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Tassie treat or bogan bread? The secret delights of savoury toast

Tasmanian cook Angela Wilson says eating savoury toast is a quintessential Tasmanian experience. (ABC News: Selina Ross)

A Tasmanian toasty treat could be hitting the world stage, after catching the eye of chef Nigella Lawson.

Tassie toast advocate Angela Wilson was chatting on ABC Radio Hobart about the joys of savoury toast when a friend decided it was time to loop self-titled domestic goddess and comfort-food queen Nigella Lawson into the secret.

"Is it time for Nigella Lawson to get a briefing from Ange Wilson on the merits of Tasmanian savoury toast?" the man known as Oxy Moron tweeted.

To his surprise, the world-famous chef and food-writer replied: "Tell me more!"

Ms Wilson, a communications adviser turned Tassie tucker touter, replied to the tweet immediately, with a picture of her favourite snack.

Tasmanian home cook Angela Wilson offered to make savoury toast for celebrity chef Nigella Lawson after she took an interest in the recipe on Twitter. (Supplied: Angela Wilson)

"Hi Nigella! It's a traditional recipe from Tasmania … sliced bread with a mixture of beaten egg, grated cheese, chopped bacon, Worcestershire sauce, tomato sauce, salt and pepper, cooked in a moderate oven."

Angela Wilson says savoury toast is one of her favourite comfort foods. (ABC News: Selina Ross)

A quintessential Tasmanian experience

Ms Wilson says eating savoury toast is a quintessential Tasmanian experience and remains one of her favourite childhood memories.

"It was a ubiquitous part of life growing up; I don't remember the first time I had it because it was something that was everywhere and a very normal part of life — everything from a Sunday snack to a spread at a party," she said.

Combine the egg, cheese, bacon and other ingredients in a bowl. (ABC News: Selina Ross)

Ms Wilson believes the humble Tasmanian comfort food hails from the north-west coast of Tasmania.

"I'm a Devonport girl, but my Nan, who's 96 and lives by herself in Ulverstone, still makes it for herself," Ms Wilson told ABC Radio Hobart.

Bake the savoury toast in the oven for approximately 20 minutes at 180 degrees Celsius. (ABC News: Selina Ross)

But is savoury toast really Tasmanian?

The Australian Worker paper in 1942 suggested making a mixture from boiled carrots to spread over toast, topped with parsley. (Source: https://trove.nla.gov.au/newspaper/article/146235318)

Recipes for savoury toast vary and can be found in early copies of Australian newspapers and women's magazines across the country.

The earliest reference to savoury toast can be found on April 29, 1865 in the Australasian Post weekly periodical in the Ladies Column, which featured fashion and recipes.

It also appeared in NSW Riverina publication the Narandera Argus in 1908, WA paper The Pingelly Leader in 1920, and Victoria's Evelyn Observer and Bourke East Record in 1913. Some recipes are the same; some have variations.

During World War II, when access to meat was difficult, a vegetarian version appeared in The Australian Worker, a newspaper produced in Sydney for the Australian Workers' Union in July 1942, next to the wartime housekeeping column.

The Launceston Examiner recipe from 1885 did not contain eggs. (Source: https://trove.nla.gov.au/newspaper/article/38297153)

It appeared in Tasmanian paper the Launceston Examiner, as early as March 14, 1885. 

But while savoury toast recipes were evident in papers around the country, it seems only Tasmania has adopted the snack with such gusto. 

Tassie treat … or bogan bread?

Julian O'Brien, a Tasmanian journalist who is now editor of the Illawarra Mercury in Wollongong, NSW, strongly associates eating savoury toast with his Tasmanian childhood.

"Growing up it was a staple of every good cafe or bakery, particularly around Devonport," Mr O'Brien said.

"Even as I became a parent later in life my cafe or bakery choice would be guided by the quality of savoury toast on offer.

During COVID lockdown last year, Mr O'Brien was on a zoom call discussing what food people were craving when he realised none of his mainland colleagues had heard of savoury toast.

