Slovenia has scarcely looked back since breaking from Yugoslavia in 1991 and embracing the European Union in 2004. It may not be the biggest country in Europe – it is similar size to Wales and the US state of Massachusetts – but it packs a hefty punch, well deserving the ‘Europe in Miniature’ praises. Whether you want to city slick or disappear into the mountains, lose yourself in the vineyards, or on the beach, Slovenia is well set up for you.
Handily this gloriously green oasis also offers superb food and drink, as well as an increasingly excellent range of accommodation. Quality is a constant in a country where organic produce is often a given rather than a luxury. Slovenia serves up Michelin gastronomy that makes the most of its world-class produce, with plush hotels now to match in a country that is both a breeze and a pleasure to travel around. With improved transport connections into the country there has never been a better time to visit.
1. Ljubljana
Everyone loves Ljubljana. This wonderful city on the Ljubljanica River has beguiled everyone from the Romans to the Austrians, with influences from Italy, Hungary, Austria and the Balkans all intriguingly interweaving in a rich urban tapestry spread across the pedestrian-friendly, compact centre. Ljubljana offers a greatest hits of European architecture, with a food and drink scene that is similarly eclectic. This European Green Capital is swathed in green spaces and riverside walks, a city on a very human scale. The bountiful museums and galleries back up a rich cultural scene that is thrillingly fuelled by the large local student population. It’s easy to see why Ljubljana has emerged in recent years as a popular city break destination and a great base for exploring the country on multiple day trips. Give as much time to the capital as you can. Whether you come in summer during its famous festival, or in winter for the Christmas markets, there is no bad time to visit Ljubljana.
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2. Slovenia’s other Cities
Savvy travellers these days push beyond Ljubljana. The second city of Maribor is no longer content to play second fiddle. Maribor’s grand old town ripples down to the Drava River and is awash with welcoming eating and drinking venues, as well as museums and galleries. It’s a case of look but don’t touch with the world’s oldest vine though. Nearby Celje is an ideal companion, a city crowned with a hulking castle and a fairytale old town of its own. Kranj is similarly close to Ljubljana and is essential for anyone interested in Slovenia’s national poet, France Preseren. You can visit the house where the author of the national anthem stayed up until this death in 1849, now a museum. Sweeping south we hit the coast with Koper. Slovenia’s main port dominates proceedings, but is backed up by a bijou Venetian old town that compels as much as the nearby beaches. Nova Gorica meanwhile has been designated a European Capital of Culture this year, so it is the ideal time to visit this underrated city right on the border with Italy. As a planned modern urban environment Nova Gorica feels totally different to the other deeply historic Slovenian cities listed here.
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3. Alpine Slovenia
Slovenian’s mountains are truly epic – we’re talking a wildscape of jagged peaks and rugged ridges with over 10,000km of mountain trails. Bled and its famous lake grab much of the Alpine headlines, its pristine lake topped with a wee island-studded church and framed by a vaulting castle and a sweeping backdrop of mountains. There is real strength in depth to Alpine Slovenia though. Lake Bled – along with equally pretty neighbour Lake Bohinj – lie within the remarkable Julian Alps, much of it protected by the Triglav National Park. Kranjska Gora is the main mountain sports resort in the region, with great skiing and snowboarding in winter; hiking and biking in summer. Travellers venturing beyond the Julian Alps savour the delights of the soaring Kamnik-Savinja Alps in the north and the Pohorje Hills. The Logar Valley in the former is up there with anywhere in the Julian Alps, its deep emerald tree-kissed valley floor rising to meet an impossibly pretty cinematic showreel of snowcapped mountains.
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4. Soca Valley
The strikingly blue Soca River surges for almost 140km south from the Julian Alps in search of the Adriatic. En route it sweeps through a dramatic natural amphitheatre of mountains, wild gorges and tree-shrouded valleys. It was the challenging setting for some of the most horrific fighting of World War One. Writer Ernest Hemingway was injured here in Kobarid, where an award-winning museum delves deep into the conflict. One of the world’s best chefs, Ana Ros, tempts Italian foodies across the border here with her three Michelin star restaurant in Kobarid too. As the Soca gurgles through rapids and over waterfalls it also draws whitewater thrill seekers with some of Europe’s best whitewater rafting and kayaking. The well-equipped resort town of Bovec is the heart of the adrenaline pumping action. There is canyoning and bungee jumping too, while the delicious Soca Trout is reason enough to visit too.
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5. Karst and Coast
Piran is the undoubted star of the compact Slovenian coast and it has all the drama of the more famous Croatian historic resort towns next door. The campanile of St George’s Church gazes longingly back across the Adriatic towards its Venetian creators. Sift through the wee art galleries, take a dip in the sea and savour sunset from a waterfront seafood restaurant. Izola echoes some of the romantic architecture of Piran on a smaller scale and is worth visiting if you’ve been to Piran before. More good seafood restaurants await. If it’s a flashy, brash resort you crave head further south to the popular resort of Portoroz. There are hotels, casinos, marinas and everything else you need for a party break. The Secovlje Salt Pans are worth delving into before heading inland into the Karst to the limestone wonders of the world-renowned Postojna Cave and UNESCO World Heritage listed Skocjan Caves. Wine connoisseurs love both the vintages and the prices in the picturesque Goriska Brda hills, with orange roof tiled villages and towns atmospheric tasting settings. They also fall for the lush Vipava Valley, with more world-class vineyards in a country rapidly making a name for itself in the world of wine.
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