Autumn, for many, is the season our wardrobes can truly shine. Trusty trench coats come out in all colours, thick, chunky knits are layered onto every look, and there’s no short supply of chic accessories to elevate any outfit – think kitten heels, double-strap belts and statement scarves, to name but a few. Plus, the season starts with four weeks of fashion shows, so there’s plenty of outfit inspiration to hand both on the runway and off of it through striking street style snaps.
However, as the fashion calendar works six months in advance, it’s the February shows that are the most important right now. It was here we saw the autumn/winter 24 collections that set the trends for this season: sheer fabrics, shaggy coats and chic capes included. Yet one material reigned supreme as the autumn-ready option to turn to: leather. And each luxury label gave a lesson on how to style it for the new season.
Fendi, Chloé and Gucci went thigh-high with over-the-knee boots; Miu Miu, Khaite and Victoria Beckham added chic cropped leather jackets, and JW Anderson, Isabel Marant and Dilara Findikogul hiked up hemlines with leather short shorts and micro mini skirts. Plus, there was no shortage of statement shades with attention-grabbing trench coats and dresses walking down the runways of Bottega Veneta, Gucci and Proenza Schouler.
As a fashion editor sat at the shows, these were the five leather styling lessons I bookmarked to weave into my own wardrobe this season, and I encourage you to do the same, no matter if you’re investing in real leather or prefer to lean into leather-like looks. After all, as the weather starts to cool, it’s one of the most practical styles to step into.
THE CROPPED LEATHER JACKET
Leather jackets have long been a wardrobe staple. In fact, they’re synonymous with many a great movie character: Kill Bill, Terminator and Grease’s T-Birds, to list only a handful. Yet, this season, the shorter, the better, seems to be the message when creating the coats. Miu Miu shrunk down the body and sleeves of a sleek double-breasted style; Khaite exaggerated the shoulders while raising the length up to the ribs, and Victoria Beckham sent a hip-bearing belted biker down the runway, creating an exaggerated collar with the excess fabric. This cropped shape only helps to emphasise the waist, adding extra shape to each look while allowing whatever you’re wearing underneath to also be seen, no matter if you opt for a bomber, biker or blazer style.
MICRO LEATHER LENGTHS
While leather is known to be a warming fabric, it also looks incredibly striking in shrunken-down proportions. Making a case for micro leather lengths was JW Anderson with khaki and cream colour-blocked shorts, Isabel Marant’s red statement-making mini skirt and Dilara Findikogul’s lace-up hot pants that certainly commanded a lot of attention on the runway. So, while hiking up leather hemlines may not be the most practical of picks, it certainly does make for an eye-catching outfit. Plus, it offers a solution to autumn's tumultuous temperatures. When styling thigh-high hemlines, JW Anderson and Isabel Marant both opted for more modest tops, whether it be an oversized jumper or coordinating coat to balance out the full-leg look, while Dilara Findikogul stayed within the skin-baring space. So, the route you choose all comes down to personal preference.
THE LOUD LEATHER TRENCH COAT
Trench coats are a key piece of outerwear, and there’s no short supply of the style on any autumn/winter runway. However, the season, Bottega Veneta, Gucci and Stine Goya all made a case for leather-made options and, most notably, in bright and bold shades. Goya’s red leather trench sold out in some sizes almost immediately, Bottega Veneta followed suit with a similar shade, and Gucci’s forest green colour coordinated with leather hotpants – another key piece from the leather looks this season. So, instead of using cosy coats solely for warmth, the autumn/winter runways proved their importance and ease in making a styling statement, so long as you don’t shy away from colour.
OVER-THE-KNEE BOOTS
Knee-high boots have long been a favourite shoe style for autumn, effortlessly elevating any outfit while adding extra warmth to skirts, dresses and, in more recent trends, shorts. Yet, this season, the runway went one step further with the long boots, bringing them up and over the knee to thigh-high lengths. Chemena Kamali put them front and centre at Chloé, tucking boho-style dresses into the shoes. Silvia Venturini Fendi sent long yellow leather options down the Fendi runway, clashing against a deep green colour, and Sabato De Sarno stuck to like-navy shades pairing over-the-knee leather boots with high hemlined hotpants. So, it’s time to go above and beyond our favourite beloved knee-high pairs and opt for styles with extra length, whether paired with loose-fitting dresses, micro mini skirts or chic short shorts.
THE STATEMENT LEATHER DRESS
Just as we saw with the trench coats, leather dresses also got a bright and bold upgrade on this season’s runways. Bally opted for a beautiful blue, Gabriela Hearst went for gold, and Proenza Schouler followed suit with the effortlessly elevated shade. All of which were styled with minimalist black shoes and accessories, allowing the dress to take centre stage. Finding similar styles off of the runway, however, is no easy feat as swathes of black and brown leather dresses still prove most popular on the high street. So, it certainly takes some searching or an investment in a runway style to recreate this look. Although, as with all leather items, they’re sure to last an incredibly long time in any wardrobe and beyond.