Newspaper editor and Tasmanian ex-pat Julian O'Brien was craving savoury toast as comfort food when he was in COVID lockdown. (Supplied: Julian O'Brien)

"The blank looks and silence told me everything I needed to know," he said.

So he decided to share his recipe and memories of the snack with the readers of the Illawarra Mercury in a column.

"When we shared it with readers, there were only a few who knew of it and it got some interesting comments — the best of which described it as 'drunk food' or 'bogan bread', both of which are probably totally applicable," Mr O'Brien laughed.

A savoury toast by any other name …

Not to be confused with Welsh rarebit, which involves cooking a cheesy sauce always containing stout, ale or beer and serving it over toast, savoury toast has been known by various names in Tasmanian cookbooks over the years.

Home economics teachers Janelle Scott and Ena Rigney with the Central Cookery book. (ABC News: Jessica Moran)

The best-selling Central Cookery Book by Alice Christina Irvine was first published in 1930 and has a recipe for savoury toast listed as 'Cheese devils'.

The text was a staple in Tasmanian households and domestic science classes in schools, where savoury toast is still being taught today.

"We put sauce, ham, diced pineapple and a slice of cheese on top.

"Now I make it for my 12-year-old daughter and she loves it."

Savoury toast appeared as 'Bacon slices' in the Country Women's Association in Tasmania 21st birthday Cookery Book from 1957 and the 1976 Esk Valley Cookery Book – Treasured recipes of the Countrywomen of the Esk Valley (in Northern Tasmania) contains a recipe for 'Cheese and bacon savouries', which it says are "Nice for suppers or Sunday night tea round the fire".

The Esk Valley Cookbook of 1976 recipe calls for four slices of stale bread, one egg, one cup of grated cheese, and two rashers of bacon. (Supplied: Sally Wise)

A quick and easy snack

Tasmanian chef, author, and mother of six, Sally Wise, says the recipe has been in her family for generations and is part of the Tasmanian culinary landscape.

Tasmanian cookbook author Sally Wise says savoury toast has been around for generations in various iterations. (Facebook: Sally Wise)

She included her version of savoury toast in her cookbook Leftover makeovers.

"Growing up with country picnics, CWA events, and grandmothers' afternoon teas there was always savoury toast," Ms Wise said.

Ms Wise says the treat is popular because it is quick and easy, and an excellent way of using up leftovers, like bits of ham or bacon and stale bread.

She says the beauty of savoury toast is how easy it is to make it your own, by adding or removing various ingredients. 

"It was also a sneaky way to get my kids to eat parsley," she said.

The most Tasmanian food?

So is savoury toast the most Tasmanian food?

A recent post on ABC Radio Hobart's Facebook page attracted more than 3,000 comments with curried scallops, scallop pies and pink eye potatoes being among the top contenders, with crayfish and local apples and raspberries not far behind.

From a Tasmanian Aboriginal perspective, muttonbirds, or short-tailed shearwaters, are one of the first things that comes to mind.

Tasmanian Aboriginal people have harvested yula (muttonbirds) and their eggs for generations, in what's been widely recognised as an important cultural practice.

Mutton birds (yula) and Tasmanian edible plant, saltbush, with a blue gum honey glaze, is a popular dish at Tasmanian Aboriginal food business, Palawa Kipli. (Supplied: Kitana Mansell)

Kitana Mansell from Tasmanian Aboriginal catering company, Palawa Kipli, says the most Tasmanian food is Tasmanian Aboriginal food.

A global phenomenon?

But while Tasmanians clearly love their savoury toast, will Nigella Lawson's endorsement turn it into a global phenomenon?

Tassie's own domestic goddess Angela Wilson said she was thrilled a special part of Tasmanian north-west coast history had reached a global audience.

"I think that's about as high a praise as you can get," Ms Wilson said. 

She's hoping the celebrity chef will take her up on her offer to make it for her if she comes to visit. 

But Tasmanian ex-pat journalist Julian O'Brien is not so sure.

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