quest carries just 53 passengers to make your experience of these remote corners feel more intimate (Discover The World)

Best for: Aurora-seekers and transport nerds.

The adventure: This six-day trip packs some serious punch, comprising a cruise on the MS Quest, as well as a journey aboard the new Northern Lights Express to explore Norway's Narvik and the Lofoten archipelago. It boards at Tromso, with an itinerary that starts with local museums, and escalates in thrills, with husky-sledding and snowmobiling on offer.

Look out over winter wonderlands from the Northern Lights Express (Getty Images/iStockphoto)

While you sail, an expert will help you look out for the incredible local polar wildlife, from orcas to humpback wales, as well as white-tailed eagles in the sky — best seen from the ship's observation decks and a panorama lounge. Your arctic train travels from Narvik to Katterat in Sweden, to the Northern Lights Basecamp, where you'll be able to look out for an aurora light shower while a campfire roars.

The details: Trips run from February and March 2024, from £3040 per person, including the full itinerary of activities, accommodation and full board. discover-the-world.com

An express trip to the white continent: Argentina to Antarctica cruise

On board Zodiac boats you will see seals and emperor penguins (Ultimate Travel Company)

Best for: Intrepid explorers and nature lovers.

The adventure: Many trips to the southernmost continent require sabbatical levels of leave, however a speedy solution is on offer from The Ultimate Travel Company. In just six days, its Express Air Cruise trip will see you sail from the most southerly city in the world, Ushuaia, Argentina to make your way to the remote island of Cape Horn and then to King George Island across icy dramatic waters. Your vessel, the Magellan Explorer, is a purpose-built cruiser, offering chic, modern rooms, a private gym and a glass-enclosed observation area to take in the views, with the chance to peep albatrosses, dolphins and whales.

When you reach the white continent you'll board a small Zodiac boat to get close enough to see a penguin colony. On land, explore research stations and take in stunning views of the Fildes Peninsular, before boarding a flight to Punta Arenas to make your journey home with a photo feed of scenes to rival Blue Planet.

The details: Trips run 11-16 January 2024, 23 - 28 November 2024 and 27 November - 6 December 2024, from £6,005 per person including return international flights with British Airways, two nights at Le Reve, Santiago and internal flights. theultimatetravelcompany.com

A Frozen meets Dracula experience: Romania

Transylvania's awe-inspiring Hotel of Ices has 10 igloo rooms (Ice Hotel)

Best for: Those who want a one-of-a-kind winter break.

Starting and ending in Bucharest, this week-long trip is a whistlestop tour around some of Romania's most picturesque medieval towns, delving into its folkloric history. There's a chance to see the famous Dracula Castle capped in snow and learn how to husky sled on the Harghita Mountains. And the piece de resistance: you'll spend your final night in Transylvania's awe-inspiring Hotel of Ice igloo rooms (hotelofice.ro) - reachable only by cable car. The unique digs offers all the fun of snowmobiling, sledging, and snow tubing as well as a unique four-course meal at an ice table.

The details: Trips run in January for seven-night for £719 per person, based on two people sharing. untravelledpaths.com

See Bran Castle aka the Dracula Castle sprinkled in snow (Untravelled Paths)

A magical mountain trip: Canadian Rockies

Best for: Travellers who'd prefer to see the views from the comfort of first class.

This epic train trip begins in Banff after a transfer from Calgary. You'll fast be transported into snowglobe-worthy alpine scenes, but first you'll have the chance to relax in Banff's hot springs and to scale the Sulphur Mountain on a gondola to get a higher vantage point over the stunning views. Then when you board your carriage, you'll ride past lush conifer groves, icy lakes and imposing mountain peaks on the way to Jasper and then Vancouver - a leg of the journey which isn't accessible by cars. The cross country train has yesteryear charm and several class options.

A stop off in Jasper and a trip to its National Park gives passengers the chance to spot moose, elk, deer and lynx among the snow. And after free time in Vancouver, the trip culminates with a flight to the remote Whitehorse, the capital of Yukon at Southern Lakes Resort. Here you'll be taken on a snowshoe nature tour to get acquainted with local flora and fauna and take in the serene surrounds. Spending three nights here in a cabin, you'll have ample opportunity to spot the Northern Lights.

The details: Ten days from $3,791 (£3120.24) per person. vacationsbyrail.com

The Northern Lights seen from Jasper (Shutterstock)

Luxury woodland glamping: Aurora Safari Camp, Sweden 

Best for: Groups of adventurous friends or families.

Founded by photographer Fredrik Broman and safari specialist Jonas Gejke, this isn't your average glamping experience. Which will come as a relief given the freezing conditions. Now ten years old, the design is based on hidden Kenyan bush camps (where the couple met), but is Arctic-ready. The camp is positioned next to the Lake Degerselet, which is part of the Råne Rive and freezes in winter, surrounded by seemingly endless forest and sky.

A personal host can offer you and your group a tailored schedule of activities, and you have access to the saunas (one is enchantingly positioned on the frozen lake with an ice pool), as well as being able to borrow fatbikes, kicksleds, snowshoes and Nordic skis to make the most the idyllic landscape. By night warm up by the open fire on the dining area veranda as you overlook the lake and enjoy hearty meals cooked by your hosts. Choose from cosy tipis heated by pellet fire or the cone rooms with panoramic views through the glass roof, to see you guessed it: Auroras.

The details: Winter prices starting from: 17700SEK (£1,308) per night, based on two sharing, all meals inclusive. Fly to Luleå via Stockholm - tansfers can be arranged by the camp. aurorasafaris.com

A polar adventure: Écrins National Park, France

The snow-covered majestic mountains of Pays des Écrins National Park (Rogier Vrijn)

Best for: Back to nature lovers and those searching for a short-haul winter adventure.

A three-night trip at the majestic mountains of Pays des Écrins National Park is a short and sweet opportunity for a polar adventure in Europe. A day and night trail offers the chance to immerse yourself in the mountains, with a back to basics experience led by an expert guide, teaching you how to recognise animal tracks and make fire. On day two, snowshoe to the pastures of Laus hut and take in the mammoth Mont Pelvoux. You might even be lucky enough to spot a chamois or two, before settling under a tipi in the middle of the mountains for a fondue night. The final night is for star gazing under the celestial vault.

Inbetween adventuring, there's the opportunity to book in a trip to the Igloo Pelvoo to see giant, majestic ice sculptures (€4.5 (£4) per person), try a dog sled trip (€65 (£56) per person), or book into a Nordic hot and cold water therapy to liven the senses, or visit the hammam and sauna for a more seddate wellbeing experience (€13 (£11) per person).

The details: An all-inclusive three-day stay starts from €197 (£171) per person based on four sharing an apartment. paysdesecrins.com

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