The Hot Chat
Nope, not the salacious goss you were hoping for (sorry) but quite literally endless talking about the heat/humidity/rain. ‘Normally everyone comes in September and is like “New York is so nice”,’ said Michael Kors. ‘Not this time’.
The Guests
What with those strikes, maybe the A list have more time on their hands at the moment, but this was a particularly starry fashion week. Some of the best spots? Pamela Anderson at Proenza Schouler. Jodie Turner Smith and Joshua Jackson at COS. Halle Berry at Michael Kors. Laura Dern at Gabriela Hearst. Diane Keaton and Julianne Moore at Ralph Lauren. JLO at Ralph and Coach. But the one that got people acting very uncool? Martha Stewart, who RSVP’d yes to both the Rimowa party and Veronica Beard dinners.
Flats (Or Tiddly Heels) with Everything
Especially with eveningwear (see Altuzarra, Tory Burch, Brandon Maxwell, Gabriela Hearst, Phillip Lim). Also trending off the catwalk, ballet flats and Mary Janes are doing big business on the street style circuit.
Debuts and Comebacks
Anticipation was high for Peter Do’s Helmut Lang debut, a role he threw himself into with both conscientious studiousness and full-love fandom. Making a comeback on the schedule for SS24, 3.1 Phillip Lim and Ralph Lauren. They’ve both been missed.
Getting Buzz
Do wasn’t the only one making his debut. Diotima was the name on everyone’s lips; designer Rachel Scott made her NYFW debut with a collection including her excellent crocheting. Pivoting from appointments to a show, ultra-luxe, meticulously-minimal brand Fforme is a totally different mood. Still exciting though.
Party On
Some excellent after-hours action including the Rimowa exhibition opening (Spike Lee, Justin Theroux, Jenna Lyons, Skepta, and more more more all in attendance), the Zara x Steven Meisel capsule launch, the Helmut Lang after party. The one that got most raucous*? The Ssense rave celebrating the launch of the new Jean Paul Gaultier x KNWLS capsule.
*We are told, some people have to work.
White Hot
High maintenance head-to-toe white is breaking free of its 1% connotations. As seen, well, literally everywhere. Expect to see a lot more of your drycleaner.
Jazzy Jeans
Blue jeans are as American as cherry pie and healthcare bills. This season they are invested with centre stage energy, in ombré at Dion Lee, metallic finishes at Eckhaus Latta and spray painted at Anna Sui. Ralph Lauren’s blue jeans were elevated with couture grade craftsmanship.
Golden Moment
Christy Turlington closing Ralph Lauren. No explanation required.
Cool Girl Sparkle
Now Jenna Lyons is a Housewife, all bets are off when it comes to razzle dazzle. So, sequins, shimmer and sparkle are given a more minimal sensibility. See the oversized crystals at Phillip Lim, the pared-back glinting at Gabriela Hearst, Proenza Schouler’s smashed glass embellishment and the lean, ritzy knits at COS.
Scammer To Planner
One imagines that Anna Delvey – who opened her East Village apartment to co-host newcomer Shao’s show – is better than most at spotting a gate crasher.
Best Bow?
It’s a tie between Peter Do hugging his mum and Gabriela Hearst full on bouncing down the runway to hug a dear friend. And you thought fashion people are standoffish. All together now; awwwww.
The Naked Dress Is Still Around
Good news, exhibitionists, you can continue to bare (almost) all for SS24 in dresses made from tissue-fine chiffon, open-work lace, fishnet, crinkle fabrics and loose-weave knits.
